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Blade 230S Blade 230S Helicopters Information and Help


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Old 02-21-2018, 08:12 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Learning the hard way...

So I haven't flown my 230s since the last time I crashed and repaired it. One of the things I did when I was going through it was check the tail adapter for straightness. What I never thought about was how far onto the shaft to lock it down. I simply pushed it til it bottomed out on the bearing and locked it in, thinking this was the way it's supposed to be. Now during today's events I'm recalling that when it was new, it had some play. Meaning you could grab the tail motor and pull it in and out a little. With the adapter all the way down the shaft, you can't pull the motor in and out at all.

Well, found out the hard way today that this is very incorrect, and a terrible thing to do. Mid flight of my 2nd battery, I was doing some piro's. First I went full left rudder (tail stopped almost dead), then went full right rudder (tail at full speed). This last move must have gotten the tail motor hot enough that it bound up due to the adapter being too far onto the shaft or something, because it came to a near halt at all rudder stick positions and started piro'ing uncontrollably. I immediately flicked it into stability mode knowing I couldn't do this in 3D mode, and came in for a landing while still spinning wildly. As it got close to the ground it started tipping over. Knowing I didn't want to hit the ground under full power, I quickly flicked TH on about 6" off the ground and reduced collective a little. The descent was smooth, but the heli was at about a 45 degree angle, so the blades chopped right into the pavement at almost full speed. The blades hit so hard, it folded one of the stock blades into a V at about a 40 degree angle. One link popped off but didn't break, tail boom bent a little, put a very small tear in the canopy, and broke the tip off a canopy mount that I had previously broken and glued back together.

Main shaft and feathering shaft are still dead straight, blade grips and head still perfect, tail motor still operates flawlessly after it cooled down a hair, and most importantly:
STILL DIDN'T BREAK THE MH TAIL ROTOR!!!

After I conceived my theory of what caused the tail to fail, I fixed the blades, popped the link on, taped the canopy, replaced the canopy mount, bent the boom back straight, and left the tail exactly how I had it. Went back up in the air and replicated the same exact thing; full left rudder for 3 seconds, full right rudder for 3 seconds, tail came to a screeching halt again. I was doing this quite a bit higher this time, and over tall grass. So I did the same, flipped into stability mode, came down slow with it still spinning out of control, and was about to drop it in the grass, and the tail suddenly started working again. So I brought it in for a proper landing. This told me there was an obvious problem with the tail, and the higher altitude gave it a chance to cool a little during the descent, and it kicked back in once cool enough.

So I went ahead and repositioned the tail rotor adapter with a bit of play, allowing the motor to pull in and out about 1mm. Back in the air, full left rudder, full right rudder, full left rudder, full right rudder. Did this for about 2 minutes straight. Tail worked perfectly the entire time. The motor was hot enough to burn my finger when I landed it, but it still worked perfect.

So just for poops and giggles, I put the adapter back down all the way again, and took to the air. Full left rudder, full right rudder... ok, still works... full left rudder, full right rudder, tail stops again and piros out of control. Kicked back in after a couple seconds again though.

Once again, spaced it out a little, tried one last time. With the gap, nothing I did could get it to fail, no matter how long I held full right rudder.

Soooo.... for everyone out there, when installing the tail adapter, do not push it all the way down. Keep a small gap so once it's tightened you can pull the motor in and out 1mm-2mm. I guess I should suggest everyone check theirs now too before the next flight. I'm wondering if some of the motor failures people have had were in fact because the adapter was installed too tight on the shaft.

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Last edited by motoxxxman; 02-21-2018 at 11:46 PM..
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Old 02-22-2018, 08:14 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Just to avoid confusion I am assuming you are talking about Part No 29 in the manual "BLH2020 Tail rotor hub set". I was looking at this the other day when I replaced the tail rotor because I noticed what I thought was too much motor shaft end float (around 1mm). I slackened the two allen screws and tried to push the hub further onto the motor shaft but it wouldn't go on further so I left it. I assume you can push yours full up against the motor. Ideally I would say that this has to be set up with minimal end float but no friction on the motor. Perhaps we should find some small washers to act as shims to set up a sensible amount of end float on the motor. I think 1-2mm is too much. Incidentally I check both motors after each flight and neither of mine get hot, just warm to the touch.
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Old 02-22-2018, 09:20 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Yes that is the part I'm referring to. And that 1mm end play needs to be there.

Did you loosen both set screws? Or only one? From the factory, the hub is usually pretty stuck on the shaft, probably from excessive threadlock. A little twisting frees it up.

Shimming would defeat the purpose, and would be no different than pushing the hub all the way down, again causing it to overheat and bind.
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Old 02-22-2018, 09:22 AM   #4 (permalink)
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On a similar note, push the pinion down (do not loosen the pinion set screw) on the main motor and check out how much end play there is. You'll be shocked. But it's necessary
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Old 02-22-2018, 10:04 AM   #5 (permalink)
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I agree there needs to be some end play to avoid binding but 1mm is quite a lot for that. I am just going to leave it. As they say "if it works don't fix it"

I did notice on my 180 motor that the pinion was the only thing holding the two motor components together. Without anything on the shaft it is possible to pull the the motor apart and its the magnetism that is holding the parts together. I guess the 230 motors are the same.
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Old 02-23-2018, 03:26 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Interesting topic.
Naturally i checked mine which hasn't been flown yet. It does not have any play in it, so i'm thinking i should loosen it up.
Too me any motor that spins like this tail motor should have some play for when it heats up.
Nice too is that you guys share your findings.
I would have probably pulled my hair out trying to figure this one out....
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Old 02-23-2018, 03:50 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Yep I would definitely loosen the hub a bit. Slacken the two grub screws and easy the hub out a little. These motors can be a little fragile and any binding will heat them up and cook the windings, plus the tail motor needs to react quickly so the binding would cause tail wag.

Good luck with the flying.
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Old 02-23-2018, 06:11 PM   #8 (permalink)
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I wish I had taken pics of the aftermath. The folded stock main blade was quite interesting to see lol. Even more impressive was being able to straighten it back out and get right back to flying haha
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Old 02-24-2018, 04:29 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Old 02-27-2018, 12:19 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikem65d View Post
Interesting topic.
Naturally i checked mine which hasn't been flown yet. It does not have any play in it, so i'm thinking i should loosen it up.
Too me any motor that spins like this tail motor should have some play for when it heats up.
Nice too is that you guys share your findings.
I would have probably pulled my hair out trying to figure this one out....
Mine is exactly the same, zero play. Although it spins freely and I've been flying it regular for over 12 months. Go figure......
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