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Old 08-28-2021, 04:30 PM   #301 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Ace Dude View Post
@Ty89m

If I had to do it all over again I'd take a serious look at the new RC ProPlus system for making servo leads.

https://www.hely-shop.co.uk/rcproplu...-rca1918crimp/

https://www.hely-shop.co.uk/connectors-and-wires/

I'd like to see a closeup of the male terminal they look like their have a round pin on the end so I'm not sure how well they would mate with a standard bergstrip with square pins.
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Old 08-28-2021, 05:27 PM   #302 (permalink)
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I'd like to see a closeup of the male terminal they look like their have a round pin on the end so I'm not sure how well they would mate with a standard bergstrip with square pins.

Here you go.
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Old 08-29-2021, 12:52 AM   #303 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Ty89m View Post
Here you go.

So yeah I cans see issues with that mating with a standard dupont 0.1" female connector. And if the female counterpart is designed for that round pin it will likely have problems mating with square pins on a standard 0.1" pin strip as well.


I mean it looks like a great design but I can't see how it could be compatible with standard servo connectors.
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Old 08-30-2021, 07:08 PM   #304 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Atomic Skull View Post
So yeah I cans see issues with that mating with a standard dupont 0.1" female connector. And if the female counterpart is designed for that round pin it will likely have problems mating with square pins on a standard 0.1" pin strip as well.


I mean it looks like a great design but I can't see how it could be compatible with standard servo connectors.

Atomic - did you have to adjust your HT-95 to get the proper bellmouth on both ends of crimp? Even using the genuine terminals that you linked, I'm only able to get it on one end or the other depending on how I adjust the slider/locator assembly, but not both. I am using an HT-66, which should be the same die as the HT-95 on the 22-26awg side, but perhaps it's not...
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Old 08-31-2021, 07:40 AM   #305 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Ty89m View Post
Atomic - did you have to adjust your HT-95 to get the proper bellmouth on both ends of crimp? Even using the genuine terminals that you linked, I'm only able to get it on one end or the other depending on how I adjust the slider/locator assembly, but not both. I am using an HT-66, which should be the same die as the HT-95 on the 22-26awg side, but perhaps it's not...

There's only supposed to be a bellmouth on the side where the wire strands enter the crimp. There is no need for one on the other side.


The crimps from the HT-95 should look like this:

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Old 08-31-2021, 04:04 PM   #306 (permalink)
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There's only supposed to be a bellmouth on the side where the wire strands enter the crimp. There is no need for one on the other side.


The crimps from the HT-95 should look like this:

Gotcha, I had seen some previous photos you took that showed both ends having the bellmouth (and the HT-95 manual mentions it). I’m surprised to see your clone pins come out so well - my tool deforms/semi crimps the end where the “brush” sticks out, though doesn’t interfere with anything as far as I can tell.
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Old 08-31-2021, 05:16 PM   #307 (permalink)
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Gotcha, I had seen some previous photos you took that showed both ends having the bellmouth (and the HT-95 manual mentions it). I’m surprised to see your clone pins come out so well - my tool deforms/semi crimps the end where the “brush” sticks out, though doesn’t interfere with anything as far as I can tell.

I think you are mis remembering because I never posted any images like that and the HT-95 manual makes no mention of a second bellmouth on the crimp.
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Old 08-31-2021, 05:31 PM   #308 (permalink)
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Official FCI Amphenol Mini-PV terminals crimped onto 22AWG wire. There's actually a problem here, it seems as though some 22AWG servo wire insulation is heavier than 22AWG and this causes problems with the insulation crimp.

I figured out a solution though, crimp the terminal with the HT-0073 first with the insulation lined up between the insulation and conductor crimps then crimp it again with the HT-0095. Results below:



Right two terminals were crimped in HT-0095, left three were crimped in HT-0073 first then crimped again in HT-0095. Note how the insulation crimp doesn't bulge or cut into the insulation.

I bought 50 gold terminals and 50 cheap tin plated ones to practice with first, good thing I did.

The official Mini-PV housings are much nicer than the knockoff ones, the pins fit into the housing with no up and down play or slop. Too bad the knockoff pins won't fit in the official housings.

Also notice how much larger the contact spring is on these terminals than it is on the knockoff ones.

I tested the pull out force with pliers and the amount of force needed to pull out the wire (it breaks off at the conductor crimp rather than pulls out) is about the same as what is required to break the strands.

EDIT: Alternate way if you struggle with getting the position consistent is to place the insulation against the end of the conductor crimp wings which will act as a wire stop (the insulation won't fit inside the conductor crimp). This is technically wrong but I don't see that it would make the crimp any less secure and it fits inside the housing just fine. If it doesn't want to go in grab the bottom edge of the insulation crimp on the terminal with your fingernail and coax it in

Here’s the manual I have: https://foehrenbach.be/wp-content/up...04/HT95Man.pdf

Page 6/15 figure 4.

Doesn’t matter anyway, as my tool won’t produce crimps that look like the manual, so no big deal either way.
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Old 09-01-2021, 11:30 PM   #309 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Ty89m View Post
Here’s the manual I have: https://foehrenbach.be/wp-content/up...04/HT95Man.pdf

Page 6/15 figure 4.

Doesn’t matter anyway, as my tool won’t produce crimps that look like the manual, so no big deal either way.

Ok I see you are correct, however that is with genuine Mini-PV terminals which have a longer crimp area. the "knockoff" terminals (such as the Hansen Hobbies ones) don't have that because the conductor crimp is a little shorter.


The genuine terminals are really great, rated for 1000 cycles but also much more expensive.
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Old 09-03-2021, 12:43 AM   #310 (permalink)
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Ok I see you are correct, however that is with genuine Mini-PV terminals which have a longer crimp area. the "knockoff" terminals (such as the Hansen Hobbies ones) don't have that because the conductor crimp is a little shorter.


The genuine terminals are really great, rated for 1000 cycles but also much more expensive.

Yeah, I ordered a bunch of the genuine terminals that you linked a few pages back (mostly the cheap version to practice, and a handful of the gold terminals). I just received the appropriate hex key to adjust guide pins to get proper crimp. I'll toy around with it and see what I come up with.
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Old 09-03-2021, 10:34 AM   #311 (permalink)
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What’s the trick to using the Hansen crimpers? I’ve tried half dozen of the ones that came in the kit and they keep getting deformed and won’t go into the servo connector.
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Old 09-03-2021, 01:12 PM   #312 (permalink)
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What’s the trick to using the Hansen crimpers? I’ve tried half dozen of the ones that came in the kit and they keep getting deformed and won’t go into the servo connector.
I backed off the crimp adjustment all the way and then slowly increased it until I got what I wanted.

Have you watched their video? They show how to position the terminals.
A picture is worth a thousand words.
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Old 09-03-2021, 04:57 PM   #313 (permalink)
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What’s the trick to using the Hansen crimpers? I’ve tried half dozen of the ones that came in the kit and they keep getting deformed and won’t go into the servo connector.

The trick is to throw them away and get a Hozan P-707 or an IWISS IWS-1442L (which is a chinese copy of the P-707) from which you can expect results like this:





The HT-95 makes slightly better looking crimps but the P-707 is a close second, is reasonably priced and once you get the hang of it you can make perfect repeatable secure crimps over and over (the 1.4mm die is just the right height for 22-26 AWG wire so you can just bear down on it). In fact this is a bonus of a two step crimper, you can crimp the insulation lightly, adjust the position, then finalize the crimp. On the surface it seems like a single step crimper would be more convenient but in practice unless it's official tooling with a wire stop that automatically lines things up it's really not.
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Old 09-03-2021, 05:34 PM   #314 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Atomic Skull View Post
The trick is to throw them away...
So how is it that I can get good crimps using the Hansen crimpers?
Follow their instructions to the letter. Simple.

You're awfully free with other peoples money.
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Old 09-03-2021, 10:22 PM   #315 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by MariaFan View Post
So how is it that I can get good crimps using the Hansen crimpers?
Follow their instructions to the letter. Simple.

You're awfully free with other peoples money.

Compare to the picture in my previous post are the crimps as good as that? $35 for the IWS-1442L tool is a drop in the bucket compared to the overall price of a 700 and worth it for the peace of mind.


The Hansen crimpers were never that good for dupont terminals it's just that for a long time they were the only affordable option. But now we have reasonably priced tools with the correct dies for dupont terminals so I don't know why you'd want to keep using a tool with generic dies that does a merely "ok" job on something as critical as a servo connector.
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