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Old 08-01-2019, 08:26 AM   #21 (permalink)
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i presume it has to do with centrifugal forces but I can't really explain it in detail
All I know is that it should snap back to center. When it was even slightly lagging/slow i had a tail wag.

I can't find the video at this moment, I'll have a look later
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Old 08-01-2019, 08:30 AM   #22 (permalink)
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i presume it has to do with centrifugal forces but I can't really explain it in detail
All I know is that it should snap back to center. When it was even slightly lagging/slow i had a tail wag.

I can't find the video at this moment, I'll have a look later
ive seen the vid, but why would it go to center when there is no blades to have a force to move it at all?
who says it should go to neutral being disconnected from the servo? no doubting you, just wondering..
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Old 08-01-2019, 10:54 AM   #23 (permalink)
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looking at the bladeholder it's symmetric except the ball link and the connected links. Centrifugal forces will send those outward (thus centering the slider). Although it's very light it is spinning at 8000RPM, so it will be significantly heavier. At least, that's what I think.

(i've had a significant vibration on another heli which turned out to be 1 of the 2 blade bolts being 1 gram heavier. At first I didnt believe that that could be enough for such a heavy vibration, but switching the bolt solved the issue completely)
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Old 08-01-2019, 08:34 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by tonys-heli View Post
I found it easier to just find better thrust bearings.

I did that too but it didn't solve everything. I had an older set up tail grips laying around that I thought I'd throw on and see what happens that that fixed things more than the thrust bearings did. I also still was dealing with the tail not holding during pitch pumps and hard climb outs. While we did a ton of tuning at IRCHA, I don't feel it should have been that difficult.



I do think that adding the 3-6 degrees of pitch at neutral may have helped. I know that I lot of people say to just keep it centered and the gyro would take care of the rest. I don't know if it's coincidence or not, but after adding more pitch at neutral, the wag was pretty much gone and the tail was pretty solid. Unfortunately, my tail box slid on the boom which ended up causing the tail blade grip to break in flight. Once I replace the tail grips, I'll have to test this theory and see if that is what the fix truly was. It's hard to say for sure since so many things were adjusted, even though the tail end points were no where near equal.
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Old 08-01-2019, 09:59 PM   #25 (permalink)
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what i noticed was the thrust bearings had to fit easily in the tail grips.. if they didnt, a little smoothing on the outside of the thrust races helped.
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Old 08-02-2019, 05:17 AM   #26 (permalink)
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what i noticed was the thrust bearings had to fit easily in the tail grips.. if they didnt, a little smoothing on the outside of the thrust races helped.
Yes, also very important indeed. The blade grips should spin easily on the hub
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Old 08-02-2019, 11:11 AM   #27 (permalink)
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Are you using grease on the thrust bearing? If so the blade grips will not spin that easily on the hub.
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Old 08-02-2019, 12:02 PM   #28 (permalink)
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that's what I noticed as well. I've used some grease, over time it will get smoother anyway
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Old 08-02-2019, 02:02 PM   #29 (permalink)
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In my case, it's a logo 600sx, slow wag and kick upon adding collective. I've fiddled with all things tail and the only visible difference was when I upped the tail blade size from 95mm to 105. I also realize each case is an individual thing.
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Old 08-02-2019, 10:53 PM   #30 (permalink)
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In my case, it's a logo 600sx, slow wag and kick upon adding collective. I've fiddled with all things tail and the only visible difference was when I upped the tail blade size from 95mm to 105. I also realize each case is an individual thing.

I had the exact same issue. Honestly, according to some that were helping me tune at IRCHA, they felt the tail push rod was slightly too long. It needed to go shorter and the screws were bottomed out. They added several degrees of pitch at mid stick and in order to get travels decent, the rod needed to be shorter. Anyway, I've ordered new tail grips and rod which I intend to make a few mm shorter and see what happens. Before my tail box slipped, the tail was holding really well. BUT, I also swapped out the NEO and replaced with a Futabt CGY760.
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Old 08-03-2019, 07:28 AM   #31 (permalink)
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swapping my neo isn't an option..
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Old 08-03-2019, 07:47 AM   #32 (permalink)
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I donít think thatís the problem though. I think it had something to do with either the rod length or not having enough pitch at neutral. I have to test it again though.
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Old 08-03-2019, 08:18 AM   #33 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gtruk View Post
I had the exact same issue. Honestly, according to some that were helping me tune at IRCHA, they felt the tail push rod was slightly too long. It needed to go shorter and the screws were bottomed out. They added several degrees of pitch at mid stick and in order to get travels decent, the rod needed to be shorter. Anyway, I've ordered new tail grips and rod which I intend to make a few mm shorter and see what happens. Before my tail box slipped, the tail was holding really well. BUT, I also swapped out the NEO and replaced with a Futabt CGY760.
If you need just a few mm you can shorten the ball links.
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Old 08-03-2019, 09:51 AM   #34 (permalink)
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you don't need a new rod.. you can cut it and epoxy a sleeve over the rod. this way the ends are still built.. I do it all the time.
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Old 08-08-2019, 06:41 PM   #35 (permalink)
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Alright guys, I've got some new info...at least to me. In my attempt to replace my tail blade grips, the crappy screws holding them in stripped with the most minor amount of torque, so I ended up having to order an entire tail with hub, grips, and bearings. And guess what, they changed some things! The outside bearing of the grip is still 4x8x3 but the inside bearing is now 4x8x2 and I swear the brass spacer is slightly bigger as well. Previously, the inside bearing was 4x8x3 so I'm excited to get her back in the air and see if that takes care of things. Unfortunately the pitch slider is toast and I don't get a new one until sometime Friday so I'll post again if things are better!
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Old 10-02-2019, 03:24 PM   #36 (permalink)
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Alright guys, I've got some new info...at least to me. In my attempt to replace my tail blade grips, the crappy screws holding them in stripped with the most minor amount of torque, so I ended up having to order an entire tail with hub, grips, and bearings. And guess what, they changed some things! The outside bearing of the grip is still 4x8x3 but the inside bearing is now 4x8x2 and I swear the brass spacer is slightly bigger as well. Previously, the inside bearing was 4x8x3 so I'm excited to get her back in the air and see if that takes care of things. Unfortunately the pitch slider is toast and I don't get a new one until sometime Friday so I'll post again if things are better!
Any updates for us?
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Old 10-05-2019, 01:24 PM   #37 (permalink)
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I ended up sanding the tail shaft with very fine sanding paper and that solved the problem.
There is some information on the Mikado vstabi website about the tail output shaft being slightly oversized for the bearing and that the shaft should be reduced in diameter to 4.95mm or thereabouts.
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Old 10-05-2019, 01:37 PM   #38 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Andy from Sandy View Post
Quote:
I ended up sanding the tail shaft with very fine sanding paper and that solved the problem.
There is some information on the Mikado vstabi website about the tail
output shaft being slightly oversized for the bearing and that the shaft should be reduced in diameter to 4.95mm or thereabouts.
Thanks for info
But if it is oversized, why don’t they make them in a smaller diameter..
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Old 10-05-2019, 03:14 PM   #39 (permalink)
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Too late they were already made and in the bag for sale.
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Old 10-06-2019, 12:52 PM   #40 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Too late they were already made and in the bag for sale.
What's the part number?
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