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Old 05-16-2019, 05:56 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default My slow 600SE build...

Once I started in on the assembly, I realized I hadn't removed the Jive from my Chronos yet. So, went to do so, and realized my throttle cables were crazy long for that bird. I am thinking of ditching the ferrite ring this time and just running straight BEC and signal leads. I don't expect it will be a problem. But, still, I hope to make for a clean wiring job. My 600SX turned out pretty clean, but there were a couple of details I'd like to tweak this time. Right now, I am debating on shortening the servo leads. I've not done this before on a build. I've made crimped connectors for throttle cables, but am hesitant to cut the servo leads. I got out my Hansen crimper kit last night to make a test crimp and realized how lousy my vision is... But, I still plan to shorten them so the routing isn't cluttered. I will make a few practice crimps on some spare servo wiring to refresh my technique before cutting those servo leads. I plan to try using a pair of magnifying glasses we have.

Last weekend, I went to drill and tap for a ground on the motor mount plate and broke off the tap...I am out of practice...
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Old 05-16-2019, 06:22 AM   #2 (permalink)
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for a place to ground, I use one of the 3 screws on the bearing support housing. the shroud thing around the pinion..
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Old 05-16-2019, 10:58 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Thanks Tony. I've seen a couple of grounds to the CB support like you described. I drilled and tapped an M3 hole on the other side of the mount. The lead will be very hidden once it's installed.
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Old 05-16-2019, 12:16 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Cool. Just make sure you have continuity when your done from tail to motor.
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Old 05-16-2019, 03:07 PM   #5 (permalink)
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You bet. Have had many belt tails. My 600SX was a ground from motor mount through the frame back to the boom clamp. Then, I had to remove the finish on the tube to get the Spedix tail to make the final continuity. I am building mostly a stock tail here, but with the alum tail clamp. I am hoping it may not need another tail wire, but the meter will tell the tale.

My question is if anyone is shortening servo leads anymore? I have some 12" throttle cables for the Jive back to the FBL unit. About perfect length. But the swash servos create a real pile of wire if not shortened...
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Old 05-16-2019, 05:44 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I just fold them up and hide them.. when you shorten them up, that makes them dedicated to that heli.. fine if they stay there, but if you go to sell them, they might not be long enough for someone else. my .02
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Old 05-17-2019, 05:43 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Thanks for mentioning that Tony. Perhaps the best reason NOT to shorten them. I folded and bound the leads in my 600SX. These old BLS253's wouldn't likely fetch much in today's market of HV CNC cased servos. But, when I had them in my Chronos, they were terrific.

I had an old S9151 which I shortened last night to prove to myself if I could do it. Had some really cool magnified lens goggles with an led light which made it easier to see. I'll decide this weekend for sure.

Am beginning to think I might have been better off buying a V3 kit. I thought it would be sort of cool to build out the original version with the red canopy and such. Now considering it, it seems so "plain" compared to the newer canopies and colored tails. I keep telling myself to build it as it is and enjoy it for what it is.
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Old 05-17-2019, 10:34 AM   #8 (permalink)
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That 'Classic Red SE is my all time fav Logo lid.
If you don't use it leeme know, I'll take it off your hands and build myself a 600SE around it.
Wish I kept my ole SE


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Old 05-17-2019, 10:41 AM   #9 (permalink)
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The new canopies one thats classic! Nah. I'd love that classic anytime.

You can paint the fin if you so choose.
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Old 05-17-2019, 11:21 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Rob I build my Logos the same. Run the ground cables through the chassis, then drill and tap the back side of the motor mount so the connection is out of site. Then cut the servo leads and re-crimp pins so there is no excess of wires hanging all over. I find a nice clean heli is so much more pleasing to look at everyday you have it out to fly, it adds to the enjoyment. Good luck finishing it up
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Old 05-18-2019, 05:29 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Thanks, guys! I shortened the cyclic servo leads last night. I was amazed how well it went. I viewed Hansen Hobbies YT video on the details of the crimp and it helped me a lot. I didn't think the crimpers would make the crimps on the wire and on the insulation in one action...but it certainly does. I fetched a 12" long 1/4" drill bit to make the holes in the right side frame to allow the ESC and ground cable pass through. Not much to show for pics yet, but am now pretty much ready to join the frames. Then, I can show the wiring.


Great to hear from you Gimpy! Your bird looked great! I was thinking I might get some Monokote Trim sheets of similar color to the canopy for making the fins similar. Saw this look on Kyle's factory bird from back in 2010. Was a sublte detail but made the tail show a bit better. Of course, nothing wrong with the look of Mikado's nicely finished carbon plate. Looks a cut above the similar carbon from other brands. No burs and some nice clear coat.
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Old 05-18-2019, 08:32 PM   #12 (permalink)
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I did add some vinyl to the boom at one time...


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Old 05-19-2019, 08:41 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Thinking back....to my first helicopter fun fly event, it was near Mt. Pleasant, MI. Was I think May of 2011. I recalled seeing my first Logo heli. I now know it was an SE. I didn't know any of the specific Logo models at that time. Had the red canopy and such. He had it on Thunder Power 10S packs. I recalling seeing how sweet it looked in the air when he was flying a tail first inverted herricane. I didn't think I'd ever master that manuever. But, I knew I wanted to learn more about that machine!
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Old 05-19-2019, 03:20 PM   #14 (permalink)
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I know these are dark, so sorry for that...It doesn't look very clean right now with the servo leads awry, but they will be seated in their properly positions pretty soon!

I have since fitted the tail assembly including the boom, supports and control rod. Just hope the tail rod works out to be correct. I didn't really see how precisely long to make it...that is, how much threaded rod to insert into the carbon tube.
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Old 05-19-2019, 05:26 PM   #15 (permalink)
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those are the older style frames..
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Old 05-19-2019, 05:57 PM   #16 (permalink)
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This is an original V1 600SE kit. Everything is older style in this model. Even the instruction manual, though is still the nice large format type, lacked a number of details and has some technical errors. My build will feature
  • 690 SX main grips
  • Newer tail rotor assembly
  • current counterbearing assembly with new main shaft
  • Spedix carbon battery tray
  • Alum tail clamp
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Old 05-19-2019, 06:14 PM   #17 (permalink)
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I would have popped for the v2 frames.. they have their own tray system. but hey, its still gonna be nice.
I wonder if the newer style 690 owb will fit.
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Old 05-19-2019, 09:51 PM   #18 (permalink)
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I briefly looked into the OWB thing, but it's not straight-forward. Several implications to deal with since it alters the stack height of the drive elements. It's do-able, but isn't inexpesive. Couple of guys on here have commented on having done that. I'm not going to be able to fly very hard anymore due to some vision loss I've experienced. So casual smooth 3d is probably my limit. If I find it won't hold up, I'll revisit the topic...

Thought about the frames and such too. And the nifty new tray system...I'll do that if a have to replace them due to crash damage.
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Old 05-20-2019, 07:18 AM   #19 (permalink)
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I see no advantage to the V2 frames otherthan the marginal increase in height for LiPo fit.
With the V1 style a small square of hook/loop at the front of the chassis to mate to your pack and either 2 straps for a stick or 3 for split packs and you're off.


Loosen but don't remove each strap, slip out pack and in new one. Cinch up straps and go fly.

Much quicker than fiddling with trays if you don't have dedicated packs for the machine.


Even if I had a V2 I'd treat it as a V1 and just leave tray latched in place and run straps around bottom of chassis and up over packs. slip in, slip out.


Of course all of this just my opinion in my experience with Logo chassis since 2008.
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Old 05-20-2019, 07:24 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob43 View Post
I briefly looked into the OWB thing, but it's not straight-forward. Several implications to deal with since it alters the stack height of the drive elements. It's do-able, but isn't inexpesive. Couple of guys on here have commented on having done that. I'm not going to be able to fly very hard anymore due to some vision loss I've experienced. So casual smooth 3d is probably my limit. If I find it won't hold up, I'll revisit the topic...

Thought about the frames and such too. And the nifty new tray system...I'll do that if a have to replace them due to crash damage.

For 600SE and you're intended flying you'll be ok. Keep the biggest pinion on you can and be careful with gear mesh.



To swap to 690SX OWB you'd also need to swap to it's front and rear Pulleys as well as belt. And then you can use the 690 specific Counter Bearing. IMO not needed.


If I revisit 600SE I think it'll be on 6S and not even plan to run the Counter Bearing. At low weight 1000-1200 is all is needed on this platform to fly some nice smooth 3D. Now with VTX will be even better than I remember.
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