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Old 08-03-2016, 02:57 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default MD 500E

Ok, so here it is right out of the box. Funkey MD 500E 600 size.
I already see some problems with the nose piece. Too large of a gap on top and is a little too fat. The windscreen molding looks too long as it is wavy.
The gap I can probably close up using some card stock and glazing putty. I think if I remove the windscreen molding and cut the top by where it is seamed together (you can see it by where the gap is), then it will relax and not be so fat (of course I could nickname this "Fat Pig II" LOL). Install molding later.
Some pics. Still deciding on Military or Civilian version.


Ron
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Old 08-04-2016, 12:56 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Placement of the magnets to hold the nose might suck up that space. I say this because my Funkey 600 wasn't perfect either and that was the solution.

Be careful of the nose piece because those window frame strips are quite fragile. In fact, I cut and installed the windows (with protective covering on them) to help keep it all safe while I worked on things.

...and once you press the window into place that center strip should tighten up.
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Old 08-04-2016, 10:41 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Trooper 7,
prior to taking those pictures, I tried magnets up high in the doghouse and it did not close up good enough. I put the windscreen in place and the molding is still too long. I cut out the molding and cut the seam on the nose on the top. This allowed everything to relax and then I put the magnets in. It closed up the gap to about the thickness of a business card. Need to re-enforce the seam with glass when I fill the hole on the bottom of the fuselage.
I have the windscreen taped in place and the molding is a little long still but, I wont worry about that until after it is painted then I will install the windscreens.

Ron
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Old 08-04-2016, 08:23 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Sorry to see it's going to be a bit more work than it should.

I've got two MD500E under my belt so if I can help let me know.

Cheers,
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Old 08-05-2016, 07:30 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Trooper7, it's all good. It wouldn't seem right if it all went together with no problems.
I ordered an oooold school tail box on late Mon. and it arrived here about 2 hours ago along with the boom and tt.
I like the way the fin will bolt to the box and the clamp is on the other side so the fin will not get crushed trying to clamp down on the boom. It will be easy to cover with some very thin balsa and in front of gear part I will cover the taper with cardboard tube like I did on the "C" model.

Ron
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Old 08-07-2016, 01:48 AM   #6 (permalink)
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...I never thought to use the old style assembly. Nice. I ended up using spacers and longer bolts.
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Old 08-07-2016, 07:29 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trooper7 View Post
...I never thought to use the old style assembly. Nice. I ended up using spacers and longer bolts.
Plus the tail blades will be on the correct side. I will be modifying the linkage like I did on my "C" model so the push rod stays on the bottom.

Ron
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Old 08-09-2016, 03:20 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Alright, time to flip the tail and get the blades on the correct side. If you just flip the gear box, the linkage is now on top. pic.#1

I want the linkage on the bottom so, I have to get creative. I am using the old style single pivot control linkage. It takes 2 of the control arms using a longer shouldered screw and a couple of washers (to account for the offset mount). pic.#2

Now I cut off the ball arm off of the top one and the socket part off of the bottom one to get this. Pic.# 3&4

Now just bonded together with (and I know there are some skeptics) but trust me, It works, J.B. Weld. This is the 3rd one I have done and I even shorten Torque tubes using it as well. pic.#5
Now just some filing to shape and all is done.

Ron
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Old 10-03-2016, 03:52 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Well I've been quite busy lately with other adventures so, I had some time yesterday. Mounted the mechanics to a sub floor and into the body. Cut the 700 boom down and mounted the tail box and fin. Need to make a torque tube and tail pushrod.
I still don't like the way the nose fits so, I have decided to make it into a "D" model as that is the one it will be modeled after.
Until next time,
Ron
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Old 10-10-2016, 11:56 PM   #10 (permalink)
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I have always liked the "D" model nose, so here is what it will be modeled after. Working on the floats now.

Ron
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Old 10-11-2016, 11:46 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
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I have always liked the "D" model nose, so here is what it will be modeled after. Working on the floats now.

Ron
Sweet, hope you did ok through the storm

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
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Old 10-11-2016, 12:35 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Yeah, we did good. Only lost a few small branches on a couple of trees. Lost power for about 18 hours.
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Old 10-14-2016, 09:16 AM   #13 (permalink)
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I started to work on the first float. I am using pool noodles, they are the perfect size. Some 50 grit on a piece of wood cut it down pretty fast, a few heavy coats of high build primer and then sanded back with 180. It is going to take a while but, I think it will look good.

Ron
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Old 12-14-2016, 02:22 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Well, as life goes, always taking punches and jabs. This project has got a big whack from the Budget Axe. So back to the original planned "E" model.
Also, the floats weren't turning out right and a "D" model nose is a little costly. I'll come up with a cool paint scheme and go from there.

Ron
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Old 12-16-2016, 12:59 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Don't sweat it, Ron. Whatever version you make will turn out just fine. I am not so sure that the floats were a waste of effort and maybe a different cover material might make it easier to get a smooth finish. Glass and epoxy??? Take care.

Don
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Old 12-16-2016, 02:48 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Thanks Don, as far as the floats go, this one was to be a template and then build 2 new ones from it. The problem was that the skid pipes need to be longer off the front but the covering was looking good with high build primer then sanded back. I have a silver grayish flat that I was going to give a light dusting. Maybe down the road sometime.
Ok, so I still want to do a full cockpit on this one so I hung it from the main shaft to balance it. Made a battery tray that will be under the cabin floor.
Instrument panel stack should be a challenge to build. Will start that next.

Ron
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Old 12-17-2016, 04:52 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Got a little more done last night. I got the floor cut so it fits nicely inside and the canopy magnets with alignment pins glued in place.
I had to cut the seam on the top to relieve it to make the body line straight.
Need to glass the gap closed and finish.

Ron
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Old 12-18-2016, 03:38 AM   #18 (permalink)
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Hi Ron; Have you considered forming the floats from half-shells of heat-formed sheet plastic? I use this technique quite often, although usually for smaller items.
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Old 12-20-2016, 07:56 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Hi Ron; Have you considered forming the floats from half-shells of heat-formed sheet plastic? I use this technique quite often, although usually for smaller items.
Hi Nelson, the floats will work, it is just going to take more time than I am willing to give at this time. Maybe down the road.

I have made some progress lately on the cockpit. It is not permanent but it is starting to take on a good shape.

Ron
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Old 12-22-2016, 11:09 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Got some more done on the instrument panel. Need some more filling and sanding but, not too bad for a first timer. Seats are next. I think I will get the sticks and pedals from RC Aerodyne.

Ron
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