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Finless Bob's Helifreak Tech Room Finless Bob's Helifreak Tech Room - Tips and how-To Videos


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Old 05-21-2008, 09:09 PM   #41 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Finless View Post
The gear ratio is 8.25. The pinion is 12T. I don't know the tooth count on the main gear but with that you can figure it out
OK I did... it's 99

Bob
Thanks Bob!

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Long-

We are running 1850, and 1900. Both headspeeds are awesome, I dont think there is anymore need for a higher headspeed. The YS's sweet spot seems to be around 15300 rpm.
We all love modifying helicopters don't we? If there is any chance to reduce the ratio to 8.0 or 8.18 that's would be great!
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Old 05-21-2008, 10:37 PM   #42 (permalink)
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Hey Jason B.

Do you use any shim for the YS91SR?
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Old 05-21-2008, 10:42 PM   #43 (permalink)
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No, I didnt not use the motor spacer for the YS motor.
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Old 05-21-2008, 10:43 PM   #44 (permalink)
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Quote:
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No, I didnt not use the motor spacer for the YS motor.
So the gear mesh was right on?

Long.
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Old 05-21-2008, 10:43 PM   #45 (permalink)
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Jason, can you comment about how difficult it is to remove the main shaft?
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Old 05-21-2008, 11:02 PM   #46 (permalink)
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I finally found my problem when flying my 600N Pro............I should be building the barring blocks of an Avant Aurora instead of flying.

"Tighten-up.........Tighten-up...........Tighten-up.........close call with ground.....Tighten-up... .......Tighten-up............"

Just joking thanks Bob.....
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Old 05-22-2008, 12:42 AM   #47 (permalink)
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Cant get any of the links to work i press them and the little helifreak window does not appear with the right click save as option?
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Old 05-22-2008, 02:09 PM   #48 (permalink)
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Step 3 posted!

Enjoy,
Bob
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Old 05-22-2008, 02:55 PM   #49 (permalink)
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Please Bob, stop with the little clip between segments!!
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Old 05-22-2008, 02:56 PM   #50 (permalink)
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I like the little clip.... but change them up a little. Make the text easier to read..... and add in a hot babe or two holding the heli.
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Old 05-22-2008, 03:16 PM   #51 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Please Bob, stop with the little clip between segments!!
grand rc hooked him up big time, why shouldnt he? just fast fwd through it if you dont like it, thats what i do.
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Old 05-22-2008, 03:19 PM   #52 (permalink)
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Sheesh..... it's only a 4 second little clip. I guess those 4 seconds can seam like eternity if your in deep anticipation of the next step. The hot babes would make it a more pleasant 4 seconds.
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Old 05-22-2008, 05:30 PM   #53 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Long Nguyen K. View Post
So the gear mesh was right on?

Long.
The main gear mesh with the pinion is not adjustable.

Quote:
Jason, can you comment about how difficult it is to remove the main shaft?
Simple, Remove the tank(like 2 seconds), and access the set screw with a 3mm wrench, I use a ball ended L shaped alan wrench. Once the set screw is out, pus the pin out, an your done.
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Old 05-22-2008, 05:39 PM   #54 (permalink)
 

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I like the little clip.... but change them up a little. Make the text easier to read..... and add in a hot babe or two holding the heli.
hot babes with heli bikinis
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Old 05-22-2008, 06:04 PM   #55 (permalink)
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Ok now got the vids down and i am loving it. Not quite as good as building my own but ppretty darn close Great work Bob as ALWAYS!!
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Old 05-22-2008, 10:27 PM   #56 (permalink)
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Great looking kit, kind of curious why Augusto didn't anodize the parts.
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Old 05-22-2008, 11:00 PM   #57 (permalink)
 

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Great looking kit, kind of curious why Augusto didn't anodize the parts.
chrome don't get ya home
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Old 05-22-2008, 11:06 PM   #58 (permalink)
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Anodizing isn't the same thing as chrome. And anodizing helps to prevent leaving small scratches and finger prints on the nicely machined parts.
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Old 05-22-2008, 11:08 PM   #59 (permalink)
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I think they have a type of anodizing that's natural looking..... at least they do on hot rods.
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Old 05-22-2008, 11:16 PM   #60 (permalink)
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Alum naturally rusts, this forms a thin layer of alum oxide. This layer will be thin as eventually the oxygen can't reach the alum throu the layer of alum oxide. Anodizing is a process to force the natural process to continue making the alum oxide layer thicker. The thicker alum oxide layer is much harder which helps prevent scratches and the oils in your fingers attacking the metal. Visually the only difference between a anodized and a non-anodized piece is the anodized piece looks little whiter and hazier.
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