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Old 04-23-2017, 08:41 AM   #81 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.Andersen View Post
You mean the 2mm thick carbon plates holding the blade to the metal part of the grip?
I'll have to measure mine, but I think they're 4mm thick. Virtually zero flex.

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Old 04-23-2017, 01:13 PM   #82 (permalink)
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Quote:
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With all due respect Stark... Anytime a blade goes flying off from a head it typically results in an explosion no matter what the make or head design it is. Check this video of an X3 that exploded after a blade came off because of the spindle bolt getting unscrewed...
With all due respect — in both the videos you posted, the grips stayed together. The X3 failure was caused by the blade itself failing, and the X7 by the mainshaft snapping by the look of it. Also, both seemed to survive with less damage than this Exo (check the X7 vid; the main body somersaulted, smashed the tail into the ground, and was still mostly in one piece).

—————

So it sounds like the rigid head makes for great performance, but vibration damping is really quite useful.
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Old 04-23-2017, 02:18 PM   #83 (permalink)
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Just clean the center hub and bolts and use Loctite 243 like you should on all helicopters and you will never have any problems. (Alcohol isnīt the best way, brake cleaner spray or even acetone work much better)

Vibrations arenīt the cause.
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Old 04-28-2017, 04:26 PM   #84 (permalink)
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Anyone have an extra battery tray I could buy. I only have the one I got with the kit and its a pain to switch out lipos. Please

Thanks
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Old 04-29-2017, 03:09 AM   #85 (permalink)
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Yesterday i took apart the rotorhesd i buildt last week to check the tightness of the radial bearing against the grip as i did not loctite those into place.
To my supprice one og the spindle bolts came out easy an the threadloc had not cured against the hub.
On the othet side the threadlock had cured half the length of the bolt.
So now i have cleand the hub and bolts again and testfittet the bolts with liberal amount of loctite to see if it cures.
Tomorrow i will take it apart again to see of it helped.
Im glad i did take the head apart becouse it could been a nasty suprice in the air.
The strange thing here is the fact im using a brand new bottle of Loctite 243 and not the old 243 i bought back in 2008 that still cures.
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Old 04-29-2017, 09:30 AM   #86 (permalink)
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That is interesting. Make sure you clean everything completely after your test. Do you shake your thread lock before you use it?

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Old 04-29-2017, 12:34 PM   #87 (permalink)
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Yes i shaked the bottle first, not much but i did shake it.
If the bottle is the issue nothing else i threadlocked that day should cure but it did.
I might be wrong but i think i have an idea what caused these.
The threads in teh hub are slightly larger then the threads on the bolts so the bolt sit acually loosely in the hole befor thightening it up.Maybe that gap is enought to get air in between the threads and threadlock to prevent it from curing.
I did not apply liberal with loctite the first time to prevent a mess but i remember putting more in one side then the other.
The loctite did cure between the bolt and washer on bought sides, just not against the hub.
As said, i might be wrong and on remooval of the bolts tomorrow i will know the answere.
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Old 04-29-2017, 01:34 PM   #88 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.Andersen View Post
Yes i shaked the bottle first, not much but i did shake it.
If the bottle is the issue nothing else i threadlocked that day should cure but it did.
I might be wrong but i think i have an idea what caused these.
The threads in teh hub are slightly larger then the threads on the bolts so the bolt sit acually loosely in the hole befor thightening it up.Maybe that gap is enought to get air in between the threads and threadlock to prevent it from curing.
I did not apply liberal with loctite the first time to prevent a mess but i remember putting more in one side then the other.
The loctite did cure between the bolt and washer on bought sides, just not against the hub.
As said, i might be wrong and on remooval of the bolts tomorrow i will know the answere.
I'd try a new hub/spindle, if I were you. I'm confused about your placement of thread lock. I make sure nothing gets on the washer. I don't recall any slop between the screw and the threads.

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Old 04-29-2017, 01:55 PM   #89 (permalink)
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I had some threadlock inside the hole appyed with a toothpick an a thin layer on the screw wiped off with my finger.
Normally thats more then enough.
Now when i fittet the bolts i put much more inside the hole and a thicker layer on the bolts and threadlock was oozing out when tightened down.
But these time theres no grips on and i did it to check if it made a difference.
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Old 04-29-2017, 02:41 PM   #90 (permalink)
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I think cleaing the main hub and the bolts is the most important thing. As mentioned before, I use break cleaning spray or aceton on a paper towel. I clean the mainrotor hub 2-3 times till there is no more visible oil on the towel. The same with the bolt.

Then I apply a lot of locite on the bolt. Theres always pressed a bit out of the thread when tightening the bolt.

This procedure is much more important on smaller helis cause of the much lower friction in the thread of the bolt. On larger helis, the thread has more friction that secures the bolt more or less by itself.
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Old 04-29-2017, 03:10 PM   #91 (permalink)
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I have been usingc rubbing alcohol with success since 2008 but i think i will get a bottle og aceton next week.
Whatever it takes to be shure.
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Old 04-29-2017, 04:07 PM   #92 (permalink)
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I'm of the less is more category. Sometimes, especially with red, I put little puddle on the bench, then dip the screw in it. That makes sure I don't over apply red. I think in my Chronos build thread I show just how little red I use.

Now, about globbing on thread locker. If you choose this method, you must be sure that nothing and I mean nothing gets on the radial bearing. It will ruin that bearing for good. The only way to limit risk of thread lock getting on the radial bearing on this helicopter is to slide one grip on and then hold the grip all the way in against the hub as you tighten the screw.

I'm afraid Keven and I will have to agree to disagree on the amount of thread lock to use.

One thing I did notice is this: The aluminum used for all cross members, etc., tends to cure my blue thread lock much faster. In the time it took to take two pictures, sometimes the thread lock was partially cured.

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Old 04-29-2017, 04:45 PM   #93 (permalink)
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Yes, you have to be careful with the bearing. With some experience you know how much will be pushed out of the thread and doesnīt harm the bearing. Cleaning it up after partially tighthening the bolt may be necessary.

I use more threadlock here, cause I donīt want to tighten the bolt to much as it weakens it. You can easily cut the maximum load-bearing capacity in half by overthightening the bolt.

Also, the used 7075 aluminium on the main rotor hub is not as reaction happy with loctite like normal steel.
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Old 04-29-2017, 04:50 PM   #94 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keven Schauz View Post
Yes, you have to be careful with the bearing. With some experience you know how much will be pushed out of the thread and doesnīt harm the bearing. Cleaning it up after partially tighthening the bolt may be necessary.

I use more threadlock here, cause I donīt want to tighten the bolt to much as it weakens it. You can easily cut the maximum load-bearing capacity in half by overthightening the bolt.

Also, the used 7075 aluminium on the main rotor hub is not as reaction happy with loctite like normal steel.
All you said was common sense. Thank you for that. I'm sure others will read and heed.

My statement was one of caution. I have a lot of experience, too.

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Old 04-29-2017, 04:57 PM   #95 (permalink)
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All you said was common sense. Thank you for that. I'm sure others will read and heed.

My statement was one of caution. I have a lot of experience, too.

Scott
Yes, better to mention this before someone is destroying his bearings with loctite. No doubt you would use the right amount anyway
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Old 04-29-2017, 05:53 PM   #96 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keven Schauz View Post
Also, the used 7075 aluminium on the main rotor hub is not as reaction happy with loctite like normal steel.
That might be the case here.
And thanks for all info donkonu23 and Keven Schauz.
I think applying liberal amout is the way and i will take care to protect the radial bearings in the grips.
BTW, today i have had a good day at the feald flying my Warp 360 and have huge expectations for the EXO when i get it ready.
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Old 04-29-2017, 09:58 PM   #97 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.Andersen View Post
That might be the case here.
And thanks for all info donkonu23 and Keven Schauz.
I think applying liberal amout is the way and i will take care to protect the radial bearings in the grips.
BTW, today i have had a good day at the feald flying my Warp 360 and have huge expectations for the EXO when i get it ready.
If you use a lot of the thread lock, make sure you give it plenty of time to cure. Shake well, too!

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Old 04-30-2017, 03:12 AM   #98 (permalink)
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Now tomorrow is today and i have removed the bolts i put in yesterday and they was hard to get out.
Look like to much is better then to litle here.
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Old 04-30-2017, 03:41 PM   #99 (permalink)
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Good deal!

Scott
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Old 04-30-2017, 04:31 PM   #100 (permalink)
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Yeah, I'm pretty sure those aren't coming out in flight
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