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Old 12-17-2017, 08:30 PM   #41 (permalink)
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So another question. I have these 2 collars left over - they are mainshaft sized. Its not really clear from the diagram, looks like they want you to use one on the top of the middle bearing block??

Can somebody with a V2 confirm?


EDIT: I looked at the diagram carefully late last night. These are to be place one above the middle bearing block and one below the bottom bearing block. Looks like they are replacing the main hub pinch screws on the V1 to provide extra security for the mainshaft.

Now I see what the 4th slotted hole and the lower bearing block in the frame is for. Gives you acess to tighten the lower collar.
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Old 12-19-2017, 08:01 AM   #42 (permalink)
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A few other odds and ends yesterday evening.

I got the two mainshaft collars installed.

I took the head apart and checked over everything, including greasing the dampers and head axle. I considered pulling the bearings out to clean and grease the thrust bearings but decided not to. Miniature uses such a tight press fit on their grip bearings that once trying to change tail grip bearings I actually damaged a grip trying to get them out (even with heat). And they always seem to bind up tight when you reinstall if you are not setup with a proper press to get it all in correctly.

I also checked all the ball links. After 200 flights most of them still fit like new - never had such luck with align links.

I also finished up the tail pushrod. Since Ive got the existing wire pushrod as a reference for length it was easy to get the carbon rod built perfect. Again I'm using hysol for strength - scratch up and clean the metal rod realllllly good, and then when the glue sets I coat the outside in more epoxy and heat shrink a sleeve over it for extra insurance.

Almost done. All that's left now is to reinstall the head, re-do the swash levelling, install the tail and muffler and check CG.

Shop time so far: 16 hr
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Old 12-21-2017, 07:45 AM   #43 (permalink)
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Default And we are done!

Drumroll please!

Its finished. I got the swash levelled, head installed, tail installed and setup and put it all back together.

Completion notes:
  • I ended up installing the carbon tail rod with just a single guide, this should be more than enough (it works fine on my TRex).
  • In spite of my careful measuring, the tail control rod came out a little short So I had to use more than ideal neutral offset on the tail servo. It still gets a good +/- 45 degree tail pitch range so Ill live with it
  • Even with all gear upfront its still tail heavy. I swapped out the light 1100 rx pack I was using for a 2500 (5 oz). Still slightly tail heavy on an empty tank, but I will live with it.
  • All up weight after the conversion (no starter) was 13.531lb. My weight before conversion was 13.306lb. I found out that the Zimmerman muffler is actually a little heavier than Hatori (suprised me!) so the conversion is adding about 2-3oz. It may add closer to 4oz if you are starting with all stock v1 parts including the old maingear.
  • If you dont use the lights and generator I do, and use a lighter muffler, getting it down to 12.75lb may be possible.




If the weather cooperates and the snow holds off I will test fly it Friday. If I do I will post observations. I am also writing up a summary of conversion build notes that I'm going to post and send to Josef in case he wants to add them to the instructions.


Overall I'm very happy with the build. It is a little fiddly in places and requires some thought/effort but the result is built like a tank. Its noticeably more robust in build than my TRex and that shows in the all up weight. Which again makes me wonder if a sub-12lb gasser that's durable enough to last is really possible.


I expect that the Whiplash is going to remain my go to "primary" gasser and will continue to fly the smoothest and most precisely. The extra oomph of the 300 should help. However I do expect the Helix will remain my auto contest bird simply due to the advantage of being 0.5lb lighter.




The one concern I have about the design is still CG. On the true V2 with the longer frames I expect its even more tail heavy biased. I know not everybody likes it, but I wonder if Josef could redesign a V3, flip the engine around to forward facing and move the tank under the mainshaft like most nitro's do, and get the CG perfect.
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Old 12-21-2017, 08:17 AM   #44 (permalink)
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This is Beautiful.

Well Done.

BR
Dennis
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Old 12-21-2017, 03:05 PM   #45 (permalink)
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Default Conversion notes

I wrote up my full notes on the conversion in a MS word doc. Feel free to print and share as long as my contact info stays intact.
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Old 12-21-2017, 04:28 PM   #46 (permalink)
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Were did you get that CF rod from?
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Old 12-21-2017, 06:16 PM   #47 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joecass2 View Post
Were did you get that CF rod from?


Its not the one he has but if you want to convert a Whiplash to carbon tail rod just buy a Goblin 770 tail rod and Trex 700 rod guides. The stock Whiplash rod fits perfectly inside the Goblin part and the Trex 700 guide fits the boom, just needs a tiny trim on the hole the rod goes through to make it all line up. It lets you keep the security of the single stock rod but gain the stiffness of carbon.
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Old 12-22-2017, 09:00 AM   #48 (permalink)
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Miniature makes a cf rod conversion. I had one leftover that I bought from Heliproz before they closed. Looks like MA Germany still makes it:

https://www.miniatureaircraftusa.com...55-f6-whiplash

Carey covered installation in his original build thread:
https://www.helifreak.com/showthread...=2#post3916310

What I like about the CF rod is that it slides much smoother in the supports and doesn't rattle in the air like the metal rod does once the supports start to wear out. OTOH the metal rod is cheaper, lighter, and less likely to fail.

I do like your idea of using the wire pushrod inside a goblin graphite tube........
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Old 12-22-2017, 09:07 AM   #49 (permalink)
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Jeremy,

I like the carbon upgrade better than the wire push rod. I've had two wire push rods break in flight on my Whiplash V1 gasser. Crashed the first one, saved the second.
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Old 12-22-2017, 10:31 AM   #50 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Jeremy,

I like the carbon upgrade better than the wire push rod. I've had two wire push rods break in flight on my Whiplash V1 gasser. Crashed the first one, saved the second.
wow, really? What caused the failure? Did the link come off, wire crack from fatigue?


I did have one CF rod come unglued. I used better glue this time, fingers crossed.
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Old 12-22-2017, 04:09 PM   #51 (permalink)
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Default Its Flown!

First flights went off without a hitch!



https://www.helifreak.com/showthread...21#post7506634
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Old 12-22-2017, 09:18 PM   #52 (permalink)
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Hey what transmitter mitt is that? I have one but that one looks nicer then what I got.
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Old 12-23-2017, 07:34 AM   #53 (permalink)
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Default Transmitter mitt

Ace Extreme RC Transmitter Glove | RC Trans Pouch | RC Radio Warm Mitt by Ace Wing Carrier
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Old 12-23-2017, 08:07 AM   #54 (permalink)
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Both push rods broke at the guilds. Crazy stuff!
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Old 12-24-2017, 06:59 AM   #55 (permalink)
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Interesting. Can I ask: Did they both break at the same guide?

I wonder if you had one of them out of alignment, introducing a bend in the rod that put stress on it.
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Old 12-24-2017, 07:49 AM   #56 (permalink)
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No, two different helis, both gas. Both broke in two different places on the boom. One between the middle and front, the other just behind the middle of the boom. None of the guilds were out of alignment, I thought that as well. Both helis had many flights on them, and one of them, the wire was straightened after a crash, but not where it was bent.
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Old 02-07-2018, 11:28 PM   #57 (permalink)
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what pinion size dose the V2 kit come with?
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Old 02-08-2018, 07:55 AM   #58 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joecass2 View Post
what pinion size dose the V2 kit come with?
It comes with the helical 17T and helical 117T main gear - same as the full V2 kit.

Its effectively the same ratio as the old 18:124 straight gearing... 6.88 vs 6.89
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Old 02-08-2018, 05:52 PM   #59 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jharkin View Post
It comes with the helical 17T and helical 117T main gear - same as the full V2 kit.

Its effectively the same ratio as the old 18:124 straight gearing... 6.88 vs 6.89
I have the 16T pinion on my V1 and like it a lot. Do you think in the future they will make that a option?
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Old 02-10-2018, 10:12 AM   #60 (permalink)
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Good job Jeremy!
.....I'm glad you documented your build. Good to know MA Germany is keeping with quality. I have an MA electric 600 and I enjoy flying it, these are nice machines!
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