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Old 05-21-2019, 08:49 AM   #21 (permalink)
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I'll post up a couple of pics later this evening to share my progress. I was able to complete a good deal of assembly last two evenings.

With the mix/match of older version and new version items (for example, new main shaft, counterbearing assembly, older head yoke, and links), I am not yet sure it's going to work as-is, but it's close.

The swash is 10mm above the mast collar. I saw this was common in the original setup, so perhaps it's good. Visually, it doesn't look like enough room for full range of cyclic with full negative collective. But, will see once I run through Ikon setup.

Another concern I had was the length of tail control rod. Instructions weren't definative about how long to make it, when epoxying the threaded rods into the ends of the carbon control rod tube. I screwed in the threaded rods into the links fully, and then inserted them into the carbon tube with nearly zero threads remaining exposed. As it is, I have it adjusted as short as I can get it to see a mechanically proper setup with servo horn, and tail control level. I think when the belt stretches just a wee bit, it will be fine and have some additional length adjustment capacity. When I assembled the control rod, I was concerned about having enough strength of bond to hold the torque of threading the links on/off. So, I went for maximum insertion depth...
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Old 05-21-2019, 10:49 AM   #22 (permalink)
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You canít build the rod without the tail belt installed and at tension, with the tail servo installed and centered in the fbl setup.. THEN you can see what you need for building it correctly.. you canít just screw it together and call it good... I hope you at least left one end unbuilt.
Once itís done correctly, itís rare to have to adjust it more than a turn or two.. if ever. At least thatís my experience.
Hope that helps.
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Old 05-21-2019, 02:02 PM   #23 (permalink)
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It's built. LOL. I didn't get that out of the instructions... Hahha. But, it seems like it may be fine. It's only 12$ if I need to remake one. I bet if I had done so, I'd have had to cut a few mm from the carbon rod to allow shorter.
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Old 05-21-2019, 02:36 PM   #24 (permalink)
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nobody reads instructions anymore.. their only a guide line anyway.
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Old 05-22-2019, 08:05 AM   #25 (permalink)
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If you get wonky endpoints rotate servo horn one tooth towards front of machine and adjust rod length to get equal throws.


I don't know about ikon but VB you can't center trim servo anyways so rod length isn't set in stone.
Logo tail is pretty forgiving to even a poor setup, just works.
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Old 05-22-2019, 10:26 AM   #26 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GimpyGolden View Post
If you get wonky endpoints rotate servo horn one tooth towards front of machine and adjust rod length to get equal throws.


I don't know about ikon but VB you can't center trim servo anyways so rod length isn't set in stone.
Logo tail is pretty forgiving to even a poor setup, just works.
Yea, Iím using vbc so after the rod is build and endpoints are set, thatís where the tail optimizer and trim flight come into play.
If that stuff doesnít get ya a good tail, something else is wrong with the setup.
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Old 05-22-2019, 10:31 AM   #27 (permalink)
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After Tony's tip on building the rod after all else, I realized on my 600SX, since I bought it pre-owned, the rod had been built already...didn't catch on to that until Tony mentioned. I did find in making mine up that the newer Gorilla Epoxy with metal is pretty darned strong. I was too tired last night to tinker on the bird or post pics. Will try tonight.
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Old 05-22-2019, 10:49 AM   #28 (permalink)
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If both ends are built, itís real east to shorten or lengthen them with just a ferrule.. just cut the rod somewhere where the sleeve wonít be in the way.
I get them at Loweís or Home Depot in the hillman binds. Their cheap and once their glued are bullit proof. Keeps you from buying new tail rods all the time.
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Old 05-22-2019, 05:36 PM   #29 (permalink)
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Thanks for the suggestion.
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Old 05-24-2019, 07:46 PM   #30 (permalink)
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Current progress (sorry for the crappy quality) pics. Had to order some motor bullets and a new soldering iron. My superb Weller WES50 was dead to the world when I fired it up last weekend. Minimum repair fee is $60, so I ordered a newer tech TS100 type iron for about the same money. More wattage, and greater efficiency.
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Old 05-25-2019, 01:20 PM   #31 (permalink)
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your heli looks great, but what really matters is how good it flies, not how it looks. I'm sure you will love it.
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Old 05-25-2019, 02:57 PM   #32 (permalink)
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Are you installing your FBL unit in the front or in the back by the elevator servo? If you do it in the back, unless you shorten your servo wires (which I do, and is why I use Xpert servos with the detachable wires) you end up with a whole bunch of extra wire to find a way to take up the slack. That's the great thing about the Xperts, is that I can just get new wires if I need to change the installation. They are good about that idea, and include two sets of wire for each servo.


No relationship with Xpert except that I use and like their products. Been using them for two years now and haven't seen any issues.
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Old 05-25-2019, 04:05 PM   #33 (permalink)
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I dig those Xpert servo leads! Very cool feature.

But, alas, I am using my Futaba BLS253/251 combos. I've already shortened the leads to custom lengths
Once I place the Ikon2 back there in back, they will fall into place as they should. Also ran some shorter ESC leads to the front as well. Sort of wishing I'd gone a touch longer. For those, I purchased some 12" pre-made double male leads.

Playing around with ESC placement and motor leads at the moment. I bundled the excess ESC and motor wire under the Jive on my 600SX build. I'd rather shorten the leads this time. Think I will install the motor with pinion for the correct motor position for that. My new Pro32 TS100 soldering iron arrived today, so I'm stoked to install the bullets! Also fitted the canopy after installing the RCBooya mounts.


Discovered that I had lacked installing two additional .5mm shaft spacers called for with the addition of the counterbearing and motor support arm. Manual from 2010 called for just one above the pulley, and one between pulley and gear. Supposed to be two according to the instructions that came with the counterbearing assembly and 600SE main shaft kit. So, had that all apart. When I went to slide the drive hear and OWB back into position, one of the little roller sprags fell out! Was able to located it and get it back into the race where it belongs. I have a new in pkg OWB, but would have hated to waste a new one due to the loss of a pin.
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Old 05-25-2019, 04:11 PM   #34 (permalink)
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what swash plate is that?
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Old 05-25-2019, 05:11 PM   #35 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hilarious View Post
what swash plate is that?
I think that one is a lynx.. a goblin 500 swash drops right in too. I have one in mine.
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Old 05-25-2019, 05:26 PM   #36 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tonys-heli View Post
I think that one is a lynx.. a goblin 500 swash drops right in too. I have one in mine.
do you mean H0475-S?
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Old 05-25-2019, 06:34 PM   #37 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hilarious View Post
do you mean H0475-S?
no, that's the 3 blade version

this one

https://www.anythingheli.com/sab-new...500-sport-570/

here is the whole link..
https://www.helifreak.com/showthread...500+swashplate
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Old 05-25-2019, 09:45 PM   #38 (permalink)
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Rob, I highly recommend that you replace the one-way with the loose roller sprag. Don’t ask why ;-)
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Old 05-26-2019, 02:43 AM   #39 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tonys-heli View Post
Great suggestion. Thanks a lot.
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Old 05-26-2019, 08:13 AM   #40 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Great suggestion. Thanks a lot.
since I did my swash on the 480, lynx has made one for it. but the lynx one for the 600 is nice, but much thicker than the g500 one, and does change the geometry a little bit.
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