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150 Class Electric Helicopters 150 Class Electric Helicopters manufactured by Align, Tarot, SYMA, Airhog, Chaos, HK and similar.


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Old 05-17-2019, 09:34 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default How to replace 150X ESC .. desoldering?

I want to replace my T-REX 150Xs ESC because I think the tail ESC is busted. I bought a replacement ESC but the old one appears to be soldered in 8 places to the FBL unit. The issue is that they are straight pins that I think need to all be desoldered in order for the two units to separate... so its not like I can pull up on the board as I apply a soldering iron. I dont see how to remove them independently.

How do I do this? How can I completely remove the solder before I separate the boards?

Ive shown one of the eight pins Im talking about. Youre looking at the underside of the ESC. The pin coming from the top is from the FBL. The circled part is one of eight places I need to desolder.

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Old 05-17-2019, 10:00 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Oh, is this a job for a soldering wick?
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Old 05-18-2019, 10:45 AM   #3 (permalink)
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How can you tell the ESC is broken? My 3-year old 150 started to shut down in mid flight. I was ready to also order a new ESC.

I selectively unplugged the servos and found it was actually a bad servo causing the ESC to shut down.
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Old 05-18-2019, 04:02 PM   #4 (permalink)
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This is what Im seeing.

I put the motor at 20% so I could control it one handed. But the tail doesnt do much at 70% either.

T-REX 150X tail motor not working (1 min 8 sec)


The servos seem to behave normally, but Ill try your idea today.
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Old 05-18-2019, 04:13 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I since wisened up and removed the main blades, rotating the heli in my hand with the main motor running. Nothing from the tail.

Also unplugged all servos. Same result.
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Old 05-22-2019, 02:22 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Default How to replace 150X ESC .. desoldering?

Even with my desoldering braid, I could not get the ESC desoldered from the FBL unit. Ugh. Wont budge. I think I cant get all the solder out. No matter the amount of heat, flux, or resoldering to get fresh solder on there, its just stuck.

So now I could spend $50 to get a new FBL unit and just solder my new ESC to a new FBL no guarantee that will work as Im not the best at soldering tiny things , or I could buy a whole new 150X. Thats a whole lotta money for a silly thing.

Maybe Ill just shelve the 150X for a while. At my current skill level its a little fast for my backyard. And my field is better used for an Oxy 2 or 4.

Hmm.
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Old 05-22-2019, 06:02 AM   #7 (permalink)
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When I upgraded my 150DFC to 150X, the ESC and FBL came attached to each other as a unit.

I also had a difficulty once with the motor connectors not gripping so I soldered them on one of the 150s. Maybe the tail rotor motor connectors don't make good connection?
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Old 05-22-2019, 07:50 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Unfortunately it’s not loose motor wires. Mine too has some difficulty stating I’m, so I tried moving the motor wires around within the ESC female connectors while the main motor is spinning, but no change.
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Old 05-23-2019, 12:34 PM   #9 (permalink)
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I have replaced 3 esc's, I used diagonal cutters and cut the pins to remove the ESCs than used the soldering iron to remove the old pins. Once you cut the pins they are too short to use with a new ESC, I know as I tried that first. I have in my parts bin a length of pins from when I was messing around with Arduinos so I used those, they didn't have the same pitch but individually they worked.

I found soldering them onto FBL where old solder may be covering up the holes then soldering the new ESC onto the FBL with the new pins worked best.

Best of luck, it's a bit of a pain. I had also thought about just mounting the FBL and using some small wires and mounting hte ESC under the FBL mounting plate, where people usually mount the DSMX sat RX, but I didn't think there would be enough room once the canopy was on.
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Old 05-23-2019, 01:43 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dale_p View Post
... I had also thought about just mounting the FBL and using some small wires and mounting hte ESC under the FBL mounting plate, where people usually mount the DSMX sat RX, but I didn't think there would be enough room once the canopy was on.
I think I'd probably do something similar -- just replace the pins with wires and stack the boards with double-sided sticky pads.
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Old 05-23-2019, 01:51 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Great idea, thank you.

I may have some pins lying around from my Arduino days. If not I'll try some wires.
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Old 05-23-2019, 01:55 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Well, I hope it helps. Please note that I not yet done that to mine. I'm just saying that I wouldn't hesitate to go the wires route if my ESC has to be replaced.

I would recommend going with a wire gauge that approximates the thickness of the pins, but is still easy to work with. Maybe this is not too big of an issue, but it's one I was wondering about.
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Old 05-23-2019, 06:40 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ic-racer View Post
When I upgraded my 150DFC to 150X, the ESC and FBL came attached to each other as a unit.

I also had a difficulty once with the motor connectors not gripping so I soldered them on one of the 150s. Maybe the tail rotor motor connectors don't make good connection?
This is a drop in replacement ? Just buy the "HEG15006T 150GRSA" and then the you got an 150x ?

Also in regards to only changing the ESC, how about hotair station ? Should be able to loosen all the pins at the same time ?
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Old 06-16-2019, 01:51 AM   #14 (permalink)
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In the end I just replaced the ESC+FBL combo entirely. Sadly Im still seeing the same odd behavior from the tail. As the video I posted above shows, the tail spins a tiny bit when I first disengage throttle hold, it then there is nothing from it at all.

Gotta be the tail motor or the connection, right? No other explanation I can think of since the ESC and FBL are new. But the tail motor and wires are also new! No flights on them!

Hmmmmmm.
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Old 06-16-2019, 02:09 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Default How to replace 150X ESC .. desoldering?

Ah ha!!

Anyone willing to double check something for me?

I got my multimeter out to see if there was a short somewhere. I am getting continuity on my tail motor between the red and blue wires. No continuity between the other two pairs.

That shouldnt be, right? Could anyone double check their working 150X to see if they do or do not get continuity between these two?

Im thinking this means the new tail motor I bought was defective. The worst part is that it would imply the new ESC and the new ESC+FBL combo were both unnecessary purchases. Bah $100.

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Old 06-16-2019, 10:02 AM   #16 (permalink)
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I measure continuity between all three wires, on a brand new motor. Maybe you have a break in there somewhere, causing your problem?
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Old 06-16-2019, 10:51 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Default How to replace 150X ESC .. desoldering?

That makes sense too. Sort of the opposite of the problem I expected.

Thank you for checking.
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Old 06-16-2019, 11:03 AM   #18 (permalink)
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Default How to replace 150X ESC .. desoldering?

Guess I never really looked at how these motors are wired. Yes, Probably my black wire is not connected internally.

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Old 06-16-2019, 01:26 PM   #19 (permalink)
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That's what I was thinking. Seems like only 2/3 of your motor circuits are working. Hence the intermediate sputtering.
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Old 06-16-2019, 01:29 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Now check whether there's continuity between the black wire and the motor case. Also, aren't all three wires connected together at the back of the motor? Thinking of possible solutions...
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