X5 V2 belt couple build questions

[gmann]

The manual is not very good (it's pretty bad actually), and I've had to figure out a lot of things trial and error so far... This is what I would call a "pro" builder kit, not for a beginner...

Anyway, could someone tell us what the starting rods lengths might need to be? Manual doesn't even mention it.

And, anybody know what the heck the part in the pic is or where it's sposed to go? Thanks.

P.S. I found out that the M2.6X10 screws which are for mounting the servos, are TOO LONG in several locations, since the bump up against the frame, so I had to dig thru my spare parts to find some shorter. Example, for the elev servo, the bottom screws would stick out thru the hole inside almost touching the dang belt!

PPS This is yet another model (like Goblins) where you have to remove the motor to install/remove the front servos - no biggie I guess, just a hassle design that bugs me

[tonys-heli]

that part is the tail boom brace support.. goes between both braces.. you need 4 small tie wraps.
I think my kit the screws were too long also.. just cut them.

[thebirdman]

Hi Gmann, you need to be mindfull and think... manufactures "suggest" electronic equipment, if one decides on different, they need to be diligent in the build, especially with bolts that protrude into bearing surfaces and blind holes, just part of being a good builder
Rod lengths are dependent on your servo setup and flybarless unit, again it is part of setting up a build correctly, 8 turns in each side is a good starting point.
Just take you're time, and be patient, you will be rewarded with a super flying model.....Have several gaui's and they will all put a smile on my face

[gmann]

Thanks - I'm pretty much done with the setup, struggled thru it Sunday. I ended up making the rods too short to start out with, and had to back them all out 4 or 5 twists to get the swash/zero pitch correct. For the elev servo, there sure ain't much room in there between the frames to get the servo horn in there correctly positioned on splines, but I managed after a few choice comments I'm sure I'm gonna like this heli.
I'm trying to decide if I should put velcro under the plate in there to mount the battery (from it's top side...) cause it looks like it would be hard to pull the thing loose once it's in there...

[tonys-heli]

that's where a servo tool helps.. it lets you center them before mounting them.. pretty neat.

[thebirdman]

I use pulse 5500-45's no need for Velcro, tight fit but strap holds it firmly

[tonys-heli]

what I don't understand, on the v2, why didn't they make it so theres a flat part where the lipo goes on the bottom, not the top? it makes more sense to strap the lipo down instead of up, right?

[Mr_Dirt]

I put just enough velcro to help hold the battery in place while I strap it in. When finished, just give it a twist and it comes right out.

The main reason it straps towards the top, is to keep the weight close to the roll center of the model.

[tonys-heli]

We’re talking the thickness of Velcro here man.. there is no way thats helping the roll of the heli. We’re talking mm’s. It’s basic heli building 101.. put the lipo in and strap it down.... not up... wtf.

[gmann]

4 flights so far, flying GOOD, and nothing fell off Fun little machine!

I didn't put any velcro in the heli, and my batts are staying in place just fine with 2 straps tight.

Question: I'm using a Talon 90, and this morning I got the overtemp warning, on a VERY warm day in north Texas. I likely flew it a little too long, down to 20% left, but anyway, ESC was very hot to the touch. Pretty agressive 3d flight (well, as good as I can do throwing it around...).

Is there a fan avaliable (like for the Talon 120), or did any of youse guys drill some holes in the top of the canopy over the ESC? Thanks.

[tonys-heli]

do you have the current protection setting on "insensitive" ?

[gmann]

Nope, it was Normal - I just updated it. Thanks

[karl1081]

whats your rudder servo arm centre to ball link dimension , im ususing sab carbon arms and my ball is in the 16mm hole , im getting very slight wag and wondering wether to bring it in to next hole ?

[gmann]

approx 15mm, tail is solid no wag...

[karl1081]

iv tried it at 13.5mm and 15mm , still got slight wag ,very slight . tail is mechanically perfect , butter smooth . i can only assume its either because im using the esc governor or the kyle stacey servo just doeasnt suit the spurit pro and gaui x5 v2 .which tail servo are you using ?

[gmann]

A well-used and trusty Align DS655

[Lumberjackbr]

Originally Posted by karl1081

iv tried it at 13.5mm and 15mm , still got slight wag ,very slight . tail is mechanically perfect , butter smooth . i can only assume its either because im using the esc governor or the kyle stacey servo just doeasnt suit the spurit pro and gaui x5 v2 .which tail servo are you using ?

I have a little bit of wag on x3. I changed the arm hole today, I'm 7mm now. Before was 10mm. But I will only fly tomorrow.

I also use the governor of the HW.

I saw in old topics someone talking about governor gain, which might be high gain, so change the P parameter to a smaller gain. Default is 4. Maybe change to 3. But this is something I've read, I'm not sure about anything. It's worth trying.

I also read that low HS can happen.

Good luck!


PS: I don't know why, but for a moment I thought you are using hobbywing esc. Even if it isn't, the tip is here, maybe it will help someone in the future.

[gmann]

2 very nice flites this morning - got overtemp on 2nd flite, but I think I went too long (again - my fault), and my roaringtop 4500 lipo may be slightly damaged from a crash in another heli a few months back. The almost new roartop 4000 works great and I come down with 25-30% left after almost 5 min fairly aggressive stuff and NO overtemp- but I'm not a spastic 3d'er...

[gmann]

2 aggressive flites in hot 90 degrees, ESC just warm to touch burned my finger before...

https://www.amainhobbies.com/ruddog-...p-0094/p538052