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Old 01-11-2017, 06:06 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default NX4 build

My kit came in yesterday so I figured I'd start a build thread. People seemed to like my Protos build threads and they were helpful to me too.

I hope to start on it this weekend. It will be a slow build mostly since I'm very busy with work and the weather won't be good for a few months, but I'm in no rush. Also it's my first nitro so I want to take my time and do it right.

Is there anything I should know before getting into it? I plan to do the coke can mod on the clutch and I think I heard or read something about fuel tubing.

I don't have any good photos yet, but here are the boxes.



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Old 01-11-2017, 08:15 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I'll be watching the build... What engine and servo choice have you made??
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Old 01-11-2017, 08:27 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hate_To_Crash View Post
I'll be watching the build... What engine and servo choice have you made??
The engine is a used OS37 which has been rebuilt (by previous owner) and still needs 2-3 tanks of break in (If I understood correctly).

Servos are KST HV something. I don't remember the number right now. I'll post pics of everything later.

I've been using some KST servos for cyclic on my Protos 380. They are working well so I decided to try them here too. Also, they are cheap.
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Old 01-12-2017, 11:57 PM   #4 (permalink)
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If i remember correctly it was Bobby Watts in the smack talk quick tips NX4 video that mentioned the fuel tubing. He was saying that the included fuel tube from the clunk to the tank outlet (so inside the tank) could split at the point where it's pushed over the nipples and to rather change it out to a different tubing.
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Old 01-13-2017, 08:50 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Welcome to the nx4 club! Just got a used one about a month ago. It needed a bunch of parts but it works cherry now.I belive they fixed the problem with the clutch. The newer clutches are a little more beefy and the gap between the clutch and liner is near nothing. The old clutch I took out of it was a little thinner on the edges ill have to try and find it to take a pic of them side by side.
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Old 01-13-2017, 10:37 PM   #6 (permalink)
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thanks

I'm ready to get started tomorrow.

I just ordered some fuel tubing, red dampers, extra clutch liner, and a switchglo pro.

However, I was looking through the kit and apparently the fuel tank is already assembled. I guess I will have to use the tubing it comes with. I didn't want to try very hard to take it apart and risk damaging it.




Also, the head appears to be all pre-assembled. I'll make sure it's loc-tited but probably won't install the red dampers until later.

Here's what I have so far:
OS37
I don't know what the pipe is. It looks like some sort of hatori knock-off. I'll try it but may get a hatori later.
Halo 450mm mains (I'd like to try Spin 435s if I could find any in stock)
Halo 72mm tails.
iKon (with blingy red aluminum case because it was on sale on black friday )
KST DS589MG for cyclic and throttle.
KST MS565 for tail
Pulse 2550 RX pack
Spektrum satellites
Align RPM sensor
OS 8 plugs
I think all I need now is a starter and fuel, but I'll get those later.

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Old 01-14-2017, 10:55 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Pick one of these up too. It will help you tighten up the nut on the crank when you install the fan. Experience is out of stock right now but maybe other shops might have it in stock. There are other methods of locking your crank in place but this makes it easy.

http://www.experiencerc.com/store/pr...oducts_id=3229
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Old 01-14-2017, 02:10 PM   #8 (permalink)
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The build is going well. I'm at the engine alignment step. I've got lots of pics I'll post later, but now I have a probably dumb question. Should the motor turn freely? As the piston moves towards the glow plug and closes the exhaust port, it gets hard to move. I assume this is just compressed air and completely normal, but I just want to make sure. Thanks.

edit: I took out the glow plug and there was definitely less resistance. Still a little bit though.

Also, how is that crankshaft clamp thing used? I just held on to the fan and used a ratchet.
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Old 01-14-2017, 04:03 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Today's progress:






















My CA is all dried up so I'm using this. Hopefully it will be ok.

















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Old 01-14-2017, 05:54 PM   #10 (permalink)
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To use the crankshaft clamp you remove the backplate of the engine, put piston to top dead center then pop the tool inside the engine. It keeps the rod from rotating and allows you to tighten up the crank nut. Some people just use a rag inserted into the engine crankcase to keep the rotating parts from rotating. Your build looks good Taco. I put two tanks thru my nx4 today breaking in a fresh engine. Really a fun heli and I hope you enjoy your nitro adventure
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Old 01-14-2017, 06:15 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Nice Build of a Really Cool little Nitro. It's a good little helicopter that's cheap to run and maintain. I Love my NX4.

My tip for you is take your time tuning the engine making little adjustments at a time. Lots of smoke and a little spitting of fuel out of the muffler. 30% nitro is the easiest to tune and makes the most power with the 37.
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Old 01-15-2017, 02:13 PM   #12 (permalink)
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I don't know if this is an issue, but I'm pretty sure the pre-installed clunk line is longer than what's in the manual. The manual says 73mm, and the tank is about 90mm long, so the clunk shouldn't be able to touch the end right? In mine, the clunk can lay on the far end, plus some extra slack in the tube. It's hard to see, but if I hold up a flashlight I can kind of see the shadow and the tube is definitely bent. If I had to guess, it looks like about 100mm.

Should I attempt to take it apart or will I just break something?
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Old 01-15-2017, 03:10 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Made some progress but I'm kind of stuck on the fuel tank/tubing. (See below)












The most difficult part of the build so far was installing these rubber things.






Is it ok to route the fuel line through here like this? I'm wondering why they put the main outlet there. It seems like kind of an awkward place.




Some tubing is supposed to go from the pipe to this nipple with no hole. What is the point of this?

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Old 01-15-2017, 05:35 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Looks like you'll have to punch a hole in that barb otherwise your tank won't be pressurized. Probably heating up a sewing needle or try using an exacto knife and scraping the top of the fitting would work. I have my clunk just hitting the bottom back curve of the fuel tank. You should be able to move the tank in any orientation without the clunk hanging up anywhere. If you can do this already you're going to be okay. Keep in mind the stock Gaui clunk line is really small and fragile. I replaced mine from the get go with clunk line from an Align 600n. Also, your fuel line location is fine.

Putting those rubber bumpers for holding the fuel tank in place is brutal! Whoever designed that should be required to do them until they come up with a better idea.
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Old 01-15-2017, 06:04 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Ok so there should be a hole in the top tank fitting. Thanks. Weird how they would go through the trouble of installing the clunk but not bother to just poke that hole. I actually ordered some tube for the clunk line before I realized it was pre-assembled.

I'm installing servos now, will have pics up later. The arms for my servos only go to 17mm instead of 18mm like the manual states, but the geometry looks fine to me so I'm going to go ahead and use them.

The clunk does seem to get hung up sometimes. I'll try to take it apart. If I break it, oh well. The whole assembly is only $10.
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Old 01-15-2017, 06:46 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Save yourself the hassle later and use a Lynx tank nipple. I actually have a (new) extra I'd like to donate to your build if you're interested.
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Old 01-15-2017, 07:18 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbobb1 View Post
Save yourself the hassle later and use a Lynx tank nipple. I actually have a (new) extra I'd like to donate to your build if you're interested.
sure, that would be great, thanks!
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Old 01-15-2017, 09:01 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Alright, I'm done for the day. I ordered a new tank, and because I can't order just one thing, I also got the carbon fiber tail front pushrod upgrade... and because I was feeling extra impulsive, I threw in the Gaui muffler too.

Despite ordering a new tank, I couldn't leave the old one alone and did manage to get the clunk out using 2 screwdrivers and some sweat and determination. I was right about it being too long (well, longer than the manual says) at about 85mm. I haven't put it back together. I'll probably just save it for spares.






Anyway here are the pics from today (taken before disassembling the tank obviously):

I put some electrical tape on the top tube to keep it from getting cut by the frame.








Servos ready for centering



First time plugging in the iKON. Centering the servos.





Servos installed, double checking centering. I've just noticed the black/red/silver/white theme here. The heli, servos, iKON, my laptop and even that quilt my uncle made in the background.




Cyclic servos all done.

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Old 01-16-2017, 10:39 AM   #19 (permalink)
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Make sure to put a filter into the fuel line from the tank to the carb. Align makes a nice 3 way filter which functions as a fueling port and a line clamp. If you aren't using some sort of glow plug ignitor try using one of these.

http://grandrc.com/Nitro-Accessories...duct_info.html

align filter:

http://www.aligntrexstore.com/3-Way-...22-_p_445.html

On second thought that Align filter is pretty long and might not work well. EDIT I just checked my heli and that Align filter will work fine.

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Old 01-16-2017, 10:48 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Nothing like building a New Heli.. I have 2 of these One OS55 powered and One OS37 powered.. You will be hooked sir...
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