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Old 09-05-2016, 11:19 AM   #21 (permalink)
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Hey Bill , you like it better than your 230 ? Or is it just " different " ?
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Old 09-05-2016, 06:10 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Hey Bill , you like it better than your 230 ? Or is it just " different " ?
It's more precise for my style of flying Seems more stable in IU1 & 2. Out of the box had a slight drift to the right but that was quickly solved with a trim flight. Now it's pretty much hands off on the hover.

Conditions were pretty calm but had a quick gust and it seemed to handle it better than the 230S probably due to the weight.

Made a couple of simple mods on the canopy in hopes of toning down the resonance/harmonics will test tomorrow morning and see if they work.

A little tail blow out in Normal mode, less in IU1 and even less in IU2 so I think there is a gain adjustment that needs a little attention.

In summation, it's like a more precise 230S with more power! A step up from the 230S but not a jump to a 270cfx! So far, I'm happy with the purchase.
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Old 09-05-2016, 09:33 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Thanks Bill , I value your opinion and Knowledge very much ! I think I'm going to have to add this one to my fleet also ...
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Old 09-06-2016, 07:38 AM   #24 (permalink)
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Mine had a lot of gear noise when I first flew it. I checked the gear mesh and it was very tight, too tight IMO. I adjusted it and it quieted down and seemed to spin a lot freer. This heli uses the same motor as the 300X and I can say from experience that if one runs the gears mesh tight the bearings in the motor will not last long. The gear mesh on this heli is adjusted by the four side screws not the motor attach screws.
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Old 09-06-2016, 08:48 AM   #25 (permalink)
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I wonder if my method for setting the 230S mesh would work. It works for me every time to give the smoothest and least noisy mesh. I loosen the four motor mount screws and push the motor hard against the main gear. Be sure to push at the mount itself so the motor doesn't get cocked at an angle. Rotate the head by hand slowly until the binding starts to free up and keep rotating it a bit more until it feels smooth. The high spot(s) on the main gear will back the motor/pinion away from the maingear the exact amount needed. Then, tighten the motor mount screws and that's it for a perfect mesh every time.
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Old 09-06-2016, 10:02 AM   #26 (permalink)
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I wonder if my method for setting the 230S mesh would work. It works for me every time to give the smoothest and least noisy mesh. I loosen the four motor mount screws and push the motor hard against the main gear. Be sure to push at the mount itself so the motor doesn't get cocked at an angle. Rotate the head by hand slowly until the binding starts to free up and keep rotating it a bit more until it feels smooth. The high spot(s) on the main gear will back the motor/pinion away from the maingear the exact amount needed. Then, tighten the motor mount screws and that's it for a perfect mesh every time.
Mike,
Good method but I carry it one more step. I cut a thin strip of paper and feed it between the pinion and main gear. Push the motor against the main and rotate the main gear to feed the paper through. This method ensures a particular mesh which can then be examined by looking at the paper after it has exited. While the paper is still in place, tighten the motor screws and you are all set.

If you want a loose(r) mesh use a different stock of paper that is thicker. Thinner if you want a tighter mesh. Paper ends up being a feeler gauge.

I just checked mine and it was a little tight for preferences so I ran a strip of 24 lb. paper through and it feels a lot better.

One the subject of noise, I cut a strip of Velcro "sticky back" and stuck it on the "tongue" of the canopy aligning with the Velcro "mate" on the front cross of the skids. This broke the vibration resonance from the frame and lowered the noise and it adds about "nothing" in weight plus, it's not visible when the canopy is in place! A win-win!!

For all.... the "tongue" usually goes between the skids and frame but on a CF frame, it just rides underneath on the skid cross. The Velcro acts as a buffer yet holds the canopy in place instead of allowing it to vibrate and resonate which amplifies the motor harmonics.

If the sound bothers you, give this a try. I'm also working of an additional sound dampening mod which adds minimum weight and breaks up the resonate frequencies further.

Flew 3 packs and had to bring her in due to a rain shower. Fortunately was able to land before it really came down so I used up my luck for the day!
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Old 09-06-2016, 10:14 AM   #27 (permalink)
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My method works without having to mess with paper. IMO, it isn't needed anyway and I did try it with my 230S. My way sets the perfect mesh with no lash at the highest spot on the maingear. Even the Blade guy (Brian Bremer) posted in one of the stickies that the 230S likes the mesh on the tighter side and I concur from my findings. Is the 250CFX that way? I don't know, but I thought I'd make a recommendation anyway. It certainly can't hurt anything and it's free to try.
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Old 09-06-2016, 12:27 PM   #28 (permalink)
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I wonder if my method for setting the 230S mesh would work. It works for me every time to give the smoothest and least noisy mesh. I loosen the four motor mount screws and push the motor hard against the main gear. Be sure to push at the mount itself so the motor doesn't get cocked at an angle. Rotate the head by hand slowly until the binding starts to free up and keep rotating it a bit more until it feels smooth. The high spot(s) on the main gear will back the motor/pinion away from the maingear the exact amount needed. Then, tighten the motor mount screws and that's it for a perfect mesh every time.
Same way I do it. Works for the 230 anyway.
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Old 09-06-2016, 05:07 PM   #29 (permalink)
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Same way I do it. Works for the 230 anyway.
Before I finally figured out that method for myself, my 230S either had vibrations, sounded like gravel in a coffee can or both.
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Old 09-06-2016, 06:16 PM   #30 (permalink)
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I actually stopped by my LHS today and picked up the 250cfx. Copied my 230s model in my radio and took it for a quick flight. Mine was actually quieter than my 230s without doing anything. I was quite surprised at how smooth and quiet it was. Also of note was how stable and solid it held in hover. No drift what so ever. No trim flight, nothing! This is already the best out of the box blade heli I have had.

Very impressed!
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Old 09-08-2016, 08:35 AM   #31 (permalink)
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Default For those that pre judged.........

the 250cfx is a nice upgrade to the 230S. If purchased with HH coupons, it brings the price to a reasonable level.

After several flights and a little tuning, It is more than just a frame upgrade! It's flight characteristics are quite nice. So, even thought I originally was not going to buy one..... I'm really glad I did!
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Old 09-08-2016, 09:14 AM   #32 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Bill_Van View Post
the 250cfx is a nice upgrade to the 230S. If purchased with HH coupons, it brings the price to a reasonable level.

After several flights and a little tuning, It is more than just a frame upgrade! It's flight characteristics are quite nice. So, even thought I originally was not going to buy one..... I'm really glad I did!
It would seem like that if you already have a 230 and you're fairly happy with it, the cost seems too much for the very little gained. Is it a big enough difference to substantiate the cost you think? I know it is for you...but for anyone?
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Old 09-08-2016, 11:44 AM   #33 (permalink)
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It would seem like that if you already have a 230 and you're fairly happy with it, the cost seems too much for the very little gained. Is it a big enough difference to substantiate the cost you think? I know it is for you...but for anyone?
I obviously can't speak for anybody but myself as to the "value" perception, but if you like the avionics of the 230S and prefer more precision, additional power, additional speed and responsiveness, plus considerable more stability in the wind, the 250cfx is a good buy. As mentioned in the first post, if you use the coupons, the additional cost is almost a wash.

BTW, I do subscribe to the philosophy of you can NEVER have too many helicopters! To each their own! For the already accomplished pilot who has neither, the 250cfx (with coupons) is a slam dunk! To the person that is a total beginner, might want to get something less expensive.
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Old 09-08-2016, 04:03 PM   #34 (permalink)
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BTW, I do subscribe to the philosophy of you can NEVER have too many helicopters!
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Old 09-08-2016, 04:27 PM   #35 (permalink)
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What coupon?
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Old 09-08-2016, 04:28 PM   #36 (permalink)
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Default tail hold

Got mine today and I have tail hold issues in any mildly aggresive pitch type change positive or negative upside down. I have two 230s and 3d the crap out of them and my tail holds fine with them ? Same transmitter configuration so I am really stumped why my tail won't hold. I am in 3D mode
anyone else with this issue right now it is scary to fly dealing with the tail.

45C 1300 pack

Last edited by Chris DeSain; 09-08-2016 at 04:29 PM.. Reason: added
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Old 09-08-2016, 04:35 PM   #37 (permalink)
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Think the 250 will be as crash friendly to the wallet as the 230?
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Old 09-08-2016, 04:55 PM   #38 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Chris DeSain View Post
Got mine today and I have tail hold issues in any mildly aggresive pitch type change positive or negative upside down. I have two 230s and 3d the crap out of them and my tail holds fine with them ? Same transmitter configuration so I am really stumped why my tail won't hold. I am in 3D mode
anyone else with this issue right now it is scary to fly dealing with the tail.

45C 1300 pack
Try upping the P gain in the AR636. My 230S tail was wishy washy, probably because I'm at a relatively high elevation, and it was much better after I cranked it up from 100 to 150.
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Old 09-08-2016, 06:00 PM   #39 (permalink)
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What coupon?
HN4D-CSFB-E6V2 10% off purchase of $99 or more.

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Think the 250 will be as crash friendly to the wallet as the 230?
Probably not. Hard to tell until we crash one

The 250 may be more durable but the frame parts will cost more. I guess it depends on how extensive the damage is! Most the other parts are either 300 or 230 so those will be the same.
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Old 09-08-2016, 08:15 PM   #40 (permalink)
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Default Gain

Yes, I went into the DX18 where you can make more granular settings in telemetry screen than the swash tilt with no telemetry so I went to 120 to start and had a big improvement before it started to sprinkle. Grab a little bit more and should be dialed. Little twitch still but much improved.

I second the snappy collective comment earlier. Can't wait to get to a field to shake this down. I love my 230's but if this has a little more poop and longer flight times I will be very happy.
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