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Old 04-10-2019, 08:27 AM   #41 (permalink)
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I leveled up the swash. I had a drift on hover so tightened the other side and done. I didn’t check blade tracking and I have no idea how to measure in degrees the pitch of such a small heli. I just have it as default. The spindle IS important to Loctite though. I think Horizon Hobby is missing that black goo that is present on the CPS.


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Old 04-11-2019, 02:57 PM   #42 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toadiscoil View Post
I didn’t check blade tracking
Most micro helis have a fixed rotor head linkage set.
If the feathering shaft is ok, blade tracking should be theoretically OK too.

Unfortunately this is not the case for my XK K110.
Maybe it is the main blade holder set, who knows...


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Originally Posted by toadiscoil View Post
and I have no idea how to measure in degrees the pitch of such a small heli. I just have it as default.
I did the same on my NanoCPX before.
AFAICR I was not not on 100% travel for max/min pitch.

Basically you measure the blade length a, and the distance b between the two blades and then you will get the degree pitch from the calculated algorithm table.

German description and illustration picture: https://www.heli-planet.com/pitchrechner.html

Sometimes you find other people posting their b mm distance between the blades and suggestions like 30-35mm, 40mm, not more than ~45mm.
This is how I did it first on the K110 and it worked out of the box (even with inverted flight) without too much bogging down the motor.

Just make sure that you are not on very high positive/negative pitch values to avoid bogging down the motor.
Not sure if there will be much difference between 11, 12 and 13 degree.
I think I went with 11 degree pitch in 2012/2013.

Brushed motors do not have too much power.
At least the Nano motor is not simply turning off when you do rescue pitch rescue maneuvers over the ground like the MCPX V1/V2 :-)
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Old 04-11-2019, 08:35 PM   #43 (permalink)
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A few thoughts from an intermediate pilot based on my two weeks with the S2:
1) I had the dreaded “blurry tail fin” OOTB, which indicated a rotor imbalance. Changed the main blades to the spares and it was gone. Was going to try a small piece of cellophane tape next, but haven’t wrecked the spare blades yet!
2) As noted by many, the feathering spindle nut was too loose. Added some Loctite blue. Problem solved. It’s easy to look in the blade grip opening pre-flight to ensure you have some exposed threads protruding through the nut. Good habit to get into!
3) IMHO normal, flight mode zero, Z-mode or whatever you call it is not only useless, but can be dangerous. Too little control for me and switching to other modes in mid-air in a tight space should not be done, since pitch/throttle jumps suddenly
4) I really like the simple procedure for a trim flight, but I can’t seem to dial out a right drift. I can be in a stable hover in stunt mode, switch to self-leveling mode 1 and it suddenly drifts off to the right every time. Not a huge deal since I can easily hold some left aileron in a hover and I mostly prefer stunt mode anyway. Have tried trim flights in both normal and mode 1.
5) The flight controller is way superior to the ones in my two old nCPX’s! Only a very little bit of tail wag in a slow left turn when entering the maneuver. It seems very sensitive to tightness of the blade grips screws. They need to be evenly tightened and just a hair tighter than what allows the blades to fall holding the copter on it’s side. The older models felt like I was constantly fighting just to make them stay on course. This control algorithm and/or hardware is clearly improved!
6) It doesn’t seem to care whether I use 25C or 45C batteries, but I’m also not doing anything really taxing like piro-flips or hurricanes.
7) The throttle curve in Mode 1 produced a hover/slow-flight head speed that was too slow for me, so I changed it to 0/33/60/82/100. Subtle increase, but I like it better.
8) I’ve had the swash separate on me twice in crashes, but I’m pretty sure it saved other parts of the rotor head. I just used two tweezers to press it back together without having to tear down the head. Easy to do and it flew exactly the same afterward, both times. May not upgrade until I quit crashing as much!
9) Overall, the most enjoyable micro I’ve flown yet!
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Old 04-12-2019, 06:21 AM   #44 (permalink)
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I just found a swash leveling tool for nano s2:



https://www.rakonheli.com/collection...19882811031606
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Old 04-12-2019, 09:24 AM   #45 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by [email protected] View Post
I just found a swash leveling tool for nano s2:



https://www.rakonheli.com/collection...19882811031606
I have one, more trouble than it's worth, my eyeball seems to work just as good on this tiny micro.
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Old 04-12-2019, 10:36 AM   #46 (permalink)
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Great review Ric. Thank you!
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Old 04-12-2019, 08:28 PM   #47 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Great review Ric. Thank you!
No problem. I’ve learned so much from this forum over the years, so it’s always good to give back whenever I can. I also should have mentioned that I did level the swash before flying with a few turns on two of the three servo rod ends.
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Old 04-12-2019, 11:40 PM   #48 (permalink)
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What's the diff bt throttle cut and throttle hold?

Nano cp s also has this issue that if not adding the -130 throttle cut, the tail rotor will spin even throttle hold is applied.


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Old 04-13-2019, 01:06 AM   #49 (permalink)
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Throttle hold is a flight mode. It has a pitch curve & throttle curve. You cannot be in hold mode and idle up mode at the same time. (At least on my Spektrum TX). With throttle hold engaged, electric motor does not spin. On gas or nitro models, the head does not spin but the motor is running. I think that’s right...

Throttle cut is just a throttle value that is sent. You can be in idle up 1 (using its pitch curve) and be in throttle cut at the same time. The idea of throttle cut on a gas or nitro model is that the motor itself stops running; you’d need to restart it. On an electric heli, the idea is it just stops the motor from spinning, which is essentially the same as throttle hold.

On electric helis, you could use one of these for auto rotations (to enable fast spool up) and another for normal motor stop (soft spool up).
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Old 05-07-2019, 06:31 PM   #50 (permalink)
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Thanks drparker151 this thread was very helpful.
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Old 06-03-2019, 12:23 PM   #51 (permalink)
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Default Tips for new Nano or Nano S2 owners.

If anyone else has found that lowering their collective pitch endpoints in their transmitter is a good thing, consider also lowering your aileron and elevator endpoints. Doing so can prevent too much roll that alone can bog the motor down. But then you might want to adjust your Expo a bit afterward... from the stock 0 % to something like -10% or -15%. This will still allow sensitivity in the center of the cyclic stick since adjusting your roll endpoints will affect that.


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Last edited by xoexoe; 06-03-2019 at 12:47 PM..
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Old 10-23-2019, 03:15 PM   #52 (permalink)
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Default Drift calibration not working right

I've tried the drift calibration several times. It made the drift worse, if anything. The indicator lights came on as stated in the manual. Completing the process just didn't improve the drift.

Has anybody experienced this and knows what might be happening?
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Old 10-23-2019, 03:58 PM   #53 (permalink)
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I spent countless hours in frustration trying to get my Blade 230 S v1 to fly properly with SAFE. I had many crashes before that same thing on a Blade 200 SRX. After some recommendations from pilots here I started to use the 230 on IU2, complete 3D mode. I loved it. If I could afford it I would probably buy a 230S v2 just for fun that was a great fun heli super cheap to crash. Sadly all my hobby money goes to my big helicopter crash bills

So basically my lesson learned is that giving up on SAFE makes for a much more enjoyable experience on Blade helis overall and forces you to learn regular CP flight, which is a good thing. I really liked my Nano S2 even after many crashes and frame changes. But after a while I just let it rest on my shelf as I started to go out and fly the big ones It was a fun little heli but I don't know if I will go through the hassle of repairing it. There is something about Blade micros though I really want an mCPx BL v2 and a 150S which I hear are both excellent helis (again plain CP flight, no SAFE).

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Originally Posted by asolof View Post
I've tried the drift calibration several times. It made the drift worse, if anything. The indicator lights came on as stated in the manual. Completing the process just didn't improve the drift.

Has anybody experienced this and knows what might be happening?
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Old 10-24-2019, 05:40 AM   #54 (permalink)
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I just spent the last year learning to fly for the first time it seemed like. Even though I had spent the previous two years with a Blade MSR S ... I was flying it in safe mode which taught me nothing other than which way the helicopter goes when you move a stick in that direction.


As soon as you take it off safe mode, you'll find that it flies so different that the way it flew with safe mode on did not help you at all to learn anything. I recommend not messing around with safe mode. Instead, The best thing to do is get simulator (AccuRC is great) and learn to hover in all orientations. Then take your nano s2 and in full 3d mode practice hovering in all orientations. You can ignore inverted flight at first. After you can hover reliably, you'll find yourself starting to fly circuits and such which is when the fun starts... Anyways - thats how it went for me.


You'll want to move on to a 230s v2 (or similar) ASAP tho after you've learned to hover as nano s2 flies so differently from larger helicopters that it doesn't really help with learning to fly such (at least it didn't for me). Its way to snappy and snaps back to level to quickly which makes it hard to fly anything but hovering.


BTW - even in safe mode, a helicopter will not sit still while hovering. It will wander around ... possibly alot if the swash is not quite level.
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Old 10-24-2019, 08:35 AM   #55 (permalink)
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So, any changes/corrections made by drift calibration in "Normal/Safe" Mode doesn't affect Stunt2 flight?
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Old 10-24-2019, 09:10 AM   #56 (permalink)
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not that i'm aware of - it does affect rescue, however, i'm pretty sure.
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Old 10-24-2019, 09:32 AM   #57 (permalink)
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Correct. Although I would probably go through this entire thread. On the Nano S2 it is common for the feathering/spindle shaft to be loose as apparently Horizon Hobby didn't use the "goop" they used on the previous model. Just do a quick check on the whole heli and ensure everything is nice and level.

Then take it to IU2 and let it rip

fiddle's comments on the simulator are spot on as well.

Quote:
Originally Posted by asolof View Post
So, any changes/corrections made by drift calibration in "Normal/Safe" Mode doesn't affect Stunt2 flight?
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Old 10-24-2019, 12:39 PM   #58 (permalink)
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Personally, I was just checking out the safe mode to see how it behaved with it.

Like you recommend, I fly it in stunt 2. I wanted to know how to adjust/tune it. My 450 size FBL helicopters I adjust mechanically, then with the FBL software. I don't see any FBL software ways to adjust this.

When I saw the section on "trimming", I was hoping that would fine-tune Stunt 2 as well.

So other than adjusting blade tightness and servo rod lengths, there are no other adjustments, correct?
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Old 10-24-2019, 01:04 PM   #59 (permalink)
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That is correct. The FBL is a blackbox that can't be changed other than the various gains as listed in the manual (actually - i don't remember if the nano s2 has these or not, but other blade products do..)


If a blade products swash and so forth isn't setup well, then it will fly terrible as the FBL is seemingly tuned for a well setup helicopter.
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