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Old 09-03-2017, 08:17 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default striped 700 gear

alright guys new to the mikado/vbar as im the guy that won the grand prize at ircha either way i was flying/beating the hell out of this bird today and the tt tube gears striped at the frame side is this a common thing or just a fluke?
now by no means am i all that good but i can hold my own up in the sky and pow no tail which forced me into an auto, thank god nothing else broke lol.
anyways anyone have a little insight on this it would be great
thank
joe
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Old 09-03-2017, 10:08 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Some others had this same issue and shared some ideas about solving it here: https://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=775000
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Old 09-04-2017, 02:08 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Did you mesh them correctly? That's like the only real cause for them breaking, mesh being either asymmetric or too wide.
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Old 09-04-2017, 08:22 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Ok it has about 20 flights on it and I'm not going to say a builder fault for the simple reason I won this machine at ircha it was already built by the Mikado guys, truly ready to fly it was already programed in the radio and all
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Old 09-04-2017, 08:28 AM   #5 (permalink)
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My rule #1 in this hobby: NEVER trust anything someone else built. If in doubt, redo it.
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Old 09-04-2017, 12:12 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Having a top company build a heli to give away as the grand prize at what was the biggest helicopter event in the world at one time, and have the tail gears strip.....has to be frustrating. Hard to say you would have had to check over the work coming from such a company. It's great advice that should be adhered to, but really a tough call.

Hopefully they will help you out this once. After that, I'd say it's on you.

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Last edited by Way2evl; 09-04-2017 at 01:37 PM..
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Old 09-04-2017, 12:46 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Well that's gotta be frustrating to hear. OP, I'd likely make the same assumption in a factory-built bird. Check the Logo 700 subheading, there's a handful of threads on tt gears stripping. It seems that the solution is to shim to help get the lash just right. I'd be curious to hear if your model has any shims behind the gear.

Hopefully replacing the gear and shimming it resolves your issues.

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Old 09-04-2017, 03:27 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Took it apart and seen no shims so maybe that's the problem any idea what the mesh should be
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Old 09-04-2017, 04:26 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Joe, check here: https://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=775000

Looks like around 0.2mm in front of and behind the gear is spec'd in the manual

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Old 09-04-2017, 07:20 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jmtyndall View Post
Joe, check here: https://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=775000

Looks like around 0.2mm in front of and behind the gear is spec'd in the manual

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Sorry but I think the information picked up in that thread was mis-interpreted.

You do shim the gears, but the rear gears.

Anywhere from 0.2mm - 0.4mm, which is used to remove in and out play. How you shim it is up to how the tail shaft gear lines up with the gear that connects to the TT. It's not suggested to just shim all on one side or the other, as you may need 0.2mm on one side and 0.1mm on the opposite side.

I've personally never stripped the front gears from just flying, only crashes. The last crash I experimented with shimming the front horizontal gear towards the vertical gear with a 0.2mm shim, and it was simply EXTREMELY too tight and not required. I didn't have a 0.1mm shim to experiment with.

I've had the best luck with 0 shims up front, and using DryFluid through out the model.
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Old 09-04-2017, 07:50 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Well thanks to all how replied as I am new to the Mikado machine (all my helis are align which will be converted to vbar when I when the lotto lol) I have new gears and the bevel gear shaft (it was hard to get the bearings off the shaft at the end where the set screw is and I'm sure it's just because of the set screw)I will check double check when assembling it back what is the dry lube you speak of
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Old 09-04-2017, 08:52 PM   #12 (permalink)
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DryFluid Gear Lube

Lots of heli shops such as Mikado USA carry it. Make sure it is the gear lube you get though.

http://shop.mikadousa.com/DRYFLUIDGE...ml_p_1157.html
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Old 09-05-2017, 08:27 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Using 0.3mm at the tail, but none at the front.

Works fine.
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Old 09-05-2017, 08:51 AM   #14 (permalink)
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I was one of the people having issues with the tail gears stripping. For me, it was always the back ones. My current setup which seems to be working is:
  • 0.35 shim total on the left side of the gear (on the output shaft) in the tail case to take up axial slop of the shaft in the case and to align the umbrella gears properly.
  • no shims in the front, however I push the umbrella gear forward to take up the excess gear lash before tightening it's bearing holder bolts.
  • I am using a 0.12 - 0.18 shim between the umbrella gear in the tail case and it's first support bearing to take up excess gear lash in the tail case. (between the bearing and the molded step on the gear) <EDIT -- CURRENTLY using a 0.12mm shim. With the last gear I needed a 0.18mm shim to reduce the gear lash the same amount. )
  • I've been using DryFluid Gear.

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Last edited by KevinB; 09-05-2017 at 08:29 PM..
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Old 09-05-2017, 09:27 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Ok without sounding like an idiot because all my helis are align and I'm new to the Mikado where exactly are you putting these shims? I don't have to deal with or do that to my others, I did downloaded the manual so I have a reference but not quite sure on where you all are referring to
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