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Old 11-18-2017, 08:01 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Its Here! Whiplash G1-G2 Conversion build thread

Gentelmen!

The wait is over, I have my G2 conversion kit in the shop! I will document my build for you guys. I plan to start after turkey day - my other gasser is on the bench waiting for a new pinion from Australia, need to get that one flying before I start tearing down the Whiplash.

Some photos to wet your appetite

This is what you get in the box - all new main transmission parts, clutch, mainshaft and TT assembly, along with a template to modify your G1 frames.

The template is nicely CNC'd from heavy (edit) stainless steel plate.

Instructions are included but the only thing they dont cover is drilling the frame using the template. That process is self explanatory but the one part I'm sure about is hole sizes for drilling. I might have to buy a set of metric drill bits to get this correct.

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Futaba, Bavarian Demon, Hanson Engines| DIY Lithium field battery

Last edited by jharkin; 11-27-2017 at 01:47 PM..
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Old 11-18-2017, 08:15 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Default Geartrain

The parts we where waiting for. The machining here is phenomenal, fit of everything is even better than what was coming out of Montana, which already made my TRex conversion parts seem like mass market toys.

A few observations....

They are not anodizing everything grey like everything like Montana did. The main gear hub is definately clar anodized, but some of hte other parts appar like they might just be bare machined aluminum. Hard to tell for sure. I dont know if they will eventually anodize everything, or if they made a specific design decision not to anodize certain parts for fit/tolerance reasons.

(For non-engineers: Aluminum parts grow a few thousandths when anodized due to the added thickness of the oxide coating. For extremely tight tolerance parts that required a multi step manufacturing process where they would first rough machine the part, bead blast, anodize it, and then have to do an additional finish machining pass on mating surfaces, bearing surfaces, etc. Time consuming and expensive)

The tolerances are tight, and I mean TIGHT. The maingear is a press fit onto the hub and I am almost tempted to sand it out a bit to make it easier to bolt in. Not sure I want to in case I accidentally induce some runout (anyone who has dealt with aftermarket car wheels and knows what hub centric and lug centric is should get my meaning)


As we saw in Rahulgabas prototype, the tail drive crown gear is sandwiched between an aluminum hub and backplate... no flex here


I love that Josef used rubber sealed bearings throughout. I discovered on my Helix/Trex that these vented clutch bells spew clutch dust all over the inside of the frames and I worry it may get into the shielded bearings and wear them. I am upgrading that bird to sealed bearings for the same reason.



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MA Whiplash Gas v2 | HelixHeli T700 Gas conversion | T450 Sport FBL | OMP M1
Futaba, Bavarian Demon, Hanson Engines| DIY Lithium field battery

Last edited by jharkin; 11-19-2017 at 06:45 PM..
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Old 11-18-2017, 08:18 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Default New TT assembly

A new TT had to be included because its longer in the new design. However they didn't stop there. They also redesigned the end fittings, and they redesigned the support bearing cups.

Atomic Skull would be all over this because they actually solved the TT bearing tolerance slop slop issue he obsesses over! They make a sleeve that goes over the tube to take up the fit in the bearing.

This should be the smoothest running TT tail on the market, period.

Nice work Josef


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Futaba, Bavarian Demon, Hanson Engines| DIY Lithium field battery

Last edited by jharkin; 11-18-2017 at 08:33 AM..
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Old 11-18-2017, 08:20 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Default Time for Bling.

While I was ordering, I could not resist picking up some bling. I run the optional red canopy on my V1, so I got a new red/orange painted tail fin and red skids to go with it.

Miniature is making the skids and fins in a whole range of colors - red, blue, green, etc.

Also got the updated full CNC tail gears (not pictured) and tail pitch slider.


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Old 11-18-2017, 07:02 PM   #5 (permalink)
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So this upgrade is available now? I think MA did a good job on this. They could have forced everyone that had a V1 into buying a hole V2 air frame.

Let me know how much wight it added?
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Old 11-18-2017, 09:10 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Whats best tool to use to cut/ modify the frames with the template...
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Old 11-19-2017, 07:36 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Jeremy,

Careful of the cup ends on the torque tube. They are (mine was) just a tad loose, not sloppy loose, but will spin on the tube somewhat easy. Even after installing the bolt, you can twist the ends. So I wicked some thin CA into the assembled cups, and that fixed that problem!
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Old 11-19-2017, 08:42 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joecass2 View Post
So this upgrade is available now? I think MA did a good job on this. They could have forced everyone that had a V1 into buying a hole V2 air frame.

Let me know how much wight it added?
Yes, available now. Cajun seems to be selling out each batch in days. I ordered mine direct form Germany though my local dealer

Good question on the weight. I'll post before and after weights when I do the build.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ttaylor View Post
Whats best tool to use to cut/ modify the frames with the template...
Another good question - I'll let you know what I come up with when I get the frames off for modification.

I have a set of metric bits on order for the new mount hole drilling. If the gear cutout needs to be opened up I'm thinking its dremel time...
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Futaba, Bavarian Demon, Hanson Engines| DIY Lithium field battery
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Old 11-19-2017, 03:36 PM   #9 (permalink)
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[QUOTE=jharkin;7488229]Yes, available now. Cajun seems to be selling out each batch in days. I ordered mine direct form Germany though my local dealer

Good question on the weight. I'll post before and after weights when I do the build.

Cool thanks. We’re in the USA are Cajun located? I never new about them I been ordering from Germany every time I needed something. I checked on there website but could not find the info.
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Old 11-19-2017, 04:31 PM   #10 (permalink)
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https://www.cajunaircraft.com/

No idea where they are. Raja is a factory rep so when I need something I just order with him.
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Old 11-19-2017, 05:21 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Oh I am so glad to see this conversion!!! Yaay!!!!


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Old 11-19-2017, 09:09 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jharkin View Post
https://www.cajunaircraft.com/

No idea where they are. Raja is a factory rep so when I need something I just order with him.
Cajun is in Northern Louisiana. Ive ordered MA parts from them in past...
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Old 11-20-2017, 02:00 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Conversion kits are in stock now at Cajun.

https://www.cajunaircraft.com/collec...=2544037134362

Last edited by loewermx; 11-20-2017 at 02:13 PM..
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Old 11-27-2017, 07:29 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Default A couple more parts...

Some more goodies for the build, hoping to make this the smoothest running gas heli ever

- Another Zimmerman pipe, to take off a couple ounces and give a bit more power over the hatori (courtesy of MA)
- A custom milled clutch, for smooth running (courtesy of rbort)
- The GPH governor sensor mount, to hide the sensor and clean up the wiring (courtesy of Carey/GPH)
- The MA carbon tail pushrod conversion (I had one left over in my parts stash)
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Old 11-27-2017, 07:34 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Default The build begins...

OK, got started on the conversion Sunday night. First thing is to strip the airframe down. About an hours work and I got the canopy, blades, tail assembly, gas tank and muffler off. Disassembly moves a bit slow because I have a lot of extra wiring in the way with the lighting system. Also I was cleaning up the muffler to store it away.

At this pace, I expect its going to take a couple hours to get it disassembled to the point where you can start cutting frames, and maybe 2 weeks of evenings total for all the work I have planned. Remember I work slow (about 1hr/evening) and am doing a lot more than just the conversion.

If you have a bone stock build and are just doing the conversion only you might bang this out in an all day session, we'll see how good my estimate is when its done....

I also weighed it before starting for a reference. I need to double check my number in the shop after work but I believe it was something around 13.1lb dry (with Hatori, generator system and full lights)
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Old 11-28-2017, 08:16 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Default Slow but steady...

Another hour last night and the engine is out and torn down. I just cant help myself, since its out and I've got this much invested I'm going to send it back to Hanson for a refresh and a bit of hot rodding

I also need to simplify the wiring a bit. The stator gator is going to be replaced with a Futaba sensor, and I'm going to get rid of maingear RPM telemetry sensor (we used it fora while to clock headspeed in autos, but found its not useful). A bunch of other wires can potentially be shortened and/or rerouted to clean things up.

Along the way I talked to Larry. He has already cut his frames and gave me some expert advise on how to go about it and the right tools to use. I hope he doesn't mind I shall follow his advice and post here for the rest of you to follow along.
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Last edited by jharkin; 11-29-2017 at 12:01 PM..
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Old 11-29-2017, 07:42 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Default More dissasembly...

Last night I finished boxing up the engine for Hanson and continued with disassembly. I got the generator off, pulled out the clutch stack, main gear, and head etc.

The upper pinion block needs to come off to assemble on the new clutch stack, and the lower main bearing block and front tail transmission block can both be removed and discarded at this point also.

Next up will be taking all the cyclic servos off and pulling out the other main bearing blocks, then any ancillary components that are in the way of the cutting template, before taking the frame sides off one at a time to modify.

Shop time so far: 3 hours
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Futaba, Bavarian Demon, Hanson Engines| DIY Lithium field battery

Last edited by jharkin; 11-29-2017 at 12:01 PM..
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Old 11-29-2017, 12:13 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Would of been easier to just include new frames in the upgrade kit. But would of made cost of upgrade more...
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Old 11-29-2017, 02:25 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ttaylor View Post
Would of been easier to just include new frames in the upgrade kit. But would of made cost of upgrade more...
Yeah, I wonder about that too... was cutting that stainless steel template really much cheaper than cutting a run of frames?
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Old 11-30-2017, 07:47 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Default Still moving slow...

Didn't have a lot of time yesterday, and I'm not really in a rush. the engine will be away at least a week, and I need to wait for the weekend to cut the frames since that's going to make a lot of noise I cant do it after dinner when the kids are sleeping upstairs.

I pulled all the cyclic servos off, removed the rear canopy mounts and got the tail boom mount out to remove the front tail transmission.

I think the throttle servo is still in the way of the cutting template, but after that I *think* you can leave everything else if you are careful. Once I get to that point, this is the plan Ive come up with for cutting the frames:

1 - remove one frame side, leaving all the bearing blocks, etc in place
2- modify and reinstall frame 1
3 - pull second frame side
4 - modify second frame side
5 - install new bearing blocks, etc
6 - install second modified frame side

I know, its not much less work that just tearing it down completely to parts and rebuilding from scratch, but you might get away with leaving much of your wiring in place.



Shop time so far: 3hr 45m
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