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Old 05-23-2008, 12:00 AM   #61 (permalink)
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Zoops will protect it for good while.... then after you stuff it in the ground once or twice just reapply. http://www.zoops.com/home.asp
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Old 05-23-2008, 12:20 AM   #62 (permalink)
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Alum naturally rusts, this forms a thin layer of alum oxide. This layer will be thin as eventually the oxygen can't reach the alum throu the layer of alum oxide. Anodizing is a process to force the natural process to continue making the alum oxide layer thicker. The thicker alum oxide layer is much harder which helps prevent scratches and the oils in your fingers attacking the metal. Visually the only difference between a anodized and a non-anodized piece is the anodized piece looks little whiter and hazier.
Actually I would prefer if it was not anodized. That way I can polish it and make it look like a hot rod.
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Old 05-23-2008, 12:34 AM   #63 (permalink)
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Don't polish it too much or you might end up with a 450.
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Old 05-23-2008, 12:41 AM   #64 (permalink)
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You guys need to get one of these and quite BS'ing

So you know I prefer RAW ali parts rather than anodizing that in the end gets the crap beat out of it!
Like Kevin said.... If you are into it.. You can show up with a ROCKIN polished heli that EVERYONE looks at! Trust me.. I have been there

Anyway STEP 4, one of the most important steps (other than the head) in this build is posted...

Enjoy,
Bob
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Old 05-23-2008, 01:00 AM   #65 (permalink)
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Do you jump on the capi needs a nitro bandwagon too !!!
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Old 05-23-2008, 01:12 AM   #66 (permalink)
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Anyway STEP 4, one of the most important steps (other than the head) in this build is posted...
From what I can tell, if you had to replace torque tube gears after a crash, trying to get the mesh correct, looks like it will be quite difficult. Especially after the frames are together.

I guess I will find out once mine is built.

Great job on the video's Bob. It's much appreciated!
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Old 05-23-2008, 01:13 AM   #67 (permalink)
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Do you jump on the capi needs a nitro bandwagon too !!!
He called you out on it capi.... It's on my gotta have list. Just matter of time and funding.
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Old 05-23-2008, 07:40 AM   #68 (permalink)
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No heatshrink over the pins???? I would, especially after finless said that the pin was loose but the gear was tight.
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Old 05-23-2008, 10:08 AM   #69 (permalink)
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Don't forget that you have a set screw that goes into the inside of the shaft and clamps that pin in place.
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Old 05-23-2008, 10:29 AM   #70 (permalink)
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grand rc hooked him up big time, why shouldnt he? just fast fwd through it if you dont like it, thats what i do.
I totally agree with you. I would rather see a water mark in one corner for the duration of the clip. He could also use a towel from the sponsor :-)
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Old 05-23-2008, 10:29 AM   #71 (permalink)
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True but then it's a lot of heli to be trusted in a small pin, where a 1cent piece of shrink will stop it ever happening.
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Old 05-23-2008, 10:36 AM   #72 (permalink)
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heatshrink vs STEEL pin hmmmmmmmmmmm. There is very little force pushing the pin from out of the slot so even the smallest thing will hold it in place.
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Old 05-23-2008, 10:36 AM   #73 (permalink)
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Natural non-anodized aluminum parts will reveal their quality if they are truly good graded aluminum.

Look at MA parts and you guys will know what I'm talking about.
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Old 05-23-2008, 11:10 AM   #74 (permalink)
 

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No heatshrink over the pins???? I would, especially after finless said that the pin was loose but the gear was tight.
Like on a Raptor, a pin holds a pulley onto a shaft. The only thing holding that pin in there is friction.
Heat shrink in that case would be a good idea, as it serves as a back up.

The set screws on these Aurora tail gear pins are flat points. There's more surface area contacting the pin. I'm very confident that the pins will not slip.
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Old 05-23-2008, 01:16 PM   #75 (permalink)
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Guys... the set screw holding the pin is by far superior to heat shrink! As long as you locktite the set screw there is NO WAY that pin is coming out....

Bob
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Old 05-23-2008, 01:38 PM   #76 (permalink)
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Guys... the set screw holding the pin is by far superior to heat shrink! As long as you locktite the set screw there is NO WAY that pin is coming out....

Bob
A hardened set screw against a hardened pin really isn't a secure mechanical connection. Actually, the pin is harder than the screw as evidenced by looking at the screw contact tip after it's been tightened once.

My favorite process and "bullet proof" is to grind a very shallow recess into the side of the pin right at the point of screw contact. Now with the tip of the screw into this recess, there's a positive mechanical stop that requires very little force from the setscrew to hold the pin in place. I said shallow, not half-way through the pin thickness. Works perfect!
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Old 05-23-2008, 01:47 PM   #77 (permalink)
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There is almost no force acting on the pin in the lateral direction, you don't need to weld the thing into place.
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Old 05-23-2008, 02:18 PM   #78 (permalink)
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Default Cross Pin Security - Video Assembly Step 4...

Very important step needs to be done before inserting the M3 set screws into the shafts to hold the cross pins. Does anyone remember some problems with the early Raptor 60 tail drive systems? Almost identical configuration to the Aurora's. Was discovered (the hard way in some instances) that the threads for the pin-retaining screws weren't deep enough and the set screw would stop turning before it would contact the pin.

Please preinsert the set screws into each of their holes and look through the pins' holes to see if the screw tips are visible past the edges of the holes. You may otherwise be fooled into thinking the screw is contacting the pin when stopped and in reality the screw is just binding against the last turn of the hole threads.

I'm reminded about this from an Aurora builder on another forum having similar issues with the main shaft and its main gear retaining pin. Checking first is a good idea.
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Old 05-23-2008, 02:34 PM   #79 (permalink)
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There is almost no force acting on the pin in the lateral direction, you don't need to weld the thing into place.
Not welding, a proper mechanical retention. I'm just making a suggestion based on many, many years of working with heli's and other mechanical devices. How much is enough?
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Old 05-23-2008, 02:51 PM   #80 (permalink)
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Well obviously a flat spot is for sure a better connection. Do it if you feel the need but I honestly don't think it is neccessary but is certainly wont hurt!

And yes it is a VERY good idea to check that the set screw goes all the way up into the shaft and can contact the pin! Thats a good tip and I should have covered that in the video. Props.... I will see if I can do that in another segment.

I guess a couple of main shafts went out that were not fully tapped so for SURE check this. Thanks Headcase.... Good tips.

Bob
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