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NX4 Discussion and support of the Gaui NX4 Nitro Helicopter |
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09-21-2017, 02:50 PM | #1 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Sep 2014
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Still trying to get mine going...
So i just finished doing some repairs on one I picked up second hand. Mostly minor stuff like swash and some bolts ect. Nothing major.
It has an os .50 SX hyper. Basically when i start it. It will fire right up, and idle, I remove the glow plug and it will die. I tried the glow plug from my synergy which I flew over the weekend and it does the same thing. With it plugged in, I can hover it in the back yard. And even do some pitch pumps without killing it. I've started at 1.5 turns out in the carb and then tried leaning it out a little to see if it was getting too much fuel with out any luck. I'm getting lots of smoke. Could it be two bad plugs?. I'm new to nitro, I only started flying my synergy a few months ago and it was basically a new engine. It hasn't had a wholr lot of issues. |
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09-21-2017, 10:59 PM | #2 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Sep 2014
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So I figured it out. While I was adjusting the carb I didn't pay attention to battery voltage. I think it was going into failsafe. I Charged a battery, recharged my glow starter, refueled my heli and it fired right up, unplugged the glow starter and hovered it without it dying!!! Wooohooo.
Successful hover!! Maiden this weekend. |
09-23-2017, 11:27 AM | #3 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Sep 2011
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Way to go Matt Hope your maiden flights go well.
I recently figured out a niggling problem on my nx4. For awhile now seemed like something was not right with it. Couldn't quite put my finger on what might be the issue until I tried spinning the owb and saw it was locked up. Pulled everything apart and literally the bearing had disintegrated and was froze up solid. Whoops. Had to order another and also replace the auto rotation gear aluminum housing as it was pretty galled up. After assembling it and trying it out it continued to lock up and not spin freely. Turns out the shim between the sleeve and the owb housing was causing things to bind up. Took out the shim and everything now works properly. I guess the production tolerances on my kit are a bit tight. Had the best flights I've ever had last week with it. First time also getting a tune spot on with a nitro. Love this little heli. |
09-23-2017, 05:09 PM | #4 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Sep 2014
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That's awesome Jim.
I took my nx4 to the field and my friend helped me get my engine running even better. I've learned so much these last few weeks on engines. At any rate, I kept governor off for today and kept it just upright sport flying, a little adjustment and here and there and I just about have it. Although.i think I have a small leak at the muffler which I'll just reseal and discovered I'd lost a few screws(need a better loctite job) I flew 6 tanks today. Man this thing is fun. It's not nearly as intimidating as my 600 and has plenty of power. I hope to fix the small stuff and be out again tommarow with it. |
09-24-2017, 10:58 AM | #5 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Jul 2017
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muffler
For your muffler, don't use any "gasket" if it comes with one, gaskets tend to compress from the vibration and the bolts come loose. Instead use High temp silicone (very thin layer) and use small lock washers. Make sure you clean everything with alcohol first and "flat sand" the gasket mating surfaces.The temperature is too high for loctite to be effective unless you have high temp loctite. I have been running mine like this for 20+ years....
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09-24-2017, 01:16 PM | #6 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Sep 2014
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So the ones I lost we're mounting the motor to the frame, I assume the loctite won't work on them then and use lock washers instead?
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09-25-2017, 10:47 AM | #7 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Sep 2011
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On the motor mount screws I use blue loctite. Using lock washers wouldn't hurt either. I'm using the .37 so probably don't have the same vibes as you. A lot of people suggest to retighten the muffler bolts up while they're still hot. I do as the previous poster suggested and use Permatex copper gasket sealant. I apply a thin coat on both the pipe and engine surfaces and let sit for 5-10 minutes to tack up then assemble. Do your best not to squeeze any into the exhaust port because it will kill your glow plug. I also run a very fine file over the mating surfaces if necessary to take care of any high spots. My gasser would loosen the pipe up on a regular basis until I did this.
Only screw on my nx that I keep an eye on is the one that keeps the rudder control rod pivot in place. For some reason mine will come loose occasionally. Last time it did this I went "I'll fix you rascal but good this time" and just slathered the blue loctite on it. Hasn't moved since! |
09-25-2017, 02:03 PM | #8 (permalink) | |
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Join Date: Sep 2014
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Quote:
The original muffler screw holes were stripped so new longer bolts were installed but I get a little shifting going on too. I have the same thing going on my synergy, but it held up for 6 months now including the break-in and some mild 3d now. It finally broke free this weekend though. |
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10-01-2017, 04:49 PM | #9 (permalink) | |
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Join Date: Sep 2014
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Quote:
So I picked up some M4 bolts and drilled the engine and muffler holes out and resealed it up. This feals SO much more robust then before. I'm going to do the same thing on the synergy. At any rate. I'm so much more comfortable with this size, i feal pretty good about throwing it around. I'm hoping after a few tanks I'll be turning governor on and doing some 3d next weekend Thanks all for your help. The correct RTV compound was the ticket. |
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