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130X Blade 130X Helicopters Information and Help


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Old 04-09-2017, 02:37 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Dx7s not binding to 130x

As I wait for parts for my one 130x, I tried to take my other one out for a flight today and low and behold, I can't get the Tx to bind nor pick up the signal. This is strange because I was able to test hover the heli yesterday in my house and all looked good. But all of a sudden today, when I tried to bind my Tx to the 130x because I adjusted some values, it wouldn't connect. Nor would it if I just wanted to connect normally w/o binding (though this did result in a few that did connect but something seemed off). I tried different batteries, distance of Tx from heli, nothing. A quick google tells me this came up before and most fixed it w/ moving the Tx to touching the heli but that didn't work for me.

I did all of those with BOTH 130X AND SAME RESULT. However, it seems to work fine for my nano cps.

Knowing that the description could mean many things, I took 2 videos.

First is showing the binding process. The video picks up just as I snap the battery in. As you can see, I do the binding process by holding trainer and powering up. Then I do bottom right throttle. See results:



Next video just shows it trying to connect normally, not binding but just as you would on any given flight by turning on Tx, waiting a few seconds and then plugging battery in. See results:



I'm not sure what all of those blinking lights mean, does anyone have any clue?

I think this is either a 130x setting on my Tx or something's up w/ both of my 130x's. which I do find unlikely. I'm posting in the 130x forum first before I try to Spektrum forum.

Also note that I did try and reset the model memory and re-inputted from scratch all values and get the same result.

This is beyond frustrating since it's the same condition for both 130x's...Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks!
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Last edited by howaboutme; 04-09-2017 at 02:40 PM.. Reason: adding cps info
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Old 04-09-2017, 03:32 PM   #2 (permalink)
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The flashing of different colors usually says you've gotten into the gain programming mode, but you usually do that by applying full throttle.

http://www.bladehelis.com/ProdInfo/F..._Gyro_menu.pdf

I wouldn't give any rudder stick when you're trying to bind. Just zero throttle, with rudder/yaw left at center.

If that doesn't do it, maybe the TX isn't outputting a low enough throttle value at zero stick. For example, you likely couldn't bind if you're using a TX idle-up mode where the TX is set for a flat throttle curve. EDIT: Well, I guess I don't know what the TX does when you have that bind/trainer switch flipped at turn-on. Maybe that overrides the throttle curve.
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Last edited by helibus; 04-09-2017 at 03:56 PM..
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Old 04-09-2017, 03:47 PM   #3 (permalink)
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For future reference, you don't have to rebind when you change settings..
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Old 04-09-2017, 03:49 PM   #4 (permalink)
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It's been a while since I've had my 130x, but I think I remember, some people having to apply right rudder during the binding process. Rudder, and, bind switch, then turn on the radio.

Try it a few different ways. Like mentioned above, with no rudder, then maybe left rudder?
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Old 04-09-2017, 04:12 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Thanks for the responses. I tested binding by not holding rudder to lower right but kept it at center stick w/ a slight left and it seemed to bind. However, the heli doesn't seem to respond right. None of the stick movements are correct. The servos all seem to be stuck or slow to respond. Not to mention, I've always bound by lower right stick (as does the manual state).

Secondly, after "binding", I unplugged the battery and turned off the Tx. Then I turned on the Tx and plugged in the battery to see if the heli will connect. It does NOT. In fact, the board gives both red and blue LED flashes.

Also, something else I noticed. The Tx does NOT seem to know when I have TH on. It does show me change from N to FM-1 but not w/ TH. This is strange because it does show I am in TH for my nano cps model memory.

This is happening on both 130x's. This is telling me that this is potentially a Tx issue? But the Tx seems fine for my nano cps...Is there a way to reset just this model memory? Shall I check by creating another, totally separate model? Like I said, I did reset this particular model earlier to nothing.

The only change from last night, when I test hovered the 130x, is that I charged the Tx. Would that create a glitch?

Any thoughts? I may have to post in the Spektrum forum...

Thanks!
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Old 04-09-2017, 04:22 PM   #6 (permalink)
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One quick edit on the TH issues above..I looked at my 3rd model, which is for my SIM, and it doesn't show I am in TH when I flick it on..So now I'm not sure that's anything other than a setting? Just another thought.

Thanks
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Old 04-09-2017, 04:22 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by howaboutme View Post
... Not to mention, I've always bound by lower right stick (as does the manual state).
Interesting. That's not in my manual, but I think the manual (and 3-in-1) that I have came from a very early 130x.

Quote:
Is there a way to reset just this model memory? Shall I check by creating another, totally separate model? Like I said, I did reset this particular model earlier to nothing.

The only change from last night, when I test hovered the 130x, is that I charged the Tx. Would that create a glitch?
Charging the TX shouldn't have mattered, unless the TX battery was already woefully low when it tried to save settings when you powered it off.

I'm not familiar with the Dx7s, but I know the DX6i has a reputation for corrupting a model in ways that you can't see. I'd try creating a new model from scratchas the most robust thing you can try, without copying from the model you've been trying to use.
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Last edited by helibus; 04-09-2017 at 04:35 PM..
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Old 04-09-2017, 04:36 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Creating a totally new model is easy enough to try? Program it from an empty model.
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Old 04-09-2017, 05:53 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Ok guys..I think a new model worked.

Very strange! Both helis seem fine. I'll try a quick hover later but on the bench sees fine and all servos worked.

One thing I did notice in more detail is the setting for TH. In the manual, it states Throttle Cut "inhibit". But that's not true. I had no TH if that was the case. I had to change that to Hold, position zero, which makes total sense to me.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Liduno View Post
For future reference, you don't have to rebind when you change settings..
And..I didn't realize this, above. I was under the impression that when any values change in the Tx, we have to rebind. Is the fact that we do NOT have to rebind true for all Blade?

And...to clarify, the lower right rudder are the instructions for the nano. I'm wondering if I mistakenly entered programming mode w/ all of my stick movements during binding that really screwed everything up?

Anyways, thank you!
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Old 04-09-2017, 05:59 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by howaboutme View Post
Ok guys..I think a new model worked.

Very strange! Both helis seem fine. I'll try a quick hover later but on the bench sees fine and all servos worked.

One thing I did notice in more detail is the setting for TH. In the manual, it states Throttle Cut "inhibit". But that's not true. I had no TH if that was the case. I had to change that to Hold, position zero, which makes total sense to me.



And..I didn't realize this, above. I was under the impression that when any values change in the Tx, we have to rebind. Is the fact that we do NOT have to rebind true for all Blade?

And...to clarify, the lower right rudder are the instructions for the nano. I'm wondering if I mistakenly entered programming mode w/ all of my stick movements during binding that really screwed everything up?

Anyways, thank you!
Correct you don't need to rebind when changing settings.

I doubt you entered programing modes by mistake. If I remember correctly, there is a way to go back to default settings. I believe it's in the manual.
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Old 04-09-2017, 06:10 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Liduno View Post
Correct you don't need to rebind when changing settings.

I doubt you entered programing modes by mistake. If I remember correctly, there is a way to go back to default settings. I believe it's in the manual.
Thanks!

Yes, I believe I took everything to default based on the instructions. But I did that before I finalized everything so I may try again to make sure.

PS. Every time I see your location it reminds me of home. I grew up in Lake Worth...long long time ago.
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Old 04-09-2017, 06:39 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Liduno View Post
...If I remember correctly, there is a way to go back to default settings. I believe it's in the manual.
Regardless of manual versions, going back to default gain settings is in the manual addendum that I linked to in post #2. It's been forever since I've messed with the gain settings, but I sort of thought the alternating color pattern in the video might have actually been the 3-in-1's way of telling you it is using the default gain settings. The addendum is vague - "The Red, Green and Blue LEDs will blink in a sequence to indicate the default settings are active".

EDIT: To clarify, these gain settings are within the 3-in-1. They are not TX settings. You access the gain programming mode via particular stick movements...
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Old 04-09-2017, 07:17 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by howaboutme View Post
Thanks!

Yes, I believe I took everything to default based on the instructions. But I did that before I finalized everything so I may try again to make sure.

PS. Every time I see your location it reminds me of home. I grew up in Lake Worth...long long time ago.
Lake worth isn't what it used to be...lol
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Old 04-09-2017, 07:18 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by helibus View Post
Regardless of manual versions, going back to default gain settings is in the manual addendum that I linked to in post #2. It's been forever since I've messed with the gain settings, but I sort of thought the alternating color pattern in the video might have actually been the 3-in-1's way of telling you it is using the default gain settings. The addendum is vague - "The Red, Green and Blue LEDs will blink in a sequence to indicate the default settings are active".

EDIT: To clarify, these gain settings are within the 3-in-1. They are not TX settings. You access the gain programming mode via particular stick movements...
Yes, understood what was said. I was referring to your link.

I just tested both helis again and it looks like bot are back to default. It looks like I've solved this issue..phew!

Appreciate everyone's help!
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Old 04-09-2017, 07:19 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Liduno View Post
Lake worth isn't what it used to be...lol
A lot has changed for sure. My folks still live down there, west of Jog road.

Thanks for your help!
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Old 04-09-2017, 07:31 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by howaboutme View Post
A lot has changed for sure. My folks still live down there, west of Jog road.

Thanks for your help!
The further west you go the better it gets.
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Old 04-09-2017, 08:02 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Liduno View Post
The further west you go the better it gets.
Yep, how ironic..better as you go AWAY from the ocean...

year round flying down there though!
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Old 04-10-2017, 07:33 AM   #18 (permalink)
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One quick follow up to this that I have since learned. Because I have my Normal mode throttle curve as an inverted parabola, the heli never understood where zero throttle was, which may have been why keeping it at lower stick messed up binding.

As a result, I have learned that I should keep normal throttle as suggested, linear, something like 0,25,50,75,100 and then adjust play with different curves in UI1 (dx7s only has UI1).

I've also learned that the failsafe for the board is where ever my throttle stick is when binding. Since I've since bind at mid-stick because of my curve, I will re-bind w/ lower stick and see what happens (hopefully not).
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