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NX4 Discussion and support of the Gaui NX4 Nitro Helicopter


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Old 01-26-2017, 01:09 PM   #41 (permalink)
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I'm just weary of the plastic fan because I broke two fins on mine without crashing. Mild vibrations started and by the time i figured that out, i darn near sold the heli. The metal ones are heavier and help the heli idle smoother for one. They stay straighter in my opinion, but I didn't have the plastic one that long as I mentioned above. I just use regular 2 part ca to attach my magnets to teh metal ones, and it works really well. I really can't remember, maybe they even come pre-installed. I'll look later.

To be honest I hate telling people to buy stuff they don't need. My smoothest nitro is my synergy n5c which has a plastic fan that works flawlessly. So please don't run out and buy the red fan just to buy it. I would just keep an eye on it.
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Old 01-26-2017, 01:32 PM   #42 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bgymr View Post
I'm just weary of the plastic fan because I broke two fins on mine without crashing. Mild vibrations started and by the time i figured that out, i darn near sold the heli. The metal ones are heavier and help the heli idle smoother for one. They stay straighter in my opinion, but I didn't have the plastic one that long as I mentioned above. I just use regular 2 part ca to attach my magnets to teh metal ones, and it works really well. I really can't remember, maybe they even come pre-installed. I'll look later.

To be honest I hate telling people to buy stuff they don't need. My smoothest nitro is my synergy n5c which has a plastic fan that works flawlessly. So please don't run out and buy the red fan just to buy it. I would just keep an eye on it.
Ha, as you can see in this thread, I buy plenty of stuff I don't need. But I think I'll pass on the $21 fan for now. Mostly because I don't want to have to take the engine out. I will definitely keep it in mind though for if/when the superglued magnets fly off and destroy the plastic fan. I've heard that can happen. I put a little layer of glue over top of them so hopefully that will keep them in place. I will be keeping an eye on them.
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Old 01-27-2017, 08:21 PM   #43 (permalink)
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I installed the Lynx nipple (there's got to be a better word for that ) and m.o.a.s. a few days ago. The lynx tubing was a PAIN - literally - to install, and I had to do it multiple times because I didn't cut it short enough the first time. My fingers were sore for a while after all that. Seems like the tubing should be a tiny bit bigger.

I also got the header tank. I was going to use the o.s. clunk in it, but it was all pre-assembled so I decided not to bother.

If using this nipple, I would highly suggest installing like the pic below. First get the rubber thing installed on the tank, and then push the metal nipple part in. I at first made the mistake of putting the rubber part on the nipple and then trying to install it all together on the tank. I gave up and did it the other way, which was much easier. (though getting the rubber part back off the metal thing was a pain)



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Old 01-28-2017, 01:24 AM   #44 (permalink)
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I'm too tired to do pics right now but everything is done except fbl setup and throttle setup.

However I have a problem. I cannot figure out how to make the throttle setup work from fully closed to fully open without bumping into the exhaust pipe and/or getting into a weird position where the arms and pushrod are near parallel so it loses leverage. I think I'm going to have to find a ball that screws directly into the arm ( instead of using a separate screw and nut) and doesn't stick out the other side more than a few mm. That should give clearance for the arm to point straight down.

or possibly add some sort of spacer to the carb arm.
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Old 01-28-2017, 07:23 AM   #45 (permalink)
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I'm curios to see your throttle pics. Maybe you servo horn ball spacing is on the long side? I haven't had any problem hitting the pipe.
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Old 01-28-2017, 10:20 AM   #46 (permalink)
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ok here is my issue:


So, I need to either find a ball which doesn't require a nut () or find a thinner nut and cut the bolt. I'm sure I can find something around the house.

I also tried running it "upside down" to keep the servo ball from rubbing the canopy, but the fan shroud got in the way of the throttle arm.


This is fully open with the ball bolt just 1-2mm away from touching the pipe, but....




...it doesn't fully close without getting into this position. Any further and servo arm loses leverage and doesn't control the throttle arm. It has the opposite problem with the throttle arm on the other side of the pipe. So, I need the arm to be able to swing past the pipe.

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Old 01-28-2017, 11:45 AM   #47 (permalink)
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I used a thinner nut and cut down the screw. Close fit but it clears the pipe.
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Old 01-28-2017, 11:56 AM   #48 (permalink)
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Fixed it. I forgot the engine throttle arm came with a screw-in ball, so I used that. Still had to sand it down a little. It is a little bigger than the stock ball and I broke 2 links trying to get them on, but once on it's fine. So that's a total of 3 broken links for the build . It's good thing I got that carbon pushrod. It came with links. I have no more spare links so will probably throw that in next time I order something.

I'll take pics of the fuel tubing and stuff after I eat lunch. And then I can move on to electronics and fbl set up.





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Old 01-28-2017, 01:59 PM   #49 (permalink)
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Fuel stuff:
To secure the header tank, I put 2 layers of gray foam 3M tape on the strip of carbon fiber and stuck the header tank to that and then wrapped around a couple zipties. For a bit of extra security, I stuck a strip of clear 3M tape under each ziptie. (You can see it in the pic below)




And some more pics just for fun.





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Old 01-28-2017, 02:07 PM   #50 (permalink)
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Looking good! You'll want to move that pinch clamp over to the line going into the carb. When fueling, you don't want to pump fuel straight into the engine.
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Old 01-28-2017, 02:16 PM   #51 (permalink)
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Looking good! You'll want to move that pinch clamp over to the line going into the carb. When fueling, you don't want to pump fuel straight into the engine.
Oooh ok thanks. I assumed that part was for pinching the line but I wasn't sure why. I knew the pointy end was to plug the fueling line. I thought the pinch end was maybe for emergency or something.

But that reminds me I have no idea how to get fuel into the tank(s). Time to do more research...
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Old 01-28-2017, 02:26 PM   #52 (permalink)
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You'll need a pump. i have a manual that screws on top of the fuel jug. I think is a Dubro.
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Old 01-28-2017, 02:30 PM   #53 (permalink)
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I got mine at experienceRC.com
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Old 01-28-2017, 02:32 PM   #54 (permalink)
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thanks
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Old 01-28-2017, 03:20 PM   #55 (permalink)
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Ok, I just ordered:
Align super starter, scratch-n-dent special for $75
4 gallons of Rotor Rage 30% (shipping that stuff is brutal )
Hanger 9 hand crank fuel pump.

I believe that is the last of what I need to get this thing in the air. So now I just need to do the setup and wait for warmer weather.
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Old 01-28-2017, 04:45 PM   #56 (permalink)
 

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The zip ties will work but that tape will not hold as soon as you get oil from the exhaust on it. Maybe try some RTV.
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Old 01-28-2017, 06:41 PM   #57 (permalink)
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Quote:
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The zip ties will work but that tape will not hold as soon as you get oil from the exhaust on it. Maybe try some RTV.
I wondered about that. I'll probably just leave it for now and keep an eye on it. The tape is more there as a precaution anyway. The zip ties are what really holds it on.
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Old 01-28-2017, 07:21 PM   #58 (permalink)
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Didn't your header tank come with a holder?
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Old 01-28-2017, 07:49 PM   #59 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Didn't your header tank come with a holder?
yes, but I would have to drill into the frame and find a bolt, nut, and spacer to make it work. It was simpler to just zip tie it.
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Old 01-29-2017, 07:43 AM   #60 (permalink)
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No drilling necessary, just some type of spacing and a longer screw. Thought I'd share how I have mine mounted.

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