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Old 01-01-2017, 12:12 AM   #41 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by ah_liang View Post
Ya, I agree but importantly is that it flies well.
That it does.
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Old 01-01-2017, 12:18 AM   #42 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by sikwati View Post
Yes its not the lightest 700. If you really care about weight get the 690sx. Mine just a little under 10lbs. Also the Logo 700 is one of the easiest 700 that I ever build. Finish building it in one day without rushing and very attention to detail. A good 10 hours and had is flying the next day.
I like the weight of my Logo 700. Not heavy, yet not too light. The post I was quoting made the Logo 700 sound like the lightest 700 ever, which the Logo 700 is not.
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Old 01-01-2017, 12:20 AM   #43 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Ace Dude View Post
What areas are difficult or challenging work on? IMHO it's a low parts count easy to build and maintain heli.
Is there a way to access the elevator servo or the front TT gears without splitting the upper frames?
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Old 01-01-2017, 01:30 AM   #44 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by 3Dmuse View Post
Is there a way to access the elevator servo or the front TT gears without splitting the upper frames?
How often do you anticipate needing access to either of those?
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Old 01-01-2017, 07:26 AM   #45 (permalink)
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Lol answer the question no there is not - the only thing i see different from my 690 is the lower frame can easily replace parts without splitting it.

Im finishing up my 717 logo. Juicy man real juicy.
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Old 01-01-2017, 08:22 AM   #46 (permalink)
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To replace the front TT gears, can't you just
- loosen the 4 set screws and drop the vertical gear's shaft, and remove the vertical gear
- remove the tail boom and push the horizontal TT gear forward and out?

I've never tried this but just looking at the manual it may work?


As for the elevator servo, it's in there. Although, you don't need to remove it often, that could have been done better. IE: mold the mounting lugs a 1/8" closer to the center line, mount the aluminum servo mounts from the inside, but then allow the servo to be inserted from the outside and screwed to the aluminum mounts from the other direction ???
At least the output shaft screw is accessible.

KevinB
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Old 01-01-2017, 09:12 AM   #47 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by KevinB View Post
To replace the front TT gears, can't you just
- loosen the 4 set screws and drop the vertical gear's shaft, and remove the vertical gear
- remove the tail boom and push the horizontal TT gear forward and out?

I've never tried this but just looking at the manual it may work?


As for the elevator servo, it's in there. Although, you don't need to remove it often, that could have been done better. IE: mold the mounting lugs a 1/8" closer to the center line, mount the aluminum servo mounts from the inside, but then allow the servo to be inserted from the outside and screwed to the aluminum mounts from the other direction ???
At least the output shaft screw is accessible.

KevinB
Looks like it may work.
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Old 01-01-2017, 09:48 AM   #48 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by KevinB View Post
To replace the front TT gears, can't you just
- loosen the 4 set screws and drop the vertical gear's shaft, and remove the vertical gear
- remove the tail boom and push the horizontal TT gear forward and out?

I've never tried this but just looking at the manual it may work?
Yes, I think this approach should work. And I have big hands, you know LOL.

Quote:
As for the elevator servo, it's in there. Although, you don't need to remove it often, that could have been done better. IE: mold the mounting lugs a 1/8" closer to the center line, mount the aluminum servo mounts from the inside, but then allow the servo to be inserted from the outside and screwed to the aluminum mounts from the other direction ???
At least the output shaft screw is accessible.

KevinB
I was thinking about a similar solution. This is how Mikado should have done it.

Anyway, I wanted to give the topic starter a more balanced opinion. The Logo 700 is not the lightest or the easiest to work on, but when it comes to flying, it totally delivers.

Happy New Year everyone!
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Old 01-01-2017, 10:46 AM   #49 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by 3Dmuse View Post
Yes, I think this approach should work. And I have big hands, you know LOL.

I was thinking about a similar solution. This is how Mikado should have done it.

Anyway, I wanted to give the topic starter a more balanced opinion. The Logo 700 is not the lightest or the easiest to work on, but when it comes to flying, it totally delivers.

Happy New Year everyone!
So what's the easiest comparable sized heli to work on?
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Old 01-01-2017, 11:23 AM   #50 (permalink)
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We can write a very long response to that question. "Easy to work on" is entirely different from how long does it take to do a given repair.

The logo is very easy to work on. But I can't tear it down and put it back together as fast as I can my goblin. I've had plenty of belt drive and shaft drive machines. My opinion is the goblin layout is the quickest to tear down and put back together. There is no lengthy gear lash adjustments, just pull and tighten. I bang belts off as fast you take your pants off.

I retension and finish the belts driveline as fast as you put your pants on. It helps I'm very familiar with it. i know guys here who say the exact same thing about the logo. That they can wrench and do repairs in a blink of an eye but they struggle with goblins.

Mechanically the heads are basically all the same. Logo has other strengths. It already comes with landing gear you don't need to buy it as an option The main shaft on the logo is massive, and tall, three bearings suporting it. Thats where a big chunk of your weight difference comes. Logo motor is tucked in tight close to main shaft, goblin its much farther away.

They're both FANTASTIC machines. I also put a few hundred flights on protos. Great machine ! I'm a bit of a heli slut though I like em all. Protos has THE best canopy to flip on and off, but its a heavy bird, protos is great for high flight count guys. Minimal tinkering.

I say, get which one you are attracted to. To not get what you really want because it may be harder to work on, or because it may be 0.2 lbs heavier, or on the flip side, to buy something maybe if you don't like the way it looks but it should be fast to repair after a crash..... meah. I say get what you like !! You will turn a blind eye to the negatives but thrive on the positives.
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Old 09-08-2017, 06:10 AM   #51 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KevinB View Post
To replace the front TT gears, can't you just
- loosen the 4 set screws and drop the vertical gear's shaft, and remove the vertical gear
- remove the tail boom and push the horizontal TT gear forward and out?

I've never tried this but just looking at the manual it may work?
Did anyone get this to work?

Bent my boom and snapped the TT yesterday. Front gears sound OK but I'd like to at least inspect if not replace them before flying the heli again.
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Old 09-08-2017, 08:51 PM   #52 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by mahbouni View Post
Did anyone get this to work?

Bent my boom and snapped the TT yesterday. Front gears sound OK but I'd like to at least inspect if not replace them before flying the heli again.
Good news and bad news....

Good news, no you don't have to split the frames, unless you screw up the rear crown gear bearing. Bad news, you need to drop the main gear to give enough space to get the vertical gear out. After that, yes, you can press out the crown gear with it's 4 bolts loosened. The front bearing comes out with it. The rear bearing is locked in the frames.

One other safety tip... don't use a hammer to tap out the crown gear. If it's a really tight fit like some are, this will flat spot the rear bearing....and you'll be back to splitting the frames to change it. I made up a little tool that presses between the two boom retaining bolts and the crown gear to gently press it out. Works slick and even the tightest gear comes out easy with no damage to the bearing.

KevinB

Last edited by KevinB; 09-08-2017 at 10:14 PM..
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Old 09-09-2017, 02:45 AM   #53 (permalink)
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Thanks, I'll give it a go when my parts arrive.
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Old 09-10-2017, 04:41 AM   #54 (permalink)
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Well that was painless. I even replaced the rear bearing. Just needed to remove screws from the back of the frame. I was able to prise the back of the frames apart just a little bit, get my index finger into the bearing, pull it out and pop a new one back in. I will have to remount the Neo but that's fine.

As for the gears, they weren't damaged from the crash but there were signs of wear over time. The old ones gave me a about year of service, so I guess that's probably roughly the maintenance schedule I can expect in future.
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Old 01-11-2020, 05:27 AM   #55 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mahbouni View Post
From my perspective the heli pirouettes flat and it flies great. Whenever I did do an auto trim it didn't make any difference that I could notice.
auto trim will also help with your rudder, if you notice there is no option to center servo horn perfectly on the rudder servo, auto trim will make trims if necessary here.
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Old 01-11-2020, 06:28 PM   #56 (permalink)
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its been 3 yrs, ya think hes still looking for help?
Johnny31297 and blarks like this.
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