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Old 09-19-2018, 11:32 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Looking for manual for whiplash 120

I bought a used whiplash ? with a YS 120 in it, he mentioned it had a longer tail boom, other than that I know not much else other than electronics it has.


I am looking for the manuals for it and a way to identify exactly what variant / version I have. It is almost all carbon fiber except tail boom (i think) and has a header tank and XCELL written in the carbon on the left side of the heli.

thanks in advance.
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Old 09-25-2018, 10:37 AM   #2 (permalink)
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More than likely you have a v1. The difference is, the v1 has a one way bearing in the clutch stack and the v2 has the one way bearing in the main gear. I believe v2's are just coming out now? You can get the conversion kit to convert from v1 to v2. I'd check with Scott at Cajun Aircraft about a manual.
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Old 09-25-2018, 05:09 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jiminator View Post
More than likely you have a v1. The difference is, the v1 has a one way bearing in the clutch stack and the v2 has the one way bearing in the main gear. I believe v2's are just coming out now? You can get the conversion kit to convert from v1 to v2. I'd check with Scott at Cajun Aircraft about a manual.

really only dif? why would anyone want to convert then?
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Old 09-28-2018, 09:18 AM   #4 (permalink)
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The one way didn't hold up very well in the original position. If you don't fly very hard it may not be much of an issue. In the gasser version a lot of the guys were getting what they called the "nah nahs". Which is what the heli sounded like as the one way was slipping. I don't know if the nitro guys were experiencing this as well. I just fly and enjoy my gasser and if it ever starts doing this I'll just replace the owb.

Last edited by jiminator; 09-28-2018 at 11:57 AM..
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Old 09-28-2018, 11:55 AM   #5 (permalink)
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https://www.cajunaircraft.com/produc...=6168765530150

This is the conversion kit to convert from v1 to v2.
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Old 09-28-2018, 11:58 AM   #6 (permalink)
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thanks i appreciate the help

one last thing, some of the bolts are on really good and one I just nearly stripped a bit witha sub par driver.


whats the best way to get screws out so I can build it into that? some I could not get off without stripping the heads. and then Ill be pissed lmao
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Old 09-28-2018, 12:59 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Which bolts are you talking about? If they are frame side bolts that hold the chassis together, in a pinch you could use a dremel tool to grind a slot in the head of the bolt and then attempt to use a flat head screwdriver to unscrew it. Also heating up the bolt with a soldering iron can cause the locktite holding the bolt in place to unstick.

Best investment you can make if you're able to, is get a nice set of MIP drivers. Made wrenching on my helis alot more enjoyable Sounds like the guy who assembled your ship used plenty of locktite which is not necessarily a bad thing on a nitro
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Old 09-28-2018, 01:05 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Oh god are those the ones that have that wierd smelly resin for the handles? i forget the brand we had in the navy but the tips came out of the handle to use other drvers with them but they smelled so bad the resin of the handle gave off this intoxicating smell when you used them..

if those are the same then hell no lol.

the bolts:


Kinda it is a few bolts here and there, mainly ones going to the motor mounts, some in frame to frame on bottom (to pull the engine out etc)

some go from carbon to carbon i think tho, which i thought loctite only on screws going into metal (even if passing thru cf) cus trying to get it out of the CF would be impossible without breaking it?
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Old 09-28-2018, 04:45 PM   #9 (permalink)
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These are the ones I'm talking about. On my set the handles do not detach from the driver portion. Never smelled any weird smell from them either. Yeah typically you only put loctite on metal to metal. Maybe a little got in the wrong place and is causing some extra stiction.

https://www.miponline.com/MIP-Hex-Dr...and-2-5mm-9502
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Old 10-05-2018, 06:51 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jiminator View Post
The one way didn't hold up very well in the original position. If you don't fly very hard it may not be much of an issue. In the gasser version a lot of the guys were getting what they called the "nah nahs". Which is what the heli sounded like as the one way was slipping. I don't know if the nitro guys were experiencing this as well. I just fly and enjoy my gasser and if it ever starts doing this I'll just replace the owb.

Its not if, its when your gasser will do it. And once it does sooner or later it will lock up and eat the maingear in flight.


If you fly the V1, you better be good at emergency autos.. you will need to do one eventually. I went though 2 or 3 before I converted.




The V2 adds a bunch of other upgrades beside the new OWB. All the gears are full CNC and run much truer with less slop. The entire TT assembly is completely redesigned and the bearings fit perfectly with zero wobble. Better quality bearings are used throughout. The full V2 also has stretched frames to fit 720 size blades, tweaks to the tail pitch assembly, head, and other items.




Really, the conversion is worth it just for the OWB... the other stuff is icing.
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Old 10-05-2018, 10:25 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jharkin View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by jiminator View Post
The one way didn't hold up very well in the original position. If you don't fly very hard it may not be much of an issue. In the gasser version a lot of the guys were getting what they called the "nah nahs". Which is what the heli sounded like as the one way was slipping. I don't know if the nitro guys were experiencing this as well. I just fly and enjoy my gasser and if it ever starts doing this I'll just replace the owb.

Its not if, its when your gasser will do it. And once it does sooner or later it will lock up and eat the maingear in flight.


If you fly the V1, you better be good at emergency autos.. you will need to do one eventually. I went though 2 or 3 before I converted.




The V2 adds a bunch of other upgrades beside the new OWB. All the gears are full CNC and run much truer with less slop. The entire TT assembly is completely redesigned and the bearings fit perfectly with zero wobble. Better quality bearings are used throughout. The full V2 also has stretched frames to fit 720 size blades, tweaks to the tail pitch assembly, head, and other items.




Really, the conversion is worth it just for the OWB... the other stuff is icing.
I'm not using the gasser it's the 90 size. it has a 1.20 ys120 in it?

still need it or is the be be converstion for the gasser model only??
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Old 10-05-2018, 11:31 AM   #12 (permalink)
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After reading Jeremy's nice explanation I'm re-thinking making the v1 to v2 conversion. @navyguy, the link I provided above is for the nitro conversion. I don't know if the the gasser conversion kit is different than the nitro conversion kit but either way I'd just buy the one labeled for your model. I don't know how many flights I have on my gasser I have changed out the one way once. I did this before experiencing the "nah nahs". Call it preventative maintenance. They sell an upgraded one way but it doesn't do away with the problem. I'd say just get your heli airborne first before worrying about converting it.
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Old 10-18-2018, 05:12 AM   #13 (permalink)
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There is definitely a unique conversion kit for each model. The layout is similar but the gas and nitro have different clutch designs and main gears. They both used the same faulty OWB, just had the most problem reports on gas, afaik.
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