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|04-20-2020, 06:27 AM||#1 (permalink)|
Join Date: Apr 2020
leveling heli in all modes and equalizing pitch in stunt 2 and panic. stock tx only
If you do not read this over 2 times you will get mad when trying to smooth out this sweet little heli. that being said, let's proceed.
works for nano cps and nano s2 for sure. nano cpx try it by all means. Let me know how it goes.
have all your batteries charged, unless your like me and have 24 of them. in which case you know 4 minutes just isn't a long time.
1- static leveling preparation. (if level browse your way to 3 as
normal) critique my work i like it this is fun
if you have a leveler good for you, if not don't worry about it.
-power on just the helicopter. This will put your heli in bind
mode. after blue led flashes and swash moves to middle
unplug your battery. This centers all swash servos
-be careful not to move servo horn by rotating servo gear as
this will defeat the purpose of static leveling preparation.
-note stock ball links are one sided do not force your ball links
at any time as breakage can and will occure.
2- static leveling with a leveler (no leveler see 2.1)
-remember your leveler? if you wanna use it remove your
main rotor hub from from main shaftAFTERdisconnecting rotor
head linkage set.
-place your leveler over main shaft and let it rest on your
servo pushrod ball links.
-look for gaps, remove leveler
-move ball links by carefully getting behind one link with your
fingernail or ball-link pliers and clicking it off the swash
plate. turning them (ccw-up cw-down) to take away the
gap on all three links while the leveler is resting. .
-repeat last three instructions until level.
-reassemble your heli
2.1 static leveling for the rest of us
-your servos are at 0 pitch position
-that doesn't mean the same for your blades. you must
-fold blades to one side until parallel to each other as seen
from the top.
-blade tips should be even with each other as seen from the
side around all 360 degrees of rotation.
-be sure to check this while heli is upside-down "inverted"
they should droop the same for normal and inverted
3 dynamic leveling all modes and panic
-power on tx then heli as normal
-with collective (pitch) at botum of throw pull panic trigger
and flip mode switch to top stunt 2 motor will not
-move collective to mid pitch and let heli spool
-watch your swash at first it should be stabilized at level
you don't want a surprise
-put the heli into a hover, if you are compensating with
cyclic, trim with buttons as necessary this means
land first move trim then fly.
-now you are flying a mechanically zeroed transmitter
corrected setup. you must get the heli software
inline i'm going to include an example along with
instructions from here on out.
-let's say your helicopter is still in stunt2 with panic on
and maintaining a hover in a small area with little or
no input and you are 9 "beeps" of trim elevator back
and 3 "beeps of trim aileron left
-let go of panic for about 2 seconds and the heli moves
right by a small margin only
-after powering off you would move your front links up
by 1.5 turns, back links down by 1.5 turns and zero
elevator trim. but how you say stock ball links only
have whole turns. i have a countersink bit 1/8th inch
shank. and i turn it by hand to open up other side.
if i didn't have that bit i would put 2 up front and
1 down back. it still measures 1 turn for 3 beeps.
-back in the air stunt 2 panic
-release panic still goes right by small amount
-left link down .5 turn, right up .5 turn, trim same
-flying in stunt 2 panic on, it's wandering to the left in
about as much as it did to the right when panic was
released before. release panic it's holding one spot.
-move trim 6 beeps to the right for a trim setting of
right 3 fly calibration mode and zero trim. power off
both heli and tx
I do believe i have it right
|04-20-2020, 07:08 AM||#2 (permalink)|
Join Date: Apr 2020
pitch check and adjust (i needed a break)
provided you have leveled your swash dynamic wise and pitch is not at 0
-pitch is too high -increase rod length on all ball links by 1 or 2 at most per 9 inch off the ground calibration flight turn heli and tx off. return links down to where they were.
pitch still high -increase rod length by 3 to 4 turns on all links fly a 9 inch off ground calibration make sure the collective stick doesn't move at all. power off heli and tx. return links to where the links were.
this will push the neutral servo setting down if it fails makes sure your trim is okay on collective.
remember that heli collective is set to fly at 50 stick on stunt1
and 3/4 stick on stunt 2 and rescue
this routine has taken at least 6 months to devise. it's very hard to pass it along just in words.
|04-21-2020, 01:06 AM||#3 (permalink)|
Join Date: Mar 2007
Looks interesting... You've obviously gone to a lot of work and trouble to write this.
But I would need a YouTube video to completely understand this.
Last edited by onepiece; 04-21-2020 at 08:24 AM..
|04-22-2020, 04:27 PM||#4 (permalink)|
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Lyon, France
Interesting technique indeed. I read it twice as suggested, but as @onepiece said, I would prefer a video of it if possible!
|04-23-2020, 05:12 PM||#5 (permalink)|
Join Date: Apr 2020
i'll make a video sometime soon. the problem is i can't think of a way to make it more comprehensive. all you want to do is make the trims line up, (it
should be easy since they go opposite directs in one mode versus the other.
also the 3d trim doesn't get centered like the stability trim after calibration.
keep reading and experimenting until you get your head around it.
|05-17-2020, 03:23 AM||#6 (permalink)|
Join Date: Apr 2020
my final effort to make this right
it's me again margret,
you have three inputs and two outputs
inputs: trim buttons on tx and ball links on chopper as well as calibration mode
outputs: stabilized mode drift and rate mode drift
goal: equalize trim and adjust ball links to suite a level hover
along with equal +/- pitch in both stability and rate mode. when complete your trims MUST be at zero or heli program will update and throw your work away. causing a sad face.
you must also level your helipad for a consistent gyro initialization. i use a fitness riser/ stepper platform that i have leveled with my phones clinometer app. it hasn't moved since, i hope.
you can isolate your work to one channel at a time. just leave
known good channels trim at center. this will leave the channel's last value alone.
trim your heli in rate mode this mode uses the straight forward trim.
stabilized mode has an opposite trim
you must run calibration mode OR fly in one spot long enough to satisfy the the software's auto-update function, this function is only slightly looked into by myself.
a large part of the tuning is being able to tell weather to move
the trim on tx or a ball link.
it's a call based on what the heli does RIGHT AFTER you press or release the panic button.
if the heli doesn't really change it's attitude or change it's drift when you press and release the panic button repeatedly. yes over and over, no change but it's drifting
just align your ball links till drifting stops.
now with all that said try to have a sight picture of the helicopter's servo position.
what i mean by this is match the servo horn to the servo body to get a heads up in case you are losing your way.
a dry erase board would help keep you from confusion
sight picture example in attachments. if you look close my servo position is between servo motor mount points this is at full - pitch. i use this to keep track of my progress.
trim for rate mode is not a floating point trim. trim for stability is a floating point. meaning if your trim is moved right 3 and you run calibration mode then center trims, your RATE mode trim will be zero. your STABILITY mode trim will be left 3. because you zeroed your floating point at right then moved left by 3.
what i did over and over until i got it was i'd pull the panic switch and watch closely.
the heli is going from rate mode 'hold-attitude at middle stick'
to stability 'level-attitude at middle stick'.
i had a few "ah hah" moments in there and i decided to do the same in reverse this lead to the original version of instructions i posted. which were
1 fly in stability trim it out. land. count the number of steps toward zero. continue on in same direction by the same number. fly calibration 9 inches off ground land center trims.
2fly again stability mode to rate to stability to rate. looking for movement.
if movement between modes then repeat 1
if no change in attitude between modes but a steady drift is still present leave trims at zero and move your ball links until a steady hover is achieved in stability.
always know what to move if you stumble alot on this use a dry erase board
remember always: with stability mode comes a floating point
with rate mode comes an absolute point
thus to get left you first must go right then calibrate and finally center
you have it?
|06-27-2020, 10:18 PM||#7 (permalink)|
Join Date: Apr 2020
the automatic update style is a much faster easier going technique.
make your trim movements small and fly in one spot for about 45 seconds to a minute without much stick movement.
you will see your chopper twitch and tend to drift. it has updated. land and center your trims.
the stabilized trims are still in reverse as opposed to stunt trims being normal.
if a drift is present in both modes in the same direction it is your ball links. if there is a drift in stability mode and no drift in stunt mode you may have to update your trims and move your links in the same direction.
my links measure .955 in front and .933 in back
if you do not have a set of digital calipers use a ruler @ 1 inch then tighten the front 2 by 6 full turns, the back tighten by 5 turns from the end as the link will not reach 1 inch. you will still need to adjust your links after measuring due to differences in equipment.