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Old 05-01-2017, 07:26 AM   #101 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by dunkonu23 View Post
If you use a lot of the thread lock, make sure you give it plenty of time to cure. Shake well, too!

Scott
These is a helicopter under building so it will take weeks befor it get in the air.
Im a slow builder and allso have other helis to fly and service in adition to all the other stuff im doing, but it will get there.
And to protect the radial bearings from gettingt threadlock on them in adition to put the grips as far in on the hub i can get i have greased the shilding surface of the bearings.
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Old 05-01-2017, 12:28 PM   #102 (permalink)
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It have to be noted when over applying loctite liberally her, it comes with its own risks.
Not only could loctite get into the bearings but allso between the bearing and hub.
On first attempt i got loctite between bearing and hub on the tail so i dissasembled everything and grease on the shiledingside of the bearing had a blue color on it so the grease did its job there.
Now everything is cleaned and reassembled and i used a litle less loctite and greased the outside of the hub in adition to the bearing sides.
It remides me a little of the first version of the tailhub assembly of the Logo 600SX with spacers that according to manual had to be greased inside befor putting the bolt holding the grip in place thrue it, a bolt that was going to have loctite on it.
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Old 05-01-2017, 05:01 PM   #103 (permalink)
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Default Pre-flight checks

Is distressing to hear anytime one of our fellow pilots crashes but I'm encouraged by the amount of support that is appearing on this thread.

A long time ago a full size heli pilot told me "Heli's aren't made for flying, they are made for crashing." The discussion revolved around how complex heli systems are and the stersses that are put on them and that proper maintanence was absolutely required or you'd have real serious problems.

I've learned to conduct a full pre-flight inspection before I fly a heli because you just don't know what came loose, moved a little bit or cracked on the previous flight. Even if you just landed and are swapping a new battery in you've got to pre-flight the heli again. My most recent experience was a swash ball that had started to back out after many flights and I caught it during an inspection. Had I flown that heli I'd be rebuilding it the next week. It only takes a few minutes but it's a practice that can save you lots of time and $$.
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Old 05-03-2017, 11:10 AM   #104 (permalink)
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I used the stick Loctite on my eXo build. First time I've ever used it. Sure enough when I checked last night the screws that secure the blade grips were backing out. Checked several other screws and they were still fully tight, but didn't have that good *snap* when trying to loosen them. They just had a resistance when backing them out. It was a real pain but I removed every Loctited screw, cleaned everything with alcohol, and reinstalled using liquid Loctite. I threw the stick right in the trash and would never use it again.
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Old 05-03-2017, 09:50 PM   #105 (permalink)
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I checked mine and replaced the stick with the liquid. No "break" to get the screw loose for me either. Dan
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Old 06-23-2017, 12:02 PM   #106 (permalink)
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Had maiden on my Exo yesterday and awake and aware of the spindle bolts i cheked them after each flight.
Maiden was done slow and gentle to set tailgain so a few takeoffs and landings to adjust gain and some slow cirquet befor landing again.
Timer was set for 2 1/2 minutes becouse its a 12S setup with small 1800mAh batteries and i dont know how long flight times i will get from it.

Next flight i set the timer at 3 1/2 minuts and let it rip.
Increadible fast and powerful heli and even if i did not run it highter then 2450 rpm headspeed it was the most powerfull heli i have flown and realy like how it fly and behave.

However after second flight one of the spindle bolts had come loose when checking.
I have a suspect how it may have happened.
One of my grips did not turn smooth and the outer race of the thrust bearing was rubbing against the grips, nor hard but ruubbing.
It is suppose to run free and i though it would just wear in but abviously it have started to turn the bolt when applying alot of cyclic.
And yes it was that grip where the grip did not run free that came loose.
Luckily the threadlock had still held the bolt in place but something have to be done here.
My plan now is to use some old spindle bolts from a Logo 500 and shorten them down to fit the Exo hub and i will use loctite 270 aka red threadlock to hold the bolts.
As there is only metal parts in the grips i dont see a problem of having to heat the bolt ore hub to get it out again.
I have allso filed down the outer race of the thrust bearing with a diamond file to run free in the grips so no more rubbing.
These is a to fun heli to fly to let it explode in the air from a backed out spindle bolt.
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Old 06-23-2017, 04:20 PM   #107 (permalink)
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My spindle bolts are still tight after 64 flights so I must've done something right. I wouldn't hesitate to use red loctite though if they also had come loose.
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Old 06-23-2017, 04:42 PM   #108 (permalink)
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If bought your grips was turning free then most possible the culprit here was the outer race of the thrust bearing running to tight against the grip making the inner race of the outer radial bearing turn against the spindle washer and bolt when applying cyclic.
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Old 06-26-2017, 11:35 AM   #109 (permalink)
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While i put the rotorhead of my Exo back on the heli yesterday i put a M4 nut on an M4 bolt with Loctite 270 to see how strong it was.
Today 24 hour later i forced the nut off and my normal go to hex driver did not get enough grip in my hand to force it apart.
Had to put the bolt in a vice grip and use a spanner to get the nut off so i cant see how the bolts are going to get out by themself these time.
Maybe i even have to cut the hub to get the grips off but its 12,40$ well spend to be secure the bolts dont back out.
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Old 06-26-2017, 04:16 PM   #110 (permalink)
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The helicopter is extremely quick and powerful. I'm lowering my headspeeds. 2300 in idle 1 is just too much for me.

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Old 06-26-2017, 05:20 PM   #111 (permalink)
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What headspeeds are you flying at dunkonu23?
The second flight and the flight i realy flew it i had 2430 rpm and it was insane.
So i hope the weather is good in the weekend as i can't fly until then and i hope Compass releeses a 18T pinion so i dont have to run 55% gov.
Not that its an issue as i use a Kontronik ESC but higher governed will make the motor run more efissient.
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Old 06-26-2017, 06:05 PM   #112 (permalink)
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What headspeeds are you flying at dunkonu23?
The second flight and the flight i realy flew it i had 2430 rpm and it was insane.
So i hope the weather is good in the weekend as i can fly until then and i hope Compass releeses a 18T pinion so i dont have to run 55% gov.
Not that its an issue as i use a Kontronik ESC but higher governed will make the motor run more efissient.
2300 in idle 1, 2500 in idle 2. I'm not good enough for either head speed on my EXO. My spotter, a former Compass team member mentioned the head speed immediately after I hit idle 2. I honestly think it's much higher than 2300 in idle 1 and stupid high in idle 2 (that was tached, but by someone else). I think the important thing I need to have head speeds in my wheel house. So, one crash after 30 flights. It is amazing how well the helicopter held up, though -- it was a hard crash and then a chicken dance because of the way I had (operative word HAD) hold setup.

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Old 06-26-2017, 11:49 PM   #113 (permalink)
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I was using the pyro 600-09 for this heli. in my opinion its the perfect kv motor for those head speed keeping it around 80-85% on the esc. I had that pyro send in for a longer shaft for the exo
As mr mel calc, sweet spot is 2364
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Old 06-27-2017, 01:49 AM   #114 (permalink)
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Do the motorshaft have to be reacing thrue the support bearing when the pinion go thrue anyway
Mine don't but end up just above.
But you are right about the KV konsidering the stock gearing.
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Old 06-27-2017, 04:18 AM   #115 (permalink)
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Do the motorshaft have to be reacing thrue the support bearing when the pinion go thrue anyway
Mine don't but end up just above.
But you are right about the KV konsidering the stock gearing.
At first we thought the motor shaft had to bottom out in the motor pulley, but later we came to the conclusion it didn't have to bottom out.

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Old 06-27-2017, 06:59 AM   #116 (permalink)
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Scott, you should retach for sure. 2350 is the minimum headspeed I run on the EXO and with the 20t pinion and stock motor 2350 is a pretty low throttle output.

I say retach because I have confirmed my 2350 headspeed through 2 independent measurements and it is dead on and 2350 is quite low. The machine is almost dead silent unless it is side-in. Collective response is pretty muted.

I am not a hardcore 3D guy. I like it smooth and fairly slow and I find the machine really wakes up at about 2450RPM or so.

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Old 06-27-2017, 07:28 AM   #117 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Raz0rSh4rp View Post
Scott, you should retach for sure. 2350 is the minimum headspeed I run on the EXO and with the 20t pinion and stock motor 2350 is a pretty low throttle output.

I say retach because I have confirmed my 2350 headspeed through 2 independent measurements and it is dead on and 2350 is quite low. The machine is almost dead silent unless it is side-in. Collective response is pretty muted.

I am not a hardcore 3D guy. I like it smooth and fairly slow and I find the machine really wakes up at about 2450RPM or so.

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I agree. I think the head speed on mine at idle 1 is WAY over 2300. While I've gotten used to it, the helicopter is WAY fast in all things, speed, collective, and cyclic. I even turned down the Vortex to try to compensate. So yeah, the head speed is way off. I just wish I didn't have to crash to prove that to me.

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Old 06-27-2017, 11:15 AM   #118 (permalink)
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You should tune down agility ore cyclic roll rate to tame down cyclic and reduce collective to reduce lift.
It will tame down the heli.
Reducing headspeed only reduce collective responce unless headspeed is so low cyclic can't respond to the commanded inputs.
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Old 06-27-2017, 11:01 PM   #119 (permalink)
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I would respectfully disagree.

Lowering the headspeed does tame down a machine.

It has to be done within reason, but it is another tuning tool, in addition to toning down agility, overall rates, and feed forward, and increasing gain, heavier blades, etc.
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Old 06-28-2017, 06:12 AM   #120 (permalink)
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I would respectfully disagree.

Lowering the headspeed does tame down a machine.

It has to be done within reason, but it is another tuning tool, in addition to toning down agility, overall rates, and feed forward, and increasing gain, heavier blades, etc.
I agree with you disagreeing. Parts came for the EXO yesterday. It helps when you order a half hour after a crash.

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