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Old 11-24-2016, 07:00 PM   #101 (permalink)
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Default Canopy grommets?

Does anyone know where I can order canopy grommets? Or if grommets from other micros will fit?
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Old 11-25-2016, 07:28 AM   #102 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by torpicaltrail View Post
Does anyone know where I can order canopy grommets? Or if grommets from other micros will fit?
Same here, I lost a couple of grommets and would like to know if I can order some spare.
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Old 11-25-2016, 07:53 PM   #103 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Codepox View Post
Same here, I lost a couple of grommets and would like to know if I can order some spare.
Blade nano cpx, 3 times more than k110
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Old 11-25-2016, 09:34 PM   #104 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by torpicaltrail View Post
Does anyone know where I can order canopy grommets? Or if grommets from other micros will fit?
You really only need the two at the back of the canopy, not the front ones. I don't even fly with them in and have no problems. If you have only two left, then you're still good to go.

You can put a tiny drop of CA on the outside edge of them to help keep them in place as well.
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Old 12-06-2016, 12:10 AM   #105 (permalink)
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Default Stripped Blade Grip fix

If your XK or WL has a stripped blade grip screw hole and it's not too bad, you can put a piece of thread thru the hole, tighten the screw then cut off the excess thread. If it's really bad you may need to double the thread or use dental floss. Only the screw threads opposite the piece of thread will bite in, but that beats no bite at all.
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Last edited by BirdBarber; 12-06-2016 at 03:24 AM..
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Old 12-06-2016, 01:01 AM   #106 (permalink)
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Default Xk k120 main gear and comparison to hcp100s

Hi all,
Did any of you try the hcp80 main gear on a k120 and experience better results than the stock gear?
And... Is the hcp100s really more powerful than k120? Any chance to bind it to the xk6 transmitter?
Thank you!!
Max
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Old 12-07-2016, 03:11 AM   #107 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Max olivier View Post
Hi all,
Did any of you try the hcp80 main gear on a k120 and experience better results than the stock gear?
And... Is the hcp100s really more powerful than k120? Any chance to bind it to the xk6 transmitter?
Thank you!!
Max
It fits but it doesn't have the set screw to keep gear from slipping out or if you do a hard punch up it will round up the gear hole and gear will just slip in main shaft.

About the 100s, it binds to fhss protocol and the xk6 is s-fhss, both futaba but different tech.

100s has a lot more power but it has a tail dead band, really bad, I prefer k120 and k110.
You pick bad habits with the 100s as you keep pushing the heli to make a turn and loosing control, resulting in a crash and frustration.
It's a good heli, you have to know how to tame it down to your liking and know about the dead band on the tail, it's a cheetah on crack.

The one I use the most is the k110, second the k120 with emax servos and servo saver mod, doing that I haven't strip any gear after a hard crash, I just re-center servo horn, pop it in and to fly again.

If you use X6 transmitter, it has futaba protocol and if you use Expo, it's different than the rest, other radios use +, futaba use - values to make it less sensitive at mid stick, if you use (+) it will make it more sensitive

Last edited by salrica; 12-07-2016 at 12:58 PM..
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Old 12-09-2016, 11:13 AM   #108 (permalink)
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Thanks! I will give up on the 100s and save money for a 180cfx or oxy2 then...
So the k110 is more fun than k120? Or yust more crash proof and therefore more fun.
But more interesting... Would it make sense to put a 100s motor in the k120? Or power is comparable....?
Thanks in advance for feedback!
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Old 12-10-2016, 12:17 AM   #109 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Max olivier View Post
Thanks! I will give up on the 100s and save money for a 180cfx or oxy2 then...
So the k110 is more fun than k120? Or yust more crash proof and therefore more fun.
But more interesting... Would it make sense to put a 100s motor in the k120? Or power is comparable....?
Thanks in advance for feedback!
K110 is a great heli, well balanced for it's size, k120 shares same head as the k110 but more power, therefore not that great when crashing as some parts have to give on an unexpected landing.
If you want to learn orientations, do some light 3d, then k110 is the one with stock main motor and SUT tail motor and 120 tail blade.
If you want more power with this heli and not bogging, go with xtreme spin 16000kv motor paired with Graphene batteries from HobbyKing.
Lots of power, same flying time and no bogging.
I do have this combo and very happy with it.

120 is a good heli, just don't crash it as main gear, feathering and main shaft needs to be replaced.
I fly this heli (120) on my back patio, grass, I haven't need to change any parts after a crash but you have to hit throttle cut really fast.
I don't know if 100s motor will fit on 120, I have both and haven't think about it, but if you want an upgrade, here:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/252083701908
OR
http://www.ebay.com/itm/380849051008
Not sure which one to get, I may go with xtreme motor.

K120 Stock motor, the winding wires are butter soft, I replaced it once after a crash, it broke off, you can re-wind it with better wire but I don't know how and have no patience to do it.

You may want to go here, lots of info about this helis
https://www.rcgroups.com/micro-helis-42/

Last edited by salrica; 12-10-2016 at 12:18 PM..
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Old 12-10-2016, 02:17 AM   #110 (permalink)
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Thanks for tips and links! All very useful.
Do you know how many kV is the original k120 motor?
I understand that for k120 the trex150 motor may be better than stock but you advise to go extreme spin 16000kv and grapheme batteries. Right? For motor I know where to get it but for graphere batteries what is the type you use? I found only few 2s models in hobbyking site and they look too big for the k120...what are you using? Thanks!!!
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Old 12-10-2016, 02:34 AM   #111 (permalink)
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Thanks for tips and links! All very useful.
Do you know how many kV is the original k120 motor?
I understand that for k120 the trex150 motor may be better than stock but you advise to go extreme spin 16000kv and grapheme batteries. Right? For motor I know where to get it but for graphere batteries what is the type you use? I found only few 2s models in hobbyking site and they look too big for the k120...what are you using? Thanks!!!
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Old 12-10-2016, 12:50 PM   #112 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Max olivier View Post
Thanks for tips and links! All very useful.
Do you know how many kV is the original k120 motor?
I understand that for k120 the trex150 motor may be better than stock but you advise to go extreme spin 16000kv and grapheme batteries. Right? For motor I know where to get it but for graphere batteries what is the type you use? I found only few 2s models in hobbyking site and they look too big for the k120...what are you using? Thanks!!!
They advertise the k120 main motor as an 1100kv? Don't think so.
And for the xtreme 16000kv is for the k110 and Graphene batteries, there is no graphene packs for the k120.
This one for the k110
https://hobbyking.com/en_us/graphene...w-jst-syp.html
And for k120,
I can not find it. But a pic of it

Found, out of stock....
https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-...x-150-dfc.html
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Old 12-11-2016, 02:01 AM   #113 (permalink)
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this is good! I have these packs already ) see pics.. but you made me curious... is graphene packs really more powerful... then maybe i can adapt them to k120. in the end it is just the connector to change.

I am now trying the 130mm blades from kbdd. the heli looks much more stable and tail still holds well on slow flying. BUT management of collective is more difficult. Upon fast increase the motor slows down sensibly and lift is decreasing. mayme blades stall and I need to use much less ccollective than with standard blades. This is why i was looking for a motor with more torque.
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Old 12-11-2016, 02:53 AM   #114 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Max olivier View Post
this is good! I have these packs already ) see pics.. but you made me curious... is graphene packs really more powerful... then maybe i can adapt them to k120. in the end it is just the connector to change.

I am now trying the 130mm blades from kbdd. the heli looks much more stable and tail still holds well on slow flying. BUT management of collective is more difficult. Upon fast increase the motor slows down sensibly and lift is decreasing. mayme blades stall and I need to use much less ccollective than with standard blades. This is why i was looking for a motor with more torque.
Graphene packs, are 1s batteries and the k120 is a 2s heli, I don't think it will work

And a video with the 100s main motor on a k120 heli, it's not me the one flying. If you know Russian.
I may swap motor tomorrow and do some test my self as I have 2 100s, one is grounded, don't remember why, but I'm going to solder wires and do some test with the k120 and the 100s motor.

XK K120 - new HiSky HCP100S motor and 9T pinion (9 min 12 sec)
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Old 12-11-2016, 08:04 AM   #115 (permalink)
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sounds good! Inthe meantime I ended my experiment with 130mm blades from kbdd... tail does not hold well when you go 100% throttle... heli drifted and banked before I could hit throtthe hold. I was flying 20cm from ground ) I should have proponged the tail boom... well see results in the pics. Blade cracked and battery holder torn away.
I gained an afternoon at the workbench an dI think I will stay with stock blades. In the 5 Minutes I tried teh 130mm blades the heli was looking much more stable but also less responsive.
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Old 12-11-2016, 11:36 AM   #116 (permalink)
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I would recommend you this blades from k120 or if you want to go stretch the 125mm
http://www.ebay.com/itm/LynX-Plastic...item54254b2509

Better quality than stock

Last edited by salrica; 12-11-2016 at 12:47 PM..
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Old 12-11-2016, 02:24 PM   #117 (permalink)
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Thanks! They look much better than the ones I tried and cheap also! Will go for them!. By the way... The Russian video says that the k120 with the 100s motor has some more punch but stays still controllable. Then the guy mention also a hp06 motor as further alternative but he is skeptical that this motor is too small for the xk120.... And I found this. Looks very powerful but no idea ifnthe k120 can handle the current...
http://www.miracle-mart.com/store/in...oducts_id=5213

Well... After today crash maybe I should first learn more skills than looking for more power
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Old 12-13-2016, 07:15 PM   #118 (permalink)
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Default V977 ESC Calibration and Programming Documentation

=== V977 ESC Calibration and Programming Documentation ===
=== This is for ESCs marked HW133V2.0 on the bottom near the receiver wires ===
=== active document, check back for updates ===

--- The information here is not from official WL sources, it is from reverse engineering ---
--- Use at your own risk! This has been used by several people successfully, but is still in testing ---
--- To view this post in a wider format, click on the post number in the upper right corner ---

You must leave the main motor plugged into the ESC when doing the following procedures!
Programmable transmitter users: make sure your throttle curve is set to a true -100 to +100 or 0% to 100%

All documentation is based on tests with a red ESC marked HW133V2.0 and has been tested by 1 user with HW133V3.0

We've spend a bunch of time working to figure out the undocumented ESC programming. Many thanks for help, research, hunches, info and tips by kiwi_craig, salrica, larsen.gl, bazsound and Twilight_Sun. Also thanks to V977_fan for the initial calibration instructions and mikroll & LUCA88 for initial calibration testing.
(who did I forget?).

-- Cable to make ESC calibration and programming easier --

You will need to remove the PWM signal pin from the ESC to receiver connector plug in order to do change your ESC setup. This is the pin on the white wire. You can remove the pin by using a safety pin to pull up it's plastic retaining tab then the pin should pull out easily. But if you don't want to tamper with your original plug you can easily make a special cable out of a servo extension.

I made a removable ESC calibration & programming cable by taking a 1.25mm Molex servo extension cable and removing the plastic tab that holds the pin for the white wire so I could plug the pin in and remove it easily. Then I just plugged the cable in between the receiver and the ESC wire.
https://hobbyking.com/en_us/120mm-mo...-5pcs-bag.html

-- How to Enter Calibration Mode --

The sequence to calibrate the ESC to match your transmitter's throttle range is:
1 Remove white ESC wire pin from the ESC to receiver plug by lifting the plastic pin retaining tab with a safety pin, or use the modified cable mentioned above.
2.Unplug tail motor wire and REMOVE THE MAIN GEAR for safety.
3 Power on TX, 0% throttle, throttle hold off.
4 Power on V977, wait until it initializes and you can move the servos with the TX stick.
5 ESC should beep every second or so.
6 Raise throttle to 100% - Throttle hold still off
7 Plug in white wire - a double beep will play
8 Wait about 2 seconds and no more, then lower the throttle to 0%.
9 Let it set for a few seconds until it beeps then unplug the heli battery, it should now be calibrated.


-- How to Enter Programming Mode --

1 Remove white ESC wire pin from the ESC to receiver plug by lifting the plastic pin retaining tab with a safety pin, or use the modified cable mentioned above.
2.Unplug tail motor wire and REMOVE THE MAIN BLADES for safety.
3 Power on TX, 0% throttle, throttle hold off.
4 Power on V977, wait until it initializes and you can move the servos with the TX stick.
5 ESC should beep every second or so.
6 Raise throttle to 100% - Throttle hold still off
7 Plug in white wire - a double beep will play
8 Wait 4 seconds or more, a 5 note rising scale of tones will play very quietly, this means you have entered programming mode. It will stay in programming mode until you command it exit or disconnect the heli battery. Make sure you have removed the main blades and the tail motor is unplugged. Then hold the main motor near your ear so you can hear the programming tones.

-- Changing an ESC Parameter --

Programming is done by selecting 1 of 8 parameters (listed below), then selecting one value from a choice of up to 3 values for each parameter. While in programming mode the ESC will repeatedly cycle thru a 1 second rising note scale followed by 8 differnt tone sequences, one associated with each parameter. Each tone sequence is separated by a breif pause. When you hear the tone sequence associated with the parameter you want to change, you select it by moving the throttle all the way down as soon as the tone finishes playing.

Now that you have a parameter selected it will start playing beeps for the associated values that you can choose from. If there are 3 possible choices then it will make 1 beep, then 2 beeps, then 3 beeps and then repeat the sequence. To select the value you want to assign just wait for the number of beeps associated with the value you want, 2 beeps for the second value in the table for example. As soon as it finishes playing that number of beeps you select it by by moving the throttle all the way up.

You will then hear a high-low-high-low tone signifying that the parameter value has been changed and saved. Then you can either immediately move the throttle back down to exit programming mode, or leave it up and stay in programming mode to change another parameter.

If you get lost you can always just unplug the battery from the heli and start over. If you did not hear the high-low-high-low tone then nothing has been changed.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
-- V977 Programming Table. Parameters, their tones, and available values --
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

This table lists the programmable ESC parameters available, their associated selection tones, and the values that you can choose to assign to that parameter.

Scale = 5 rising notes in a row, signifies programming mode active
High-Low-High-Low = tone indicating parameter saved (sounds similar to an emergency vehicle siren)
Tone abbreviations: S=short tone - L=long tone

Parameter - Tone - Values
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Parameter 1 - S - Motor brake: 1 = off*, 2 = on (*default)

Parameter 2 - SS - Battery type: 1 = LiPo/Li-ion*, 2 = NiMh/NiCd (*Do not change)

Note: The V977 receiver has a separate LVC that activates around 3.3V and the ESC LVC activates at 3.1V or less
Parameter 3 - SSS - LVC mode: 1 = reduce power, 2 = power off (Don't change, receiver LVC overrides it)

Parameter 4 - SSSS - LVC threshold: 1 = low , 2 = medium, 3= high (Don't change, receiver LVC overrides it)

Parameter 5 - L - Motor startup mode: 1 = normal, 2 = soft*, 3 = super soft (*recommended)

Parameter 6 -LS - Motor timing: 1 = low, 2 = medium, 3 = high (watch your motor & ESC temperature if you change this!)

Parameter 7 - LSS - reset all values to default (test if it resets motor timing also)

Parameter 8 - LL - exit programming mode (or just unplug the heli battery)
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Devo 6S 7E F7 8S 10 12S F12E Deviation, Taranis X9D, T8J, 9X, DX6i, Phoenix 5, RF 7
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Last edited by BirdBarber; 12-14-2016 at 12:40 AM..
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Old 01-05-2017, 05:29 AM   #119 (permalink)
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Thought I would throw in my 2 cents :

I have a v977 and been upgrading the odd bit here and there. previously I had a Helimax axe 100 CP...I found that a lot of the parts are interchangeable. The axe main gear seems to be a lot better and made from FRP by the looks and is a lot stiffer, also it has a bolt rather than push fit. I found (as mentioned before) that I am constantly pushing it back on after a bad landing (AKA crash :-)) . The axe one is MUCH better.

YMMV

Lach
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Old 01-19-2017, 11:06 PM   #120 (permalink)
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What pinion do you need for the xtreme spin 16000kv motor upgrade for the K110?
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