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Old 01-20-2017, 01:15 AM   #121 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Drake Sirlit View Post
What pinion do you need for the xtreme spin 16000kv motor upgrade for the K110?
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/member.php?u=351973

Here:

http://www.banggood.com/WLtoys-V933-...tml?rmmds=cart

Have to buy this motor to get the pinion, worth it
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Old 02-05-2017, 11:31 AM   #122 (permalink)
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Just finished the motor uprade and spooled it up. I dont know the rpms were simply too fast or if me not loctiting the feathering shaft but the head exploded after a few seconds... Thing sounded ****ing angry though. One hell of an upgrade.
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Old 02-05-2017, 01:26 PM   #123 (permalink)
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Default STOP THROWING MAIN BLADES!

Here's a tip:

Locktite all spindle bolts!

As of yesterday, on my K110s I've now thrown a main blade three times! NO MORE! I'm going through all of my XK micros and am applying threadlocker to ALL the spindle bolts!
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Old 03-06-2017, 02:31 PM   #124 (permalink)
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http://www.homedepot.com/p/3M-Scotch...g-DC/100200322

If you are into 3D flying, get this tape, replace the stock one.
No tail drifting, crisp rainbows, more cyclic control but that's just my personal experience.

My heli was rotating, like head hunting, replaced spindle, main shaft, mains bearings, motor, pinion...you name it.
Last resort, the foam controller tape, that's what it was!
Use one layer on one side and 1 1/2 on the other, you will see like a bump on one side for the electronics, one layer there and 1 1/2 on the other to keep the controller level.

I just did one flight and got impressed with the results.
Going to swap the others to this foam tape.
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Old 03-07-2017, 12:12 AM   #125 (permalink)
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That's interesting, it looks much more rigid than the stock tape; I would think it would vibrate more. Let us know how it goes with your other heli's. I wonder if at least some of the tail drift happens when the motor bogs and hits the gyro with a certain frequency.
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Old 04-07-2017, 04:38 PM   #126 (permalink)
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Default Spektrum RX & Brushless ESC for V977

QUOTED FROM EMAIL INQUIRY @ Spektrumrc.com

To use a Spektrum transmitter and receiver in after-market product. The one thing that is your biggest hurdle is the connectors on the helicopter. I looked at your helicopter online and it looks like it use a white micro connector. We have a receiver that might be compatible with that style of connector. Here is the link to the receiver:
https://www.horizonhobby.com/ar6335-...iver-spmar6335
There is no guarantee the connector and receiver will match up. We have not tested our Spektrum equipment with after-market electronics.
Converting the helicopter to brushless, does not require anything from a Spektrum transmitter and receiver to make it work. You just need to make sure the dual brushless speed controller can connect to the AR6335 receiver that I provided in the link. We do carry dual brushless speed controllers but they have not been tested to work with your helicopter. Here is the link to the Apache speed controller:
https://www.horizonhobby.com/dual-br...-ah-64-blh2519. This speed controller will work with a main brushless motor and a brushless tail motor.
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Old 04-11-2017, 12:55 AM   #127 (permalink)
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For $50 you can just get the RTF transmitter. For $85 you can get a whole K110 RTF kit including brushless motor.
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Old 05-28-2017, 02:23 AM   #128 (permalink)
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Default Double the life of your V977 / K110 main gear - the Resized Gear Collar fix

I've done some experimenting with worn out main gears to bring them back to life. When the gear starts slipping on the main shaft or falls off too easily it's because the hole has been enlarged and/or the internal flat spot has been shaved off. I've found an easy way to fix a worn out gear and use it again. Note that I like to use the white HCP80 main gear on the K110 and have used it in the photo.

The idea is to squeeze the collar together so that the slot in the collar becomes smaller and the hole diameter is now also smaller where the collar is. I do this by cutting threads on the collar and screwing a #10 nut on it to squeeze it together. (for metric nuts, choose one that is a very tight fit). I use a knob to cut threads on the collar. The knob I use was used to hold a lamp shade on. You can also just jam the nut on and twist, but it's harder to keep it straight.

After I have cut the threads and installed the nut the main shaft will not fit anymore because the hole is now too small. I take a marker and mark both sides of the gear spoke where the collar slot is because it's hard to tell how to orient the gear when you install it later because the collar slot is not visible anymore. Then I take a spare main shaft, align the flat spot with the marked spoke and hammer it in with a pair of pliers to re-size the hole. Finally I grip the main shaft with the pliers about 1/3" from the gear and insert and twist a letter opener between the gear and pliers to pop the gear off. The gear is now ready for many more crashes.

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Last edited by BirdBarber; 06-01-2017 at 09:13 PM..
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Old 06-07-2017, 06:58 AM   #129 (permalink)
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Great mods Bird and salrica, thx!
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Old 07-20-2017, 01:53 AM   #130 (permalink)
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Hi guys! I'm still enjoying my K110s on a daily basis - these are just THE perfect 3D trainers!



The HCP100 bullet blades are my favorites, I find them to be both more stable and hold up better.

I've found that the Blade Nano (also used on the mCPx) tail rotor works very well! In the pic below from left you can see: The original, Nano rotor and an unknown:


The biggest one works well too, but I must say the middle one seems to perform the best. Typically backwards inverted puts the most stress on the tail and that one holds up pretty well. The bigger one is also better than stock but I can't figure out where I got that one from - anyone got an idea?

The center hole in the Nano prop is too small, so that must be drilled to the correct size. I think it was 1,5 mm.

I find the white V977 canopy is very good to use as it makes the heli look bigger and is more visible. It's a direct fit.

Btw good batteries are super important for these helis, so make sure you pick up some fresh Goo's now and then!

Happy flying!
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Old 07-25-2017, 02:36 PM   #131 (permalink)
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That big one looks like a K120 tail rotor
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Old 07-26-2017, 01:49 AM   #132 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LiquidDrift View Post
That big one looks like a K120 tail rotor
Great, thx!
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Old 08-06-2017, 03:47 PM   #133 (permalink)
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Exclamation K120 Tail not working / randomly stops for short period

Hi fellow pilots,

I wanted to share my experience troubleshooting random tail motor interruptions:

This took me and a friend (who is an experienced electronics design&troubleshooting expert) two and a half hours:
The tail motor would (very rarely, 1 in every 30 flights) stop working for a second (heli spins on it's axis and stops again) and then be fine again with no sign of any damage.
After the latest crash it wouldn't turn on, so the first idea was a bad motor or bad MOSFET on the board.
After much troubleshooting one of the two MOSFETs began smoking (there are 2 soldered directly above one another next to the plug for the tail).
After de-soldering both we were sure to have found a bad one and only soldered back the remaining one.
This didn't help and the tail was not working most of the time, but sometimes it did, especially when probing the signal lines with an oscilloscope to check if the signal was good.

While no tail motor was connected it was working 100% of the time, so we weren't any wiser.
We re-soldered all connections to and from the MOSFET and the resistor and the socket, and even the pins on the main CPU, which didn't change anything sadly.

As a last resort he suggested the ground connection might be bad and this was often the last thought when troubleshooting.
We re-soldered the connections between the main controller board and the brushless controller (which looked perfectly fine even with a magnifying glass).

That finally solved the problem permanently.
It was really strange because it ONLY affected the tail motor, all the servos and main controller were working fine all the time as far as I can tell.

Hope someone reads this and remembers to try that before ordering a new flight controller/receiver board (which would also have corrected the problem as it would have to be soldered to the other one).
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Last edited by Flo422; 08-06-2017 at 04:02 PM..
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Old 08-06-2017, 06:32 PM   #134 (permalink)
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@Flo422,
First pic, get rid of that part, don't know the name of this electronics.
Second pic shows where to solder a single wire
Third pic the other end of that wire..

Now you would not have tail lag and can run bigger tail motor.
But I got rid of the tail lagging by recalibrating the ESC.
This method was showed on Rcg when you burn tail mosfet
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Old 08-07-2017, 02:10 AM   #135 (permalink)
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@salrica:
Thanks for the information, it's a bit different situation on the K120 though.
In the pic you can see which connections where causing the trouble on mine.

On the K110 the brushless controller is connected via wire so it is probably a more robust solution (when hitting the ground a bit hard it will not crack).
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Old 08-19-2017, 01:21 PM   #136 (permalink)
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Xk k6 radio (3 min 47 sec)
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Old 08-19-2017, 02:16 PM   #137 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flo422 View Post
@salrica:
Thanks for the information, it's a bit different situation on the K120 though.
In the pic you can see which connections where causing the trouble on mine.

On the K110 the brushless controller is connected via wire so it is probably a more robust solution (when hitting the ground a bit hard it will not crack).
Having the battery connected directly to the board is possibly the stupidest idea ever used on an RC heli.
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Old 09-01-2017, 11:47 PM   #138 (permalink)
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Hi guys! I'm still enjoying my K110s on a daily basis - these are just THE perfect 3D trainers!....
Hi SHYguy I was hoping you would share the set up and bind procedure you use to have 2 x K110's in the same X6 transmitter. I would like to alternate flights between 2 similar model setups, to prevent over heating. I have a K110 RTF but would like to get a second.
Thanks
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Old 09-02-2017, 09:03 AM   #139 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Thtasher View Post
Hi SHYguy I was hoping you would share the set up and bind procedure you use to have 2 x K110's in the same X6 transmitter. I would like to alternate flights between 2 similar model setups, to prevent over heating. I have a K110 RTF but would like to get a second.
Thanks
First, you should mechanically set both/all helis up exactly the same (level swash and zero collective pitch angle @ midstick) and use no trim or subtrim in the Tx model setup.

I have several K110s and bind them all to the same model in my Tx (I use the exact same setup for each heli). Just bind each one in turn and you're good to go. But don't have more than one heli powered up at a time! - (unless you'd like to try flying multiple helis simultaneously...?)

You can also setup two different models on your X6 if you want to use different setups - but be aware that both helis will be able to be flown with both Tx models.
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Old 09-02-2017, 08:36 PM   #140 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ridge-runner View Post
..... Just bind each one in turn and you're good to go. But don't have more than one heli powered up at a time! - (unless you'd like to try flying multiple helis simultaneously...?)

You can also setup two different models on your X6 if you want to use different setups - but be aware that both helis will be able to be flown with both Tx models.
Thank you I think I understand now but coming from a Spektrum and 'model match' system it was a bit confusing.
With the Xk K110 you actually use a bind switch on the heli not in the transmitter.
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