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Mikado V-BAR Mikado V-Stabi/V-BAR Flybarless System Software and Hardware Support


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Old 04-28-2019, 06:56 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Mikado u/I current sensor issues...

Just switched to vbar on my Goblin 380 and 570. Using hobbywing ESCs on both so I got the current sensor. Desoldered the supplied leads and inserted it into the lead off the ESC.

Goblin 380 is perfect. Within a couple percent of accurate to what I put back in the packs.

Goblin 570 not so much. It works perfect if I'm just sputtering around but if I run up to 2600rpm and do some maneuvers with high collective transition, it resets the current mah used. From playing with it, it seems if info over 100A spike (12s power), the mah counter resets and starts over.

If I'm ultra smooth, itll run down just fine and be accurate. I doubt it's any huge current sag off the bec because the vbar itself never loses connection. Ut maybe internally? I mean. All4 servos are probably pulling an instantaneous high current.

Hobbywing 130v4 esc.

Thoughts?
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Old 04-28-2019, 09:52 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Check the fragile telemetry cable, it will only reset if it looses the telemetry info.
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Old 04-28-2019, 09:52 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Which vbar?
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Old 04-28-2019, 10:08 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Neo vlink pro.

I'll try a different cable and see what happens. It just seems like it's the 100a mark that does it.
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Old 04-29-2019, 12:31 AM   #5 (permalink)
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The UI can report more than 200A, so the 100A you experience is not the problem. The telemetry wire and plugs can shift during high collective (amp) moves and hence the reset.

Route the telemetry wire properly away from any BEC/throttle wires and support it at both ends.
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Old 04-29-2019, 09:24 PM   #6 (permalink)
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If you still have issues after replacing the signal wire. Try routing the signal wire from current sensor away from ESC and motor as much as possible. Even route the signal on side of carbon away from ESC to "shield" it somewhat if you can.



Have seen kontronic kosmic's ESC's cause the current sensor to reset repeatedly at high amps. I run telme on my kontronic's now because of this.
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Old 05-28-2019, 09:55 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Ok. I just cant get it to work perfectly. Moved wire completely outside of frame, still did it. Wrapped foil around wire near power lead, still did it. Right now I replaced the straight ribbon wire with twisted (long spektrum sat cable). Still did it. Added an emi choke to the cable. Still did it. It only happens on extreme current draw like if I'm driving down fast inverted and gently stop the fall so governor begins to freewheel then stand it up and pop hard negative pitch. If I'm really gentle on collective it doesnt do it (but then I cant have fun making the bad boy bark!). All the changes I've made seemed to have some varying degree of improvement but it's really hard to say. First packs of day go fine but either me or the batteries getting warmed up on the second time around are pulling more current.
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Old 05-28-2019, 10:23 PM   #8 (permalink)
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This may or may not be the cause of your trouble.

I've read in the past about some that desoldered the main leads and when resoldering them (or other leads), they did not do as good a job as the factory and they had issues similar to yours.

Again, may or may not be your issue but if you can't find a cause, this might be it.
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Old 05-29-2019, 06:59 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Its possible I suppose but I'm not running into any heat or power issues. (I did desolder the leads to attach to esc)
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Old 06-12-2019, 09:10 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Hi,

with Kontronik Kosmik we had reports where flipping the U/I sensor on top of the ESC (cooling fins) did the trick. Maybe (and maybe especially in auto mode, or with the extra high frequencies K's are supposed to operate), an ESC can create and radiate frequencies which affect the electronics on the sensor.
On top, with a considerable chunk of metal in between, it's maybe protected just enough.
No hard evidence, but as good as any explanation

Everything you tried didn't help with K's either, but the flip-trick did, and for a couple of copycats, too :-)

Cheers

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Old 06-16-2019, 12:21 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Got tired of trying. Best peak reading I could get was 120a on 12s. Which almost never happens unless I'm trying for it but just knowing it could reset ticked me off. Switched to scorpion esc to get integrated telemetry. Not worth smoking a battery thinking i have time left or constantly cutting flights short to be sure. Or the time tinkering for that matter
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Old Yesterday, 04:22 AM   #12 (permalink)
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A club member has a HobbyWing 100A V3 with U/I sensor on a Logo 550. The leads from the ESC to the U/I are about 35mm long as I shortened them and soldered the two devices with no connectors.

All of the small wires for throttle, rpm and telemetry run together down the side of the frame.

He has not had any problems but there again he is no stick banger. He lands on the announcements and his LiPo checker confirms pack capacity.

His setup doesn't appear to be affecting the U/I sensor.

His setup is using Futaba BLS451 servos and MKS BLS980 tail servo.
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Old Yesterday, 07:22 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Sounds to me like maybe OP got a bad unit.
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