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Old 03-03-2019, 10:02 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Default My L480 build

Any tips/tricks for getting this mainshaft cir-clip on and off?


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Old 03-04-2019, 01:33 AM   #22 (permalink)
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Right angle snap ring pliers
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Old 03-04-2019, 05:47 AM   #23 (permalink)
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harbor freight has them.. 6 bucks.
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Old 03-04-2019, 07:05 AM   #24 (permalink)
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The right tool for the job.

Just be careful to open the c clip just far enough to fit over the main shaft. It is quite easy to go past the elastic limit of c clips.
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Old 03-04-2019, 10:34 AM   #25 (permalink)
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Thanks fellas! Pliers ordered.


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Old 03-04-2019, 03:22 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Spoke to MikadoUSA and my dealer and theyíre sending me out another bearing as a replacement for the bottom bearing block.

They agreed that the fact thatís itís slightly notchy and the mainshaft canít slide through even when not installed in the frame just doesnít sound right. Especially considering the mainshaft slides through the top bearing just fine.

I donít have an arbor but was going to use a wood dowel and my drill press. Is there likely to be any retaining compound used between the bearing and bearing block that will require heat before pressing the bearing out?


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Old 03-04-2019, 04:04 PM   #27 (permalink)
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Spoke to MikadoUSA and my dealer and they’re sending me out another bearing as a replacement for the bottom bearing block.

They agreed that the fact that’s it’s slightly notchy and the mainshaft can’t slide through even when not installed in the frame just doesn’t sound right. Especially considering the mainshaft slides through the top bearing just fine.

I don’t have an arbor but was going to use a wood dowel and my drill press. Is there likely to be any retaining compound used between the bearing and bearing block that will require heat before pressing the bearing out?


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there might be some compound in there, but just see if it will pop out with the press, without heat first. I wouldn't put any back in as long as its a tight fit, which I don't see why it wouldn't being new.
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Old 03-04-2019, 04:24 PM   #28 (permalink)
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there might be some compound in there, but just see if it will pop out with the press, without heat first. I wouldn't put any back in as long as its a tight fit, which I don't see why it wouldn't being new.
Will do. I'm hoping it's easy peasy. I've had good results getting bearings and mainshafts out on my drill press in the past, but none have had retaining compound fighting me.
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Old 03-07-2019, 01:20 PM   #29 (permalink)
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Thoughts on using the rubber grommets that come with the Savox 1250's per the manual vs ditching them and using washers to remove the slight bit of movement that the grommets still allow even when fastened tightly?
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Old 03-07-2019, 02:33 PM   #30 (permalink)
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Thoughts on using the rubber grommets that come with the Savox 1250's per the manual vs ditching them and using washers to remove the slight bit of movement that the grommets still allow even when fastened tightly?
im not a grommet guy.. not one on any of my helis. I tried but they still moved a little..
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Old 03-09-2019, 01:44 PM   #31 (permalink)
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SuperLube came in so was able to build the head and tail now. Head is silky smooth but the tail grips arenít smooth if the bolts get fully snugged on the tail spindle. Built it twice to confirm the bearings were all seated correctly, which they are.

Do I just rely on loctite and just tighten to the point it stops being smooth, (maybe an 1/8 turn from snug)? No axial play when I do this but I donít love the idea of relying 100% on loctite.

Suggestions or think of anything I might be doing wrong?


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Old 03-09-2019, 05:12 PM   #32 (permalink)
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SuperLube came in so was able to build the head and tail now. Head is silky smooth but the tail grips arenít smooth if the bolts get fully snugged on the tail spindle. Built it twice to confirm the bearings were all seated correctly, which they are.

Do I just rely on loctite and just tighten to the point it stops being smooth, (maybe an 1/8 turn from snug)? No axial play when I do this but I donít love the idea of relying 100% on loctite.

Suggestions or think of anything I might be doing wrong?


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I tighten the bolts fully. There will be a little resistance initially, but they should turn smoothly when you pull out on the grips. They will loosen up after a few flights.
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Old 03-09-2019, 06:45 PM   #33 (permalink)
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Put it together and fly it! All that stuff works itself out...and what Greg said too..
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Old 03-09-2019, 07:57 PM   #34 (permalink)
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Put it together and fly it! All that stuff works itself out...and what Greg said too..

Call me gun shy, lol. In my experience, my tails have had to be butter smooth or it doesnít go well. Especially my Protos 500.

I bought my 600 used so havenít built a Logo before and am just weirded out by how tight everything is. Iíll take your words for it though. Thanks for responding and easing my mind on this stuff. Being a perfectionist is hard.


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Old 03-14-2019, 12:25 AM   #35 (permalink)
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Default My L480 build

Alright Fellas, I need you to talk me off a ledge right now...

I've had the most frustrating night of my 6 years in this rc heli hobby.

Started out great. The replacement bearing I mentioned earlier in this thread arrived and it slipped into the bottom bracket just fine and the mainshaft fits through as it should and spins exactly like I'd expect a bearing to spin. So with that, I was able to finish up the mainshaft build and the clamp down on the boom and tail, in theory.

This tail case is easily the worst designed thing I've encountered in this hobby. Really Mikado?

While I could get the carbon plates parallel, I'm 100% sure that the holes in the plates don't align with the opposite side therefore while parallel, they're still skewed lengthwise and cause the tail shaft to not be 90ļ to the boom. I undid it and tried several times but after an hour and a half of messing around, I can't get the belt tensioner cross support parallel with the tail shaft. Best I can do leaves the metal cross support beneath it at the stupidest of angles to it, which looks ridiculous and the carbon plates not superimposed on each other when looking at it from the side.

Debating purchasing the Spedix tail case and scraping the stock tail case.

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Old 03-14-2019, 01:10 AM   #36 (permalink)
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Stack the two carbon side plates on top of each other aligning the tail shaft bearings. Do the other holes line up?
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Old 03-14-2019, 01:14 AM   #37 (permalink)
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Stack the two carbon side plates on top of each other aligning the tail shaft bearings. Do the other holes line up?


Thatíll be my next test tomorrow. I was going to do that tonight but had to stop and walk away.


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Old 03-14-2019, 07:39 AM   #38 (permalink)
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Mikado makes a really neat metal bracket, but its for the 22mm booms not the 20.. I would just line them up and run a small bit through it.. maybe theres a bit of flashing or over molding in there.
if that's the problem, but after reading your post again, I see that it might be the carbon plates...
the speedx is nice and quick, but for a new kit, Mikado would have to fix the problem first.
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Old 03-14-2019, 10:51 AM   #39 (permalink)
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The two side plate design is a pretty good design used all the way up to the 690. It works well, is easy to assemble, maintain and cheap to repair if needed.

I can only imagine some part might incorrectly made.
You'll get it. This isn't normal.

I hope you don't get the messed up thrust bearings that some people have and end with terrible tail wag.
You'll really throw the towel in.

But I promise, owning 6 Mikado helis this is not the norm. They are great and trouble free helis.
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Old 03-14-2019, 11:10 AM   #40 (permalink)
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The two side plate design is a pretty good design used all the way up to the 690. It works well, is easy to assemble, maintain and cheap to repair if needed.

I can only imagine some part might incorrectly made.
You'll get it. This isn't normal.

I hope you don't get the messed up thrust bearings that some people have and end with terrible tail wag.
You'll really throw the towel in.

But I promise, owning 6 Mikado helis this is not the norm. They are great and trouble free helis.
I've never needed to take my L600 apart as it's been issue free so this is my first experience with interacting with a Logo. I LOVE my L600 which is why I wanted the 480.

Just spoke with my dealer and he's got my back, (HeliHangar.ca - been great to deal with), so once I get new carbon sides for the tail, I may re-evaluate my comment about design and stand down. I'm hoping that's the case.

As for a tail wag, I sure hope not. Been there on my Protos 500 awhile back and it's no fun figuring that stuff out.

What's the deal with the thrust bearings? Inserting them opposite from how the manual states or something different?
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