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|07-21-2019, 01:47 PM||#1 (permalink)|
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: KC MO
Quick Guide: JST-PH Battery Connector and Better LiPos
It's fairly well known that the stock 1mm pitch JST-SH connector on the Nano is way too small. Officially, they are only rated to 1A, and have a very high resistance. They have significant voltage drop, and really just can't handle the kind of power that the heli pulls, even as small as it is. These helis can pull 5-7A in hard flying... way more than that connector was made for. With hard flying, I was easily able to notice the stock connector getting hot from the current and high resistance.
There is a solution: JST-PH connectors.
They aren't perfect... they are rated for 2A, which is still not as much as the heli can pull. BUT: They're lightweight, which is absolutely crucial on a heli this small. Because there is airflow from being flown around, they are much better able to handle the 5-7A being pulled through them, even though they're only technically rated to 2A. They also have a lower contact resistance (around 10-20mOhm - half that of the JST-SH connectors at 20-40mOhm), which again helps them handle the high current we're pulling.
To upgrade to the bigger connector you have two options: Buy a JST-PH pigtail and solder it on, or make your own pigtail.
You can buy them at several places. Here's a great source:
Just make sure you buy one with silicone wire. The PVC wired ones available on eBay and Amazon are terrible for the application. They're not nearly flexible enough, the wires will fatigue and break off very quickly after connecting and disconnecting the battery several times.
Ideally, you want at least 24AWG wire, and 22AWG is even better.
If you want to make one, all you have to do is buy some JST-PH connectors from Amazon or eBay or DigiKey or similar. They're standardized, so as long as you make sure you're buying JST-PH connectors, you'll get the right one. The best ones to get when making your own are the standard male headers:
And not these ones:
You'll need heat shrink (around 1.5-2mm) and a small soldering iron tip. Be extremely careful when soldering because the plastic will melt if the pins get too hot.
I've done this on every Nano I've had to date. With the first Nano, I went as far as taking the batteries apart and soldering JST-PH connectors on because pre-made batteries with PH connectors weren't available back then. It is 100% worth the effort.
Back in the Nano CPX days, there were very few options for batteries - MiniAviation were regarded as the best for the most part, and they were expensive and only available from the UK. That's all there really was. Thanks to the TinyWhoop revolution a couple years ago, we now have a LOT more options for batteries. Tons and tons of them.
This mod is not just for use with HV LiPos. Even if you only plan on using standard LiPo 4.20V, there is a significant increase in power and even flight time with NO changes other than going with the PH connectors.
That said, HV LiPos are definitely a good thing to do. They will give you extra performance on top of what the PH connectors give you, and some added flight time to boot.
Fair warning: The Nano S2 specifically seems to have a problem with HV LiPos and you might at some point start having in-flight shutdowns. If that happens, read here - it's a pretty simple fix.
This mod is also useful for if you decide to upgrade your main motor to a better one. Brushless IMO is a waste of time and money, but there are better coreless motors out there that do offer better performance and flight count than the stock one. However, the stock connector will bottleneck the crap out of the motor, and you will likely not see much if any improvement out of a better motor without upgrading the battery connector too. Read here:
If you decide to go with HV LiPo, here's some info:
As previously mentioned, the TinyWhoop revolution brought about many options for motors and batteries for the Nano. Not only are there now HV LiPos but most of them come with the PH connectors already installed!
The Nano S2 comes with a 150mAh battery stock, which is fine, but I fly mine with 260mAh HV batteries. More flight time and very little added weight (this is the ONLY source of added weight that I approve of ).
My battery recommendations:
I want to reiterate - this mod is not just for HV LiPo use. It's also not only good for hard flying... even if all you do is hover or circuits, you WILL benefit. More power, more flight time. Your connectors will last longer before wearing out (this happens no matter what connectors you use simply because these connectors are not made to be cycled very many times) and you will have more options for batteries overall because most good batteries these days come with PH connectors.
For charging, I like these parallel boards:
Keith - MSH Brain2 Beta Team
Raptor E700 RMJ Nitro | Synergy N556 | LOGO 480 XXtreme | T-REX 470LP
For FrSky help visit my thread: https://tinyurl.com/y3b3vu3k
https://kc3dprint.com - 3D Printing on Demand and 3D Printed RC Helicopter Upgrades
|07-22-2019, 05:20 AM||#2 (permalink)|
Join Date: Feb 2019
great writeup! On chargers, here is another option: https://www.horizonhobby.com/spektru...rger-spmxc1060
Blade Scout CX, MSR S, Nano S2, 230s V2, 360CFX