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Quest and Kyosho Kyosho Caliber, Kyosho Helicopters


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Old 07-23-2018, 06:12 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Neo Caliber 90 build thread

Hi guys thereís not a lot of activity in this part of town so Iíve decided to show you my new Caliber 90.

I got it from RCJ a few month ago and took enough pictures to make a build thread so here we go!
I have to thank RCJapan for their excellent service and their help in sourcing difficult to find parts.

It is the Quest Neo-Caliber 90-720 flybarred version converted to fbl right out of the box. Iíve ordered it as a flybared machine but changed my mind while building it as I was worried the FB head wonít accept the 3D torture.
The difference between the Neo Caliber 720 and the original Caliber 90 is the Canopy, aluminium gyro mount, low profile skid and longer tail boom and there are two flywheel mounts supplied in order to accommodate both YS and OS engines. Of course the lower frames donít have the Kyosho engravings anymore but the Quest one and like before the one you see is reversedÖ C90 owners know what Iím talking about
I think these are all the differences.


It has always been my dream machine, since I was a little kid I saw pictures of it in the Kyosho catalogues and I knew since then that one day I would own one for sure.

After a few month of ownership all I can say is that it is exactly what I hoped for. The build was a real pleasure and I do not regret buying it only now after owning some of the best quality machines like JR and Hirobo helis. Build quality is one of the best Iíve seen, parts quality as well and the gold/Champagne finishÖ Amazing!

The equipments I used are:
OS 105 anniversary edition
Hatori F3C pipe for Caliber 90
Futaba CGY 750
Futaba bls275 on cyclic
Bls 251 on the tail
Bls 451 for throttle and needle
Reactor X
R7008sb
Funtech 720 F3C

Optional parts:
90 shore hard dampers
Carbon radio plate
140į conversion kit
Old style swashplate to accommodate the 140 ccpm
Original canopy

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Old 07-24-2018, 03:29 AM   #2 (permalink)
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No fancy box art or packaging here like the original Kyosho C90, Quest decided to sell it in a plain cardboard box with all the parts in a separate smaller box.

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Needless to say however that all the parts are very nicely packaged in a way that they wonít scratch each other. Parts for each steps of the build are sealed in the same plastic pouch making it easy to know what goes where.

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Old 07-24-2018, 03:36 AM   #3 (permalink)
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The first step is to put together the main ladder frame.
For those unfamiliar with the Caliber line of helicopters, the ladder frame is the structural core of the helicopter and everything is designed around it. It hosts the belted transmission and thus the main shaft. Both the upper and lower carbon frames are bolted on it so it forms an extremely rigid assembly. The 2006 variant of the Caliber 90 have had the lower frame made of a separate carbon frame assy instead of a ladder frame extending from the upper part of the chassis making the whole thing lighter.

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Even though the middle bearing support has the hole to put a bearing in it, the helicopter is shipped with only two active bearing supports so I’ve installed a third bearing in the ladder frame. It will stiffen up the whole upper frame assembly via the main shaft. It requires a little extra attention during assembly but nothing unconventional.
All screw holes are bored to accommodate an aluminium locating insert to make sure that all the parts line up perfectly.

Next step was to screw in the upped frames on the ladder frame assembly with all the spacers, the upper bearing support and the fan mount. I have bought the optional carbon radio plate that gives me more space to place the radio components. More on that later. I did not tighten the screws until much later in the build, when I joined the upper and the lower frames together to make sure everything would be aligned and true.
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Old 07-24-2018, 03:48 AM   #4 (permalink)
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We now have to assemble the one way bearing to the main belt pulley. Very high quality parts there, the pictures speak for themselves. I was disappointed however that both tail pulleys werenít anodised in gold but in that gunmetal colourÖ

We then slide on the one way bearing, main pinion and tail belt pulley on the shaft that has all the necessary flats and set screw locators on the ladder frame. Donít forget the beltÖ

Do the same with the main gear. What a thing of beautyÖ It wonít be out of place in a jewellery store! Iíve randomly unscrewed a few of itís screws and they were all loctited. Donít screw them too hard or youíll ruin the gear. Slide in the main shaft and tighten the Jesus bolt.

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Old 07-24-2018, 03:51 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Next on is the cooling fan. Pretty straight forward, donít tighten its bolt just yet as youíll adjust the beltís tension later on.

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Old 07-24-2018, 03:56 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Now we get to assemble the lower frame, starting by putting together the engine assembly.

The engine Iíll be using is an OS 105 Anniversary Edition. It is a regular OS 105 HZ-R with gold anodised parts to go with the general theme and a black engine block. The internals are identical to the regular 105.

Since the one way unit is at a later stage of the transmission chain, the starter wand needs to be equipped with one or youíll have the engine die every time if you donít pull out the wand quickly enough

The newer kits are supplied with two flywheel mounts too accommodate YS and OS engines, which is nice. The threads are reversed so as the engine spines it will tightened the flywheel on itís mount. Slide on the main pulley on the shaft. Iíve applied a small amount of blue loctite on the inner race of its bearings to stop a minute amount of play that my slimest shim could not take out after bolting on the start hex/fan pulley assy. The tricky part is when youíll mount the whole assy on the crankshaft.

I have initially assembled it with blue loctite in a generous amount but the whole thing came off for the second startÖ Iíve cleaned it really well and assembled it again with red loctite this time. Iíve painted the crankshaft in red and it hasnít moved since, even when the 105 was flooded and stalled my Dynatron on 3S. For me it is one of the trickiest step of the build as the manual does not emphasise enough on the red loctite part.

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Old 07-24-2018, 03:59 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Next up is to bolt the engine to itís mount. Watch out for the orientation. Pretty straight forward thing to do. Next thing to do was to build the lower frames around the engine and like the upper frames, leave the screws pretty loose, Iíve tightened everything down only after joining the two frames together with the main shaft in place and with the whole thing held down on a glass table. That way I can be sure that everything stays nice and true during the whole process and everything lined up well.

The fuel tank was no hassle, Iíve just replaced the very soft fuel tube by a regular piece of tubing out of habit. Some may say itís not the right way to do it but Iíve had bad thing happen to me before with that kind of tubing before. The tank itself is held down by 4 rubber grommets and even though it can move by a big amount Iíve never had any problems with that.

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Old 07-24-2018, 04:13 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Now is finally the time we join both frames together. As said before I havenít tighten the screws so after joining the frames together on a glass table I had to face the tedious process of removing every screws one by one, starting by the most important ones first, apply loctite and torquing them down in a criss cross pattern.
This process took me almost an hour to complete but it is one of the quirks of building a stacked frame F3C helicopter.

We can put the landing gears now. They are the low profile ones instead of the very high stock Kyosho skids.

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Old 09-21-2018, 04:31 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Default Nice!

Very , very nice. I'm finishing up a Neo-Caliber 50 at the moment (from RCJ as well).

Would love to get one of these later. Always liked the 90 Caliber. Thanks for posting this build. I'll be following, for sure!
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Old 12-31-2018, 09:21 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Guys I'm sorry if I didn't follow through the build thread, got caught up in some other things and quite frankly I forgot about it... Anyway here is part two

Since I was waiting for the parts to convert the head to 140į ccpm I jumped straight to the tail section. Man those parts are niceÖ There are a lot of them but the whole thing is silky smooth and with no slop at all. The only thing to pay attention to is to leave a tiny bit of play between the tail case and the levers when inserting the torque shaft otherwise there might be some binding. Also the way the tail pulley is assembled takes away any play there could be so again, Iím impressed by this 20 plus year old design. The tail is actuated by a push pull system made of tiny carbon rods. It is more like a pull pull system as the little carbon rods are so flimsy they bend under compression. They are guided by rubber guides simply glued on the beautiful carbon tail boom. There was a lot of friction at first but after a couple of flights the fuel lubed up everything.
One thing to note is that you cannot use the whole travel otherwise the tail blade grips will reverse and lock themselves in that position. I left the travel at 100 on the CGY 750 and it seems to work very well that way even with the stock 95mm plastic tail blades.
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Old 01-15-2019, 04:02 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Thanks for continuing this thread.

Iím looking at buying a Neo Caliber 120-720 for my OS105HZ-R Anniversary Edition. The engine is gold and black. Iím not sure what gear ratio to order it with. Apparently you can just tell them what you want and theyíll package the kit as requested. I was planning on the flybar head and maybe three blade tail.
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Old 01-15-2019, 04:06 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Sorry I hadnít looked at this for a while and just realised youíre using the same engine!
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