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Old 03-02-2018, 11:54 AM   #81 (permalink)
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I flashed mine and it does fly much better, especially during the back half of the batt pack. Thank you for all the info.

Originally ordered this from Banggood but it didn't work (https://www.banggood.com/KINGKONG-ES...r_warehouse=CN).

This one from Hobbyking worked for me (https://hobbyking.com/en_us/usb-prog...opter-esc.html).
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Old 03-02-2018, 06:51 PM   #82 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yu16b View Post
I flashed mine and it does fly much better, especially during the back half of the batt pack. Thank you for all the info.

Originally ordered this from Banggood but it didn't work (https://www.banggood.com/KINGKONG-ES...r_warehouse=CN).

This one from Hobbyking worked for me (https://hobbyking.com/en_us/usb-prog...opter-esc.html).

Thanks for leaving a feedback about the Kingkong plug-in.

A couple of dudes have asked me previously if that and something similar will (and it's cheaper). Replied "most likely not". Now we can confirm it doesn't work.

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Old 03-03-2018, 01:28 AM   #83 (permalink)
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I have a device similar to the KINGKONG one shown - however it is for use after the BLHeli firmware has been flashed onto the ESC, it plugs into the servo connector and connects with BLHeli - but only after it has been flashed.

The KingKong adaptor does not support the C2 interface that is needed to communicate with "unflashed" SiLab ESCs like the K110 ESC - for that you need something like the HobbyKing device to flash the ESC with BLHeli.

Once the ESC is flashed with BLHeli (using the C2 interface) you can use either device to "talk" to it - the HobbyKing device will still work with the C2 pins, or you can use the KingKong device to communicate via the usual "servo" lead
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Old 03-12-2018, 02:28 AM   #84 (permalink)
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Since I fly fpv quads, will i be able to solder this esc to a fc and doing the usb passthrough?
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Old 03-15-2018, 01:15 PM   #85 (permalink)
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Since I fly fpv quads, will i be able to solder this esc to a fc and doing the usb passthrough?


I tried on a SPRacing F3 and it didnít work.


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Old 03-21-2018, 05:18 PM   #86 (permalink)
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Default Off topic, but kind of related....

I've seen the SUT tail motor mentioned a few times in this thread. (great thread BTW!!) and I have ordered a couple for the two XK110's I have. I know the SUT tail motor is 7mm diameter, but is the stock tail motor also 7mm? Perhaps I need a tail motor mount too?

I have some previous experience flashing BLHeli when I build my BL nCPX , mCPX and also Align 150 DFC so I'm o.k. doing that, I've just not gotten round to it yet.

Cheers!!

MB
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Old 03-21-2018, 08:41 PM   #87 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Miracle Boy View Post
I've seen the SUT tail motor mentioned a few times in this thread. (great thread BTW!!) and I have ordered a couple for the two XK110's I have. I know the SUT tail motor is 7mm diameter, but is the stock tail motor also 7mm? Perhaps I need a tail motor mount too?

I have some previous experience flashing BLHeli when I build my BL nCPX , mCPX and also Align 150 DFC so I'm o.k. doing that, I've just not gotten round to it yet.

Cheers!!

MB
Same size. It's direct replacement. But many also buy this v977 mount: -clicky-
as an upgrade. Supposedly to cool the motor. I'm not sure if it's for real. They look cool though. All my K110 have those mounts.
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Old 03-22-2018, 02:20 PM   #88 (permalink)
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Are there other USB programmers which will work to flash blheli besides the one linked to hobbyking? It is out of stock there
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Old 03-22-2018, 06:28 PM   #89 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by e92.M3 View Post
Same size. It's direct replacement. But many also buy this v977 mount: -clicky-
as an upgrade. Supposedly to cool the motor. I'm not sure if it's for real. They look cool though. All my K110 have those mounts.
O.K. Thanks e92.M3, that's great, good to know I've found that the stock tail motor runs cool all the time, even after 4 x 4 minute flights back to back, does the SUT tail motort run hotter?

I saw that tail motor mount, it's what got me wondering TBH, but I'm not sure I'd bother with it. I'll need to check if the K110 is tail heavy or nose heavy, but it must be one or the other, because it piros poorly (wanders a lot) in 3D mode.

MB
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Old 03-22-2018, 06:41 PM   #90 (permalink)
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Are there other USB programmers which will work to flash blheli besides the one linked to hobbyking? It is out of stock there
I got mine years ago, but this one looks the same as the one I use, so should be fine.

https://www.dronematters.com/usb-pro...lheli-esc.html

MB
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Old 03-28-2018, 11:20 AM   #91 (permalink)
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Bear with me - I really donít want to screw up the wiring and as great as this thread is, Iím confused. See the photos - can someone please match the colors (BLACK, RED, YELLOW) to the numbers (1,2,3)?

Thanks,






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Old 03-28-2018, 03:05 PM   #92 (permalink)
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#1 - black
#2 - red
#3 - yellow

I was a little confused with this myself at first and would have gotten it wrong if I hadn't also asked for the same advise.
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Old 03-31-2018, 07:38 PM   #93 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Miracle Boy View Post
Does the SUT tail motort run hotter?

I saw that tail motor mount, it's what got me wondering TBH, but I'm not sure I'd bother with it. I'll need to check if the K110 is tail heavy or nose heavy, but it must be one or the other, because it piros poorly (wanders a lot) in 3D mode.

MB
Sorry for the delay responding (i was out of the country), but no. Neither tail motor runs hot/warm. I now have four K110s, only three have the SUT motors. Definitely the SUT is good and cheap upgrade.

As for the piro character, i run the highest headspeed i can which makes it significantly better. But i tend to be careful with pitch at that high rates as it will blow out the tail.
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Old 04-01-2018, 03:15 AM   #94 (permalink)
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Mine was piro-ing poorly. Re-calibrated in 3G mode (I do not use 6G) and piros much flatter
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Old 04-01-2018, 10:45 AM   #95 (permalink)
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Mine was piro-ing poorly. Re-calibrated in 3G mode (I do not use 6G) and piros much flatter
Mike's posting reminded me how i've been doing the 3G calibration almost every after lipo pack:
a) Put/ keep it on 3G mode while landed.
b) Just flip the switch to a Flight Mode with full 100% rates
c) Left stick to left lower corner, Right stick to right lower corner at the same time.
d) Within a second or two, the red and blue leds will blink fast and stop at around 4-5 second mark. Will then turn solid while the blades will adjust suddenly.

* I do this regularly because my servos had their servo saving mods so sometimes one servo or two will skip a tooth after a minor crash or when running high hs and being a bit hard on the model.
** Will work easy only if one has atleast a Flight Mode programmed at full rates.
*** Allows me to fly more a bit before the need to do mechanical re-centering as long as there 's only two teeth skipped or less.

As for 6D calibration, I also found out (and posted about it belatedly perhaps) that i can do this too quite easy and fast:
a) While heli powered off, turn on/keep radio on while the 6G switch is activated.
b) Flip Flight Mode to full rates.
c) Power up heli
d) Left stick to Right lower corner, Right stick to left lower corner at the same time. No need to rush as we have 5 seconds to activate 6G calibration.
e) Within 2-3 seconds the led will flash but a bit slower than in 3G, indicating it's on 6G calibration and it's ready for trim flight.
d) Do trim flight on lower Flight Mode rates then power cycle after landing.
* Personally, at least, i originally have been doing 6G calibration by: hold the sticks according to d) while doing c). It does require some coordination specially on a tiny heli with super shortened wires. I really hated it when i was still doing it that way.
** The Five Second allowance was the key and found it by accident. Perhaps i've not been reading RCG that much if it ever was discussed there.
*** I use 6G when landing specially when it's windy. Helps a lot.

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Old 04-01-2018, 10:58 AM   #96 (permalink)
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Default Beware of HK USB cable!

WARNING: The HK USB cable is NOT symmetrical!
The cable that comes with the HobbyKing USB Programmer for Micro Helicopter ESC is wired with two of the wires crossed. (Well the one that I ordered from HK in January 2017 did.) The three wire cable has identical connectors on each end, but on one end it goes: BLACK-RED-YELLOW and on the other end it goes BLACK-YELLOW-RED.

If you plug the BLACK-YELLOW-RED end into the USB adapter, (your picture shows it plugged in bassackwards - mine was delivered plugged in the same way), the colors do correctly correspond to the BLHeli color coding (except that YELLOW==WHITE). When you plug the cable in correctly, (with the BLACK-YELLOW-RED end into the USB adapter), then the numbering on your photo is: 1=BLACK, 2=RED and 3=YELLOW/WHITE.

Hope this helps!
Quote:
Originally Posted by natedg200202 View Post
Bear with me - I really donít want to screw up the wiring and as great as this thread is, Iím confused. See the photos - can someone please match the colors (BLACK, RED, YELLOW) to the numbers (1,2,3)?

Thanks,




...
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Old 04-01-2018, 11:00 AM   #97 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Lotus 7 View Post
#1 - black
#2 - red
#3 - yellow

I was a little confused with this myself at first and would have gotten it wrong if I hadn't also asked for the same advise.
This is true only when the cable is plugged in one specific way (and NOT the way the photo shows it) - see my post above.
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Old 04-01-2018, 11:09 AM   #98 (permalink)
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Thanks Ridge. As long as the Black wire was soldered on the right spot and connected to the programmer properly, mis crossing the other two is okay. Just an error on boot up. Try the other way and boot up again.

But if the Black wire goes somewhere else- it's Poof (sometimes)!
Pls, don't ask how i know.
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Old 04-01-2018, 09:14 PM   #99 (permalink)
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Default Stock ESC + Blheli: A Necessary MOD

I don't know how this is possible, but I'm still confused.

I have the USB programmer here in my hand. I've checked - the three wire connector that exits the end can only be plugged in one way. It can't be inserted 'bass-akward'.

Iím going to solder as necessary from the three wires exiting the USB programmer to the ESC pads and I take responsibility for keeping their path clear.

Let's forget colors. See the two pictures below:





If I understand:
Connect Wire A to point 1
Connect Wire B to point 2
Connect Wire C to point 3

If this is wrong please correct me.

Thanks so much,
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Old 04-02-2018, 08:53 AM   #100 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by natedg200202 View Post
...If I understand:
Connect Wire A to point 1
Connect Wire B to point 2
Connect Wire C to point 3

If this is wrong please correct me. ...
It is wrong.

Quote:
Originally Posted by natedg200202 View Post
... I have the USB programmer here in my hand. I've checked - the three wire connector that exits the end can only be plugged in one way. It can't be inserted 'bass-akward'. ...
Either end of the cable can be plugged into the USB adapter - (the same connector is used on both ends). Your photo shows the cable plugged in backwards (with regard to getting the wire color coding to match the BLHeli documentation.) If you plug in the BLACK-YELLOW-RED end into the USB adapter, then the wire colors correctly match the BLHeli photo scheme.

Here is a shot from the "BLHeli programming adapters.pdf" document (attached) which shows the color codes for the C2 interface connector:



Hope this helps!
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