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Old 08-01-2017, 08:02 AM   #41 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Coco66 View Post
Then you never had ice cream either, since it should not come off a "line"
Can't say I've ever had homemade but their ice cream is so much better before the flash freezerClick image for larger version

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This was about 20sec inside the storage freezer fing cold
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Old 08-01-2017, 05:08 PM   #42 (permalink)
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Hell, I can solder better than that.

I also admit when I am worried about whether I can do a connection well, I'll take it down the road to my lhs (Samano's, thanks Kenny! ). He'll cut me a break and do it right, and not razz me too much.

I'll put up a 3rd/4th as to the need for a soldering forum. Would be nice for a handy storehouse of info.
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Old 08-01-2017, 07:20 PM   #43 (permalink)
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But this story ends well! Can you see the difference?

Sweet!

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Old 08-02-2017, 09:51 AM   #44 (permalink)
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I was browsing fleabay yesterday, looking at second hand Goblins, and found this very poor BEC soldering on a 570 that is listed.

Probably the worst I've ever seen!!

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Old 08-02-2017, 10:35 AM   #45 (permalink)
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“EC5s suck! They desolder too easily!”
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Old 08-02-2017, 12:06 PM   #46 (permalink)
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You can still see the picture if you cut-and-paste the URL to a new browser window. Just does not work when embedded.
Maybe I am not doing it right, but this still does not work for me. It just takes me to photobucket website (holy advertisements) where it shows that same "update 3rd party subscription blah blah" Even tried copying link from html code from inspect element and still no dice.
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Old 08-02-2017, 12:15 PM   #47 (permalink)
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Maybe I am not doing it right, but this still does not work for me. It just takes me to photobucket website (holy advertisements) where it shows that same "update 3rd party subscription blah blah" Even tried copying link from html code from inspect element and still no dice.
I did the same, either way, it didn't work for me too.

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Old 08-02-2017, 03:09 PM   #48 (permalink)
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Here it is. Monkey's handy work.

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Old 08-02-2017, 03:52 PM   #49 (permalink)
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That's not so bad. Polarity is overrated.
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Old 08-02-2017, 04:11 PM   #50 (permalink)
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Wow, and I thought my soldering was bad!
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Old 08-02-2017, 04:18 PM   #51 (permalink)
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It says "for LF-3500 iron" then at the bottom it says it fits the HF-90 handpiece when it obviously can't.
That sucks Hakko are decent irons with reasonably priced tips. I prefer metcal myself though. Xytronic is a new one I have never heard of before. "and with 90W high power PTC heater for a super-fast heat-up and quick temperature recovery." Kind of dubious to call it a 120w iron.

You can sometimes make up for a slightly to small tip by increasing the temperature. But if you are at a point where you are getting cold joints you need to increase the thermal mass with a larger tip. Holding the iron on the joint to long can cause all sort of problems. Solder will tend to wick up the wire and you end up with a large section of stiff wire.

Last edited by xokia; 08-02-2017 at 05:23 PM..
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Old 08-02-2017, 05:34 PM   #52 (permalink)
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That's not so bad. Polarity is overrated.
And that's why they make electrical tape. Tape it and fly.
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Old 08-02-2017, 07:21 PM   #53 (permalink)
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That takes some serious skill to solder that bad!
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Old 08-02-2017, 08:52 PM   #54 (permalink)
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That sucks Hakko are decent irons with reasonably priced tips. I prefer metcal myself though. Xytronic is a new one I have never heard of before. "and with 90W high power PTC heater for a super-fast heat-up and quick temperature recovery." Kind of dubious to call it a 120w iron
Someone cut and paste from the Xytronic LF-3000 information and missed that (the LF-3000 has the exact same information spiel). The LF-3200 seems to be relatively new it's not in their catalog yet or listed on Xytronic USA's website.

Even in the manual it seems they just cut and paste from the LF-3000 manual as in the info spiel at the beginning it says "90W output" but then in the specifications table further on it says "120W output". It looks like they just took the LF-3000 manual and only updated the specification table on page 5.

http://www.jameco.com/Jameco/Product...sersManual.pdf


EDIT: Found the LF-3200 page on Xytronic Taiwan's page:

http://www.soldering-station.com/solder-station.html

Xytronic isn't new they've been around since at least the 80's, here's a review of the LF-3000 where the guy says he's had his previous Xytronic iron for two decades.

XYTronic LF-3000 Soldering Station Review (6 min 41 sec)
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Old 08-02-2017, 10:34 PM   #55 (permalink)
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Hello Dr. Rudder,

can you tell me which soldering station you are using and what is best temperature to do best Job? I have often problems.

Kind regards

Chris
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Old 08-02-2017, 11:46 PM   #56 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gyro_Gearloose View Post
Hello Dr. Rudder,

can you tell me which soldering station you are using and what is best temperature to do best Job? I have often problems.
It depends on what solder you are using. If you are using 63/37 tin lead the temperature required to solder is 600F. I prefer to use 700F though with this solder. By how shiny his solder is I would guess that is standard 63/37 solder

If you are using no lead solder then the temp required will be different.

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Xytronic isn't new they've been around since at least the 80's, here's a review of the LF-3000 where the guy says he's had his previous Xytronic iron for two decades.
New to me I have never heard of them. They look like decent irons though.
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Old 08-03-2017, 01:33 AM   #57 (permalink)
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can you tell me which soldering station you are using and what is best temperature to do best Job?
The station I used for this was a Weller WSD80, set to 370C (700F).
And the solder was 63/37. With that high temp you have to be pretty quick as the solder starts to separate rather quickly. I also used extra flux and IPA for cleaning.

I always plug in the other side of the connector, so that if the case starts to melt a little bit, the contacts won't go drifting.

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Old 08-03-2017, 01:40 AM   #58 (permalink)
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New to me I have never heard of them. They look like decent irons though.
If you look around various internet forums you will see that they are considered to be in the same league as Hakko quality-wise. Their newer irons use high frequency AC induction to heat the tip rather than a heating element and thermal conduction which is a technology I hadn't heard of before. The patent I found for it was issued to Hakko but I think they only ever used it in their higher end stuff. Apparently the patent lapsed and other companies are now using this technology.

Interestingly, the patent mentions Metcal RF soldering technology and how this technology is different i.e. high frequency induction independent of the curie point of the soldering tip which allows the temperature to be adjusted. I bet the trade off is less precise control of the tip temperature though as it uses a temp sensor rather than curie point for temp control.

https://www.google.com/patents/US5408072
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Old 08-03-2017, 07:35 AM   #59 (permalink)
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I don't know if they are in the same league, but MPJA has some Chinese jobbies that are cost effective and I like them well enough.

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Old 08-03-2017, 01:36 PM   #60 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Atomic Skull View Post
I
Interestingly, the patent mentions Metcal RF soldering technology and how this technology is different i.e. high frequency induction independent of the curie point of the soldering tip which allows the temperature to be adjusted. I bet the trade off is less precise control of the tip temperature though as it uses a temp sensor rather than curie point for temp control.
Metcal has been using this technology for as long as I can remember. Over 20 years. With Metcal there is no temperature adjustment. You buy the tip with the temp you need. So you can buy a 600,700 or 800 degree tip. The tip you use is how you control the temp.

One of the big differences is that a metcal tip is essentially a pencil. There is no bulky heater body, the tip IS the heater. Metcal tips can be expensive though.
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