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Old 07-14-2017, 08:22 AM   #41 (permalink)
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Forgot one, if you get a chance to fly, go fly. Life may get in the way for the next two weeks,

Am off today for an ultrasound, I was having some abdomen pains that turned out to be hernias (they think, from my motorcycle accident two years ago). Anyway they found two lesions on my liver that they want to look at.

Long story short, flew for an hour and a half at sunrise today, was really nice. There's rain in the forecast for the next few days.
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Old 07-14-2017, 08:58 AM   #42 (permalink)
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A 30 second preflight before EACH flight will save you a ton of money and so many hours wrenching!
I mainly pull on my head links, tail links and boom supports and a fast visual inspection of the heli overall.
Unfortunately I started doing this after many mishaps that could have been prevented but since I started this practice I have saved myself from numerous crashes from something as simple as a ball starting to unscrew


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Old 07-14-2017, 09:02 AM   #43 (permalink)
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Always leave TX case open if TX is not in case. NEVER close lid if TX is not in case!
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Old 07-14-2017, 10:36 AM   #44 (permalink)
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by FlatCrank View Post
Always leave TX case open if TX is not in case. NEVER close lid if TX is not in case!
Brilliant.

Last edited by rdlohr; 12-09-2017 at 09:29 PM.. Reason: SPAM
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Old 07-14-2017, 12:28 PM   #45 (permalink)
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Always...no, no...never...forget to check your references.
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Old 07-14-2017, 12:31 PM   #46 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stevin View Post
A 30 second preflight before EACH flight will save you a ton of money and so many hours wrenching!
I mainly pull on my head links, tail links and boom supports and a fast visual inspection of the heli overall.
Unfortunately I started doing this after many mishaps that could have been prevented but since I started this practice I have saved myself from numerous crashes from something as simple as a ball starting to unscrew


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+1

Preflight before every flight now. It's saved me plenty of times.
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Old 07-14-2017, 03:26 PM   #47 (permalink)
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One thing I've learned, when you're learning a maneuver, learn both directions.

If you do the maneuver always the same way (left rudder piroflips only, nose right tic tocs only, tail first hurricanes only, etc) you will never want to learn them the opposite way (right rudder piroflips, nose left tic tocs, nose first hurricanes) and when you finally try, it will be VERY hard to unlearn what you know and learn it the other way.
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Old 07-17-2017, 01:21 AM   #48 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ssmith512 View Post
Always...no, no...never...forget to check your references.
'I think the young people enjoy it when I "get down" verbally, don't you?'
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Old 07-17-2017, 03:46 AM   #49 (permalink)
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I don't know, I still use the cheapo MZ-12 I bought first (after trying three others). I'm not convinced you can get a lot better, other than fancy adjustable gimbals and easier-to-use user interfaces.
I did this at first,.. was using Devo 8S, w Deviation FW. I really liked how the TX felt in my hands, as well as the color touch screen, and customization of the FW. However,.. after upgrading to a Futaba T10J with 2x the stick resolution,.. my mind was blown!!! I was a much better pilot than I had thought, and my TX was totally holding me back!
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Old 07-18-2017, 07:48 PM   #50 (permalink)
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Consider what packs are interchangeable between multiple helis and planes you fly so that you minimize the number of types of batteries you have to charge and minimize the number of little potential fire bombs hanging around your house.

Never feel pressured to do anything. It's a hobby. You do it for your amusement only. If you are having fun, you win.

Appreciate the guys you fly with and hang with on the forums. Take the time to enjoy their company because life is short and they could be gone in an instant.



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Old 07-19-2017, 12:38 AM   #51 (permalink)
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I will never voluntarily climb into a real helicopter. This hobby has convinced me there are just too many moving parts, any one of which can fail with catastrophic results.
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Old 07-19-2017, 04:09 AM   #52 (permalink)
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Try not to build a "wall of fear" that you have to climb over to go fly. Happens in full size ones too. The minute I leave the ground RC or full scale it goes away and I think WTF was I thinking.

Get away from it for at least a week( no contact of any sort). You'll come back with a clear mind and I certainly have some of my best flight days after a long break.
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Old 07-19-2017, 06:16 AM   #53 (permalink)
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I will never voluntarily climb into a real helicopter. This hobby has convinced me there are just too many moving parts, any one of which can fail with catastrophic results.
Well I certainly wouldn't get into any real helicopter built and maintained (or not) by unqualified people in their sheds using cheap consumer grade parts and electronics (which is what this hobby essentially involves).
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Old 07-19-2017, 08:18 AM   #54 (permalink)
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Spending the time to make sure that your helicopter is set up correctly worth it.

You can use too much locktite.

Good tools are worth the investment: Soko, Hakko soldering Iron, quality hex drivers and a good ball link pliers are all totally worth it.

Don't buy spares until you need them unless you only have one heli

The exception is you can never have too many spare screws, bolts, nuts, wire ties, servo wires or heat shrink.

The XK K110 micro changed my life. Not great for 3d, but for all those basics it will really up your game. People have commented on my flying because of it.

Finally, practicing slow pirouettes upright and inverted will really up your game no matter what level you fly at.
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Old 07-19-2017, 09:23 AM   #55 (permalink)
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You can use too much locktite.
Just curious, could you elaborate on that? Myself,. I only use a small dab, and rub it into threads, but I'm curious what TOO MUCH would do.
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Old 07-19-2017, 09:26 AM   #56 (permalink)
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Make screws impossible to get out. Strip heads even with high quality drivers. Or in the case of some high quality drivers, I've broken a 2mm Scorpion driver because the screw was so tight it just snapped off.

It can also make the loctite leech out and get into bearings and places it shouldn't be.
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Old 07-19-2017, 09:39 AM   #57 (permalink)
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ah yes,.. seems like common sense to me,.. lol.
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Old 07-19-2017, 09:58 AM   #58 (permalink)
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Make screws impossible to get out. Strip heads even with high quality drivers. Or in the case of some high quality drivers, I've broken a 2mm Scorpion driver because the screw was so tight it just snapped off.

It can also make the loctite leech out and get into bearings and places it shouldn't be.
Align bearing block screws MUST be heated with an iron or they will strip. No matter how little or much locker used.
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Old 07-19-2017, 10:09 AM   #59 (permalink)
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Well I certainly wouldn't get into any real helicopter built and maintained (or not) by unqualified people in their sheds using cheap consumer grade parts and electronics (which is what this hobby essentially involves).
Personally I'm impressed with cheap RC helicopters! One pitch pump in a full scale and your in the recycle yard!

The beauty of any helicopter is that you know how it will fly as soon as you lift the skids. Airplanes let you know after liftoff IF it will fly or not at 100 knots.
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Old 07-19-2017, 10:11 AM   #60 (permalink)
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Align bearing block screws MUST be heated with an iron or they will strip. No matter how little or much locker used.
Not sure what you mean? I've never had to use an iron on mine on my 700, 550, 500, or 450. MIP drivers.
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