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Old 08-22-2019, 10:39 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Help with making the flybarless controller act like a flybar...

I'm quite new to the hobby with an old Blade 400 3D.

Firstly, I want to say how grateful I am to the AccuRC team for providing such an excellent, affordable and accessible simulator. I've been using Steam for almost as long as it's been live and was happy when I saw you on there!

I've now got just over 20 flights on my old B400, and already progressed to flips, rolls, stall turns and some brief inverted hovers. No crashes yet (over 700 on the sim though..!) Definitely would not be there without AccuRC!

I initially started using the Trex 500 Flybar model, thinking that the flybar aspect would be most important. After some research, I realised that I'd probably be better off with the Trex 450, despite it being flybarless.

The only thing is, it doesn't really feel like my B400 due to the FB/FBL differences.

I've heard that with real FBL helis, you can tweak the FBL system to mimic the FB feel. Is this possible in AccuRC 2, and if so, any pointers please?

I'm struggling to understand all of the FBL parameters within the sim and would appreciate being pointed in the direction of some useful resources on the topic. Can I simply read about real FBL setup and translate that to the sim?
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Blade 400 3D "2019 Edition" - Stock 420H Motor, EFLA335H 35A ESC, Quark Spartan, Savox 0257MG servos all-round, Trex 500 skids, DX6i.

My YouTube channel - https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCjxIBBszfXNcHtNCM7dbELg
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Old 08-23-2019, 08:09 AM   #2 (permalink)
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While it's not gonna be exactly the same thing, there are some things you can do to at least get it close. Essentially:
  • Bump up the integral discharge speed until the cyclic drift is comparable to a flybar, try 90-100%
  • Lower the elevator and aileron gains, this destabilizes the model and makes it more prone to cross coupling, try 0-25%
  • Adjust your cyclic rate (in case you don't set gain all the way to 0) and cyclic passthrough to match the model's cyclic response and speed to your real heli

It will take some experimenting and tweaking, but a quick test on the T-REX 450 got me quite paddly results relatively easily.
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Old 08-23-2019, 09:17 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnny31297 View Post
While it's not gonna be exactly the same thing, there are some things you can do to at least get it close. Essentially:
  • Bump up the integral discharge speed until the cyclic drift is comparable to a flybar, try 90-100%
  • Lower the elevator and aileron gains, this destabilizes the model and makes it more prone to cross coupling, try 0-25%
  • Adjust your cyclic rate (in case you don't set gain all the way to 0) and cyclic passthrough to match the model's cyclic response and speed to your real heli

It will take some experimenting and tweaking, but a quick test on the T-REX 450 got me quite paddly results relatively easily.
Thanks for the suggestion Jonny, much appreciated - I've had a quick go messing around with those settings and it does indeed feel a bit closer. I'll keep tweaking and see if I can improve it further when I've more time.

Something you may be interested in.... while moving one of the sliders in the FBL setup page (integral discharge I think) a tooltip briefly appeared (less than one second).

I've never seen those before, and couldn't get any tooltips to reappear afterward.

Are tooltips supposed to appear when highlighting setting sliders?
__________________
Blade 400 3D "2019 Edition" - Stock 420H Motor, EFLA335H 35A ESC, Quark Spartan, Savox 0257MG servos all-round, Trex 500 skids, DX6i.

My YouTube channel - https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCjxIBBszfXNcHtNCM7dbELg
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