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Old 06-08-2016, 01:13 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Tips, Mods and Upgrades

They are great mini copters, but the manual that comes with them gives no guidance and is confussing if you translate to what the manufacturer is trying to explain.
So here are some tricks, Mods and Upgrades to make them work as they are intended

This are my personal findings:

K110 and 120 share same head, to make the 120 lighter use 110 head and swashplate.
Blades are different size.
V977 and 110 are the same except board and ESC?.
You can upgrade 110 with SUT tail motor and 120 tail blade or just 120 tail blade and will hold better.
There should be no slop on blade grips otherwise it will with mess the gyro, shim out any slop but making the grips move freely and grease those dampeners.
Be carefull when buying dog bones links as some of them the holes are facing the same side.
Replace battery and ESC ends, lossi, for JST, have more grip and better connection.
Get some fiberglass cloth for when you break one of the tabs on your landing gear, cut some and use CA glue, no need to replace the landing gear, pic attached.
I been using kbdd pilots choice blades on my 110, they don't flex as stock and holds better if on 3D.
Haven't upgrade blades on 120, but Trex 150?
Batteries
HK, turnigy nanotech.
120: https://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/...dproduct=59261
You have to trim out the plastic of the pack case otherwise will get stuck on gear, pic attached.
110: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...QX_120SR_.html
or graphene.
For HCP100S:
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...Lipo_Pack.html

If main gear slips out on your 110 use some hot glue to hold it in place.
Motor fin broke off? Use zip tie

Great helis!

Will post about stock radio later on.

Or post your findings
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Last edited by rdlohr; 07-25-2016 at 12:37 PM.. Reason: merge tip thread
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Old 06-09-2016, 10:08 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by salrica View Post
V977 and 110 are the same except board and ESC?.
The tail motor is different. The 977 has a .7mm shaft, the 110 has a 1mm shaft.

If you buy the giant spares kit for the v977, you will have to either swap the tail motor or drill out the spare tail blades.
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Old 06-09-2016, 12:06 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Jweber,
I don't own a v977, but I know parts are cheaper if you order 977 for your 110.

Forgot a few upgrades for K110, a 9T pinion
http://www.banggood.com/Walkera-CP-N...T-p-78633.html

Hcp80 main gear (fits110)
http://www.banggood.com/Hisky-HCP80-...-p-967283.html

Tail motor holder
http://www.banggood.com/Tail-Motor-M...-p-936293.html

Solid carbon boom
http://www.banggood.com/WLtoys-V966-...-p-935034.html

SUT motor
http://m.banggood.com/SUT-Tail-Power...-p-939172.html

Main blades
http://www.ebay.com/itm/KBDD-Blade-M...YAAOSw54xUVbcl
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Old 06-30-2016, 10:33 PM   #4 (permalink)
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HCP 100S- I've been using the main gear from a MCPX on my HCP 100S and it has held up better than the stock one.
The stock green bullets blades work best for me, no shakes!
Definitely use the nanotech 300mah batteries!
"O" ring the links on the head.
Rubber band the skids.
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Old 07-14-2016, 05:50 AM   #5 (permalink)
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OK, very new to this heli - but here are my findings so far with the XK K110:

************************* Should I get one? *************************

Value for money:
Price wise this is unbeatable. Way way less expensive than for instance a Blade micro.

Where to buy:
www.banggod.com - lowest price I've found. Free shipping. Slow expedition and long shipping times. Lots of promos, coupons, points etc making it even cheaper.
www.gearbest.com - bit higher price vs banggood, but not always. Same as to shipping and expedition.
www.ebay.com - no experience for XK stuff. Seems to be free shipping there also. Sent from China or Hong Kong.

I'd advise to buy the RFT version + a BNF heli + some parts. Then you're covered for a while

How big is it? (rude question, I know)



Compared to a Blade mCPx and a nCPx. Clearly it's similar in size to the first gen mCPx. But it's a very low profile design.

Performance:
More stable than a Nano or mCPx. Very good piro comp (which neither the n or mCPx had). Already brushless main motor - very big plus! The main brushed motors of the n and mCPx were their weakest points.

Easy to work on:
Pretty straightforward construction. Not as tiny as a Nano. Few part counts. Only thing a bit fiddly is soldering on those tiny wires. Not something you must do, but it will save costs. You need a proper soldering station, helping hands and a lamp with magnifying glass.



Coming from years with the n and mCPX, which gave me tons of fun & learning, it's a very good step forward in all respects. Definately a well worth investment!

Then there's other options as to which heli to buy:
Blade Nano, 1S 150mAh, 29 grams, 2x brushed - main motor is short lived
WLtoys v977 Power Star X1, 1S 450mAh, 49grams, BL+brushed, G7 TX
XK K110, 1S 450mAh, 59grams, BL+brushed, Futaba or X6 TX (good)
XK K120, 2S 300mAh, 78grams, BL+brushed, Futaba or X6 TX (good)
HiSky HPC100S, 2S 450mAh, 79grams, 2xBL, very powerful, X6-S TX, DSM sat supported (Spektrum)

Supposedly the K110 is the most stable. The HCP100 is said to be not so stable, but it might be cured in the S version. The v977 is basically the same heli as the K110. The X6 transmitter looks better and is supposed to be a bit better than the G7.

Packaging:
The RTF version comes in a suberb box - which contains a box for the TX, a box for the heli and a box for the parts. Sturdy boxes - perfect for keeping all your stuff in one place. And great for taking on travel!

Manual:
This is a big joke, even worse than google translate. But with the help of HF and YouTube you'll figure it out easily.


************************* Tips & tricks *************************

Tail boom:
This is hollow and can break, just like it was with the nCPX and mCPX. I've ordered this solid tail booms - made for the v977 (have not measured if it's the same size but I took the chance):
http://www.banggood.com/WLtoys-V966-...-p-935034.html

If it's a not-fit, please let us know. And if other options exist please do link.

You then need to put the wires on the outside (twist around is a good way), and hold them in place with heatshrink.



Tail motor mount:
I de-soldered and re-soldered the tail motor to the long copper wires. So that I could tread the wires through the back hole of the mount. This makes it easy when replacing the motor mount or the boom.

To hold the motor and wires in place I use this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/361551678849...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
-the white one turns transparent when dry. Easy to peel off yet provides good hold.



Canopy:
-CA glue around the grommets on the inside. Reinforces the canopy and keeps the grommets in place.
-Canopy can be repaired from tears with glass fibre reinforced tape.

Not enough pitch:
First put the stick in middle position and manually adjust the links so that the blades when facing backwards are parallel. Make also sure the swash is level.

Then adust the pitch curve in the X6 TX. It's not very logical, but by increasing the max and min value. Plus "following with suitable steps for those inbetween" you will get the positive and negative pitch you're after. Look at the blades facing backwards. The "<" gap tells how much pitch you have, and that's it's equal as to pos and neg. Upon flying you can fine adjust - after all the "felt" pitch is what matters. If the tail blows out you've added more than it can handle.

Push main gear into place:
No matter how you crash, this is always pushed out. So always after a crash push it firmly back into place.

SHYs canopy pin mod:
https://www.helifreak.com/showthread...=455520&page=5
-see post #98

How to straighten feathering shaft:
Blade Nano: How to straighten bent feathering shaft easily (2 min 0 sec)


How to better avoid tail blow out (no need to do if you don't have problems):
Try a V-curve in the throttle curve settings instead of a flat curve.

Keep it light
Any heli flies better with low disc loading, and it's even more true for micros. So I'd stick to the stock, light plastic parts. Plastic also has some give which will absorb energy in a crash.

Good luck!
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Last edited by SHYguy; 07-14-2016 at 04:23 PM..
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Old 07-14-2016, 06:00 AM   #6 (permalink)
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A trick may be running this kind of battery in the K110. Pick your own brand. It is the same physical dimensions but provides 600maH. An adapter cable is required --> JST to K110. I will edit this once I figure out what the K110 connector name is.
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Old 07-14-2016, 07:04 AM   #7 (permalink)
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+1 on the idea

There is now a separate forum for the V977 and XK series helis. This should go there.
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Old 07-14-2016, 07:15 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Big: Align 700E. DX8, Phoenix, Lynx Team Pilot

Last edited by SHYguy; 07-25-2016 at 01:42 PM.. Reason: treads are now moved & merged
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Old 07-14-2016, 07:19 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SHYguy View Post
Thx! I did look for this before, and did it again now... but I can't find it

Link please?
https://www.helifreak.com/forumdisplay.php?f=463

Last edited by rdlohr; 07-20-2016 at 06:37 PM..
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Old 07-14-2016, 07:24 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Default Tips and tricks for v977/K120 and TX

Cheers
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Big: Align 700E. DX8, Phoenix, Lynx Team Pilot

Last edited by rdlohr; 07-20-2016 at 06:43 PM..
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Old 07-19-2016, 01:56 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Default Canopy pin mod

OK, I broke both my front pins after not that many crashes on soft grass.

The front ones are part of the frame, so bit of a job to replace the whole frame and unmount/mount all the components. Also I wanted to keep the soft double sided mount of the receiver/FBL unit. The frame is cheap though as it's less than 3 bucks.

The rear one is easy, just 2 screws and less than 2 bucks:


OK, so this is what I did:

1) Cut the remaining pins in the front all flush.
2) Drill first a 1mm hole from each side. Such a small drill is hard to fasten in a drill machine, so I used a Dremel. Make sure it's in the middle of the little material there is = slightly above the original pin mount.
3) Drill the same hole up to 1,5 mm. After you have a hole on each side you also drill all the way through, as there is material in the middle of the frame as well, which is good for rigidity.
4) Cut a 1,5mm carbon rod with a Dremel and cutting disc, round the edges. Always wear protective goggles when dremeling!







Now in a crash the rod will just be pushed out, so you simply push it back into place. Great way of absorbing energy! And if it eventually breaks you simple make a new one.

Hope this can be of use, good luck!

(There's also the tip on my previous post - where you "pre-cut" the pins and re-join them with heatshrink. That's of course the most safe and cost effective way. And easier to do.)

Comments are always welcome!
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Big: Align 700E. DX8, Phoenix, Lynx Team Pilot

Last edited by SHYguy; 07-20-2016 at 06:06 AM..
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Old 07-19-2016, 01:59 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Default Removing slop in the swash ball links

There's some slop. And the front one has a tendency of being pushed off it's ball. I just added 3x small O-rings:

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Old 07-20-2016, 06:06 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Come on guys - I know more of you have good tips! Let's see them!

And anybody know an admin we can ask to consolidate and make a few stickes?
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Old 07-25-2016, 01:03 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Default Walkera V120 motor in a V977.

Looking for more power, I put a motor from a Walkera V120D02S in a V977 (part number WK-WS-15-001). It's wider than the stock motor but the same height and has the same mounting hole positions and thread size so it fit's without much fuss. I used a stock 10 tooth V977 pinion.

I've got 10 packs thru it alternating flights between it and a stock V977. The power seems only slightly improved. It was hard to really tell a lot of difference except doing tic tocs. They were a little easier. Also, the new motor tended to cause more tail kick on some stunts, so it must be providing at least a little more punch. The V120 motor is a couple of years old, so a new one might be slightly better. Also, I didn't have the right pinions to experiment around with to help out the performance. It must be a .5 mod, but I only have selections in .3 and .4 mod pinions.

After the flights the V120 motor was very cool and the ESC and front of the frame was very hot. It might need a better ESC to get more power from this motor.

Conclusion: Don't rush out and buy the motor, but If you need to replace your motor it might be worth the extra $4. Maybe if a better ESC or better gearing can be found it would do better. I'm hoping to see some other people's results.

For the tests I used V931 blades (big help) and graphene batteries with about 20 cycles on them. I had a SUT tail motor on the V120 based V977, so a K110 motor might really help on this setup.

V120D02S motor: http://www.banggood.com/Wholesale-Walkera-New-V120D02S-Spare-Parts-Brushless-Motor-WK-WS-15-001-HM-V120D02S-Z-23-p-50000.html
-
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Old 07-25-2016, 01:50 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Yes I agree, let me see what I can do
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Old 07-25-2016, 01:54 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Graphene battery - Hobbyking?
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Old 07-25-2016, 02:34 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Yes, HobbyKing 600mah graphene.
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Old 07-25-2016, 02:38 AM   #18 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BirdBarber View Post
Yes, HobbyKing 600mah graphene.
Weight?
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Old 07-25-2016, 08:32 AM   #19 (permalink)
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Weighed three HK graphenes: 14.7gr 14.9gr 15.0gr
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Old 07-25-2016, 01:36 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Talking Thx!

Big thank you to Rick Lohr who stickied and merged some treads for us in a jiffy. Awesome guy with awesome products!
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