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Old 02-21-2019, 11:46 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default My L480 build

My L480 is slated to arrive tomorrow so will likely get started on building and planning despite not having all my electronics yet.

Figured I'd start a thread for my build as I'm sure I'll have more than one question and already do, lol.

What frequency are you running your SH1250MG's at? Spirit (and BeastX) states 200Hz in their Servo databases but the specs I found on the dealers site was 250-333Hz. Should I set 200Hz in the Spirit?

What about brown out prevention... Going with the HW 100A v3 and standard Spirit. Advisable to run a capacitor across the only free + and - pin I have open? (Ele/Pit pins)

Thanks
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Old 02-21-2019, 08:35 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I run my Logo 550 V2 with a HW 100 V3 and zero issues with the BEC running 3 full size Airtronics 94774 servos on cyclic and a Savox SB2252mg on the tail. Just added up the flights and 343 to date with zero issues with anything on the heli. I would not be worried about the bec on the HW esc myself, but I am sure there will be other opinions. Enjoy the 480.
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Old 02-21-2019, 08:54 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I run my Logo 550 V2 with a HW 100 V3 and zero issues with the BEC running 3 full size Airtronics 94774 servos on cyclic and a Savox SB2252mg on the tail. Just added up the flights and 343 to date with zero issues with anything on the heli. I would not be worried about the bec on the HW esc myself, but I am sure there will be other opinions. Enjoy the 480.


Good to know. Donít have the ability on the standard Spirit while using Jeti integration for the capacitor to even do its thing. So the built in BEC is going to need to be enough. Iím sure it will be.


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Old 02-27-2019, 12:02 AM   #4 (permalink)
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My kit arrived last night.

While I have a Logo 600, it was bought used so Iíve never built a Logo. Is it just my kit or are the Mikado bearings super sticky?

One of the 2 mainshaft bearings is really slow and doesnít spin freely at all. Even feels a bit notchy but has got a bit better with some exercise.

The swash is really tight feeling too as well as the internal bearings on the pitch slider.

Will these all relax with time or are they begging for lube? Iím not a routine bearing oiler so itíll kinda suck if I have to start for this one heli.

Thoughts?


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Old 02-27-2019, 06:13 AM   #5 (permalink)
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My swash was tight it works in overtime. If you feel the bearings are bad swap them out. I would just build it.
Some tips that come to mind:

Lightly sand and epoxy the tail rod ends.

Be sure and have your anti static kit in place.

Enjoy the build!
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Old 02-27-2019, 12:13 PM   #6 (permalink)
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My swash was tight it works in overtime. If you feel the bearings are bad swap them out. I would just build it.
Some tips that come to mind:

Lightly sand and epoxy the tail rod ends.

Be sure and have your anti static kit in place.

Enjoy the build!


The bearings have loosened a bit since rotating them but are still tight. I think Iíll just build as is and monitor them to ensure they loosen more after some break in flights.

I suspect some Tri-Flow on the swash will help it loosen up too.

Yep, Iíll be throwing that anti-static kit on!


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Old 02-27-2019, 01:04 PM   #7 (permalink)
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The bearings have loosened a bit since rotating them but are still tight. I think Iíll just build as is and monitor them to ensure they loosen more after some break in flights.
I'm not sure what you are sensing, but the bearings should be packed full of grease so the inner race is not going to spin freely.
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Old 02-27-2019, 02:36 PM   #8 (permalink)
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I'm not sure what you are sensing, but the bearings should be packed full of grease so the inner race is not going to spin freely.


Ya, and perhaps thatís normal for these bearings. Iím just used to bearings that spin without this amount of resistance. Oddly, the top bearing block bearing is much more akin to what Iíd expect from past builds, Oxy and Protos).

Iím going to run with it and see where it takes me though.


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Old 02-27-2019, 06:33 PM   #9 (permalink)
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They will spin better after proper spin, no worries.
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Old 02-27-2019, 07:44 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Update.

Something just ainít right with this bottom bearing.

I tried to dry slide the main shaft through the uninstalled bearing and it gets jammed up pretty good and wonít actually make it more than 1/3 of the way deep. I figured Iíd lube the mainshaft once I got the frame full assembled and all would be well. Even lubed up with Tri-Flow it still wonít slide through this frigginí bearing, lol. Just gets deep enough to become a real PITA to pull out again.

Think Iíll send my dealer an email and see if a replacement can be sent out. This thing has got to go.



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Old 02-27-2019, 07:55 PM   #11 (permalink)
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just put it in a drill and spin it with 600 grit paper with oil.. couple passes with the paper, clean it off good... it'll slide right through. most mainshafts have a little rough spots from machining.
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Old 02-27-2019, 11:02 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by tonys-heli View Post
just put it in a drill and spin it with 600 grit paper with oil.. couple passes with the paper, clean it off good... it'll slide right through. most mainshafts have a little rough spots from machining.


Might try that, but this bearing still has to go. Itís killing my will to live.

Couple more questions for yíall...

1. Is the manual calling for both these washers or chose one or the other depending on the desired dampening?


2. Should I order a reamer for the links or run them as tight as they are and have them loosen over time?


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Old 02-28-2019, 05:52 AM   #13 (permalink)
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choose one shim depending on what head speed you like.. high would be hard and slower would be soft, im pretty sure.
the links I would leave alone for 10-15 flights.. if their still tight, I pinch them with pliers just a bit, while installed.. but that method is much debated but I haven't had a problem.. ever.
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Old 02-28-2019, 11:18 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Well, stuck waiting on my SuperLube to get delivered. Pretty much built everything I can and will deal with spindle assembly of head and tail rotors once my grease arrives.

Hereís what strikes me as odd...

The elevator servo ball is offset to the left of the swash ball so the link wonít be parallel to the mainshaft. Whatís the deal there?


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Old 03-01-2019, 07:10 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ryguy76 View Post
Well, stuck waiting on my SuperLube to get delivered. Pretty much built everything I can and will deal with spindle assembly of head and tail rotors once my grease arrives.

Here’s what strikes me as odd...

The elevator servo ball is offset to the left of the swash ball so the link won’t be parallel to the mainshaft. What’s the deal there?


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Shim the servo out with spacers.. there’s a bunch available, most are carbon fiber.
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Old 03-01-2019, 12:00 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Shim the servo out with spacers.. thereís a bunch available, most are carbon fiber.
What?? really? I'm using the Savox servos it was designed around. Seems ridiculous that I need to spend more money to get the servo to swash geometry correct? Is this what others have done?
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Old 03-01-2019, 02:28 PM   #17 (permalink)
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No, I use the same servos and it flies fine stock. The angles aren't all perfect 90į, but it doesn't matter, at least not with VBar. I've never had to mod any of my Logos; they all fly great out of the box.
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Old 03-01-2019, 02:44 PM   #18 (permalink)
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my geometry is perfect 90's, with shims. do what you want but a lot of helis need shims.. that's what there designed for.
you could use a shorter ball also. but different servos have diff mounting dimentions and aren't exactly the same, so I use shims to get it 90.
on my logo 480, I think I have kst's.
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Old 03-01-2019, 02:52 PM   #19 (permalink)
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When I first built mine did some spacers with aluminum.
When I rebuilt it recently, didn't put them, flies just as good 😊👍
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Old 03-01-2019, 03:08 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tonys-heli View Post
my geometry is perfect 90's, with shims. do what you want but a lot of helis need shims.. that's what there designed for.
you could use a shorter ball also. but different servos have diff mounting dimentions and aren't exactly the same, so I use shims to get it 90.
on my logo 480, I think I have kst's.
I could see needing to shim servos if you were going with a different servo other than the one that they include with the kit and have pictured in the manual. But if the kit servos need shimming, then shims should be included is what I'm sayin'.

Sounds like the imperfectly angled links isn't a big deal though, it just hurts my OCD mind and gives me something else to be fixated on unnecessarily, lol.

Thanks Greg and Luigi for chiming in.
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