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Old 04-21-2017, 10:01 AM   #41 (permalink)
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Just to round things out, I ordered a set of HT-73 and HT-102. It's amazing that a $1200 tool can be had for $40 or $50.
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Old 04-21-2017, 10:06 AM   #42 (permalink)
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"There is no comparison to the Hansen crimpers. "

Yeah. Real crimpers are $500 ~ $2500 new. Atomic, how do you recommend testing crimps ? My suggestions are:

1) If you pull on the wire, it should break before coming out.

2) Run 2.5 Amps through a male/female pair and measure the voltage drop. Just stick two small sewing needles into the insulation on each side and use a VOM. Should read 7 millivolts or else. Try an equal length of wire with no connector inline.
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Old 04-21-2017, 11:23 AM   #43 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Glenn Goodlett View Post
Just to round things out, I ordered a set of HT-73 and HT-102. It's amazing that a $1200 tool can be had for $40 or $50.
I sure wish I could find these tools that cheap here in the U.K.

That's a great price!!

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Old 04-21-2017, 05:27 PM   #44 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Four Stroker View Post
"There is no comparison to the Hansen crimpers. "

Yeah. Real crimpers are $500 ~ $2500 new. Atomic, how do you recommend testing crimps ? My suggestions are:

1) If you pull on the wire, it should break before coming out.

2) Run 2.5 Amps through a male/female pair and measure the voltage drop. Just stick two small sewing needles into the insulation on each side and use a VOM. Should read 7 millivolts or else. Try an equal length of wire with no connector inline.
I just yank on the wire and see how much force it takes to pull it out. The wire will break first unlike the chinese servo leads I've tested where the conductor pulls out with alarmingly little force. The HT-95 and HT-102 manual has a chart for measuring the conductor crimp barrel diameter. If it's within tolerance it's good. I haven't been able to locate a manual for the HT-73 crimpers. But then these are the actual factory tools and if you can't trust them what can you trust?

Note also that overcrimping is as bad as undercrimping because it weakens the strands. If the wire breaks off at the terminal with suspiciously little force applied then it's over crimped. The chances of that happening with a factory adjusted tool is basically zero however.
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Old 04-21-2017, 05:42 PM   #45 (permalink)
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You guys are taking me back to when Wire Wrap was a big thing!
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Old 04-22-2017, 04:07 AM   #46 (permalink)
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Just discovered yet another tool, the HT-0112 which is for crimping the terminals onto 32-36AWG wire.
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Old 04-22-2017, 09:03 AM   #47 (permalink)
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There are a bunch more crimpers that look like the HT-95. I'm just not sure what they do. I wish I could find a comprehensive list somewhere.

HT-17
HT-48
HT-49
HT-66 for coax insulation
HT-104
HT-110
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Old 04-22-2017, 09:30 AM   #48 (permalink)
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There are even more crimpers when you consider our balance connectors and all those other micro connectors used on the smaller RC electronics.

I have three different Powerpole crimpers myself.
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Old 04-22-2017, 10:56 AM   #49 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbaum81 View Post
Holly hell, $700 to $1,200 on that crimp tool??!??!?

Atomic, any suggestions on a good quality crimp tool that isn't the cost of an airframe?
I got the Hansen deluxe crimper, wire stripper and like 100 pins for around $70. I can't imagine paying that much for a single tool and I see the Hansen crimper recommended all the time on HF. That's what got me to finally buy one. It's seriously good. I just had a crimp/wire fail on a tail servo. Luckily, I discovered it on the ground as I was spooling up and had zero tail control. Funny thing is I'd shortened and re-crimped all my cyclic servo leads long ago. The only one that failed was a factory crimp and this heli hasn't been crashed...yet...
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Old 04-22-2017, 11:14 AM   #50 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Glenn Goodlett View Post
Just to round things out, I ordered a set of HT-73 and HT-102. It's amazing that a $1200 tool can be had for $40 or $50.
It's not surprising these tools sell cheap used these days. Many of them are several decades old and are no longer used in industry. Over the years many new connector systems have emerged as well as automated crimp tools.
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Old 04-22-2017, 11:27 AM   #51 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike680 View Post
I got the Hansen deluxe crimper, wire stripper and like 100 pins for around $70. I can't imagine paying that much for a single tool and I see the Hansen crimper recommended all the time on HF. That's what got me to finally buy one. It's seriously good. I just had a crimp/wire fail on a tail servo. Luckily, I discovered it on the ground as I was spooling up and had zero tail control. Funny thing is I'd shortened and re-crimped all my cyclic servo leads long ago. The only one that failed was a factory crimp and this heli hasn't been crashed...yet...
I was in the same camp as you until last week. In fact everything I am flying has been done with the Hansen deluxe crimpers and I make every servo wire a custom length. The Hansen crimpers have never failed me.

Last week I figured out that these professional crimpers could be had for $40-$100 bucks on EBay. The crimps are way better than with the Hansen crimpers. But, more importantly the crimps are more repeatable in that a perfect crimp is made every time. No more stray strands, wire in too far, or wire not in far enough.

Are they a necessity? Not by a long shot. Will it make the heli fly better? Not a chance. Will they make it more reliable? Maybe.
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Old 04-22-2017, 03:01 PM   #52 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Glenn Goodlett View Post
The crimps are way better than with the Hansen crimpers. But, more importantly the crimps are more repeatable in that a perfect crimp is made every time. No more stray strands, wire in too far, or wire not in far enough.
I've never had a problem with my Hansen crimper and any of that. In fact, deluxe version was the most highly liked and recommended crimper on HF until this post just started up. Just because else out there may be "better", that doesn't mean what worked great before suddenly stops working great. The trick is to lay the wire in the pin and get it aligned perfectly with the insulation butted up against the inner "wings" that crimp to the wire strands. Make sure all the strands are in that inner notch. I gently twist the strands beforehand. Slightly pinch the rear "wings" with a pair of needle nose pliers to hold everything in place while you insert the whole thing into the Hansen crimper. Works perfectly every time. I actually to had the back the star adjuster out one notch because the stock setting smashed everything just a bit too much. I practiced a bunch on old cut off servo leads before doing an actual servo. I yanked and yanked on crimped wire ends as a test and, if one failed, it was because the wire broke. I still give a tug job (heh, heh) on each crimp that's going into service and have never had one come out or indicate it was loose in any other way.

The way I see it is Chinese child slave labor gets paid next to nothing to do hundreds of crimps a day or even more in factory sweatshops. Do you think they have the care or attention to detail that we as hobbyists would have with our own gear using a decent crimper? I have no idea what they use. Definitely not in my case, especially seeing as how it was a factory crimp that failed on me, as described above in a previous post.
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Old 04-22-2017, 05:26 PM   #53 (permalink)
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im late to the party but you really can't go wrong with a Engineer PA-09 as a inexpensive hand crimper. i use it for AMP 040/090 size engine computer and sensor pins





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Old 04-22-2017, 08:26 PM   #54 (permalink)
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Before you declare any crimp good, you should run some current though it and MEASURE the voltage drop. I bought a pair of Hansen Deluxe crimpers and later THREW THEM AWAY. I have some aftermarket servo plugs whose pins look like bananas. I have a handful of Futaba crimps that are over crimped - smushed - and some that are under crimped by a mile.
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Old 04-22-2017, 10:27 PM   #55 (permalink)
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Just wanted to add a link for future reference to the genuine Amphenol FCI Wire-to-Board Connectors. Thanks Atomic for the link.

http://www.mouser.com/catalog/catalogusd/648/1683.pdf

and male Amphenol pins

https://www.digikey.com/products/en?...=609-3658-1-ND
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Old 04-22-2017, 11:31 PM   #56 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Four Stroker View Post
Before you declare any crimp good, you should run some current though it and MEASURE the voltage drop. I bought a pair of Hansen Deluxe crimpers and later THREW THEM AWAY.
Did you even try adjusting them and practicing on throwaway wire and sacrificial pins before using it on something important or did you just go right into it? They are easily adjustable for crimp depth, you know. The Hansen deluxe crimper has been around for a long time and a whole lot of people, myself included, use and swear by them. We're not all wrong, not by far and that's for sure.
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Old 04-23-2017, 05:59 PM   #57 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by blue92ehsi View Post
im late to the party but you really can't go wrong with a Engineer PA-09 as a inexpensive hand crimper. i use it for AMP 040/090 size engine computer and sensor pins





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I have those they work great for everything BUT DuPont pins which they mangle up pretty badly.

From this page, left crimped with PA-09, middle and right crimped with HT-0095 (official tool for this connector). The difference is obvious.

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Old 04-23-2017, 06:09 PM   #58 (permalink)
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The wire on this turned out to be 26AWG not 28AWG as I thought, test crimped the cut off lead in the 28-32AWG side and thought it was good until I noticed that the connection box on the end of the pin was distorted. Oddly enough the crimp itself was fine. Tried crimping 30AWG wire and the terminal came out fine, dunno why the connection box would distort like that from over crimping.

Anyway, crimped with the 22-26AWG side and they came out fine (I wanted the lead this short btw)



First time I noticed the flashing on the backs of the terminals I thought it was abnormal. Reread the manual about defective crimps and I realized it was talking about abnormal (uneven) flashing, some flashing on the terminal crimp is in fact normal.
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Old 04-23-2017, 08:32 PM   #59 (permalink)
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what i like about the pa-09 over the hanson tool is the definition of the B in the die. the hanson was very rounded whee the 09 is sharp and more defined. that article is a great read. thanks!


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Old 04-24-2017, 02:05 AM   #60 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blue92ehsi View Post
what i like about the pa-09 over the hanson tool is the definition of the B in the die. the hanson was very rounded whee the 09 is sharp and more defined. that article is a great read. thanks!
That is probably why the Hansen tool does better with DuPont (servo) terminals. The rounded die is closer to what the official tooling is like:

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