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Old 10-15-2019, 05:32 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default This thing sucks

I’m not normally one to slam heli or the company selling them. I have owned 5 or 6 blade helis but this is the first one I’ve bought since they came out with the flight modes. I had previously been interested in the 230s but after emailing back and forth with support for a week and having them flat out tell me they don’t know how flight modes are activated, I decided to take a pass.

I was at my lhs and they had the nano s2 on sale for 85 so I figured I’d give it a try. Maybe all the threads I’d read about all the problems programing the new helis were just people who aren’t very smart.

Well programming it was a pain. My first binding attempt resulted in the heli being in 3d mode, with throttle hold not working (apparently it has to be set to -120, because it ignores the throttle all together in this mode unless it’s set really low)

Anyway after much fiddling I got the flight modes and throttle hold working. Well I try the blue light modes and the heli pulls hard right. So I try the red light mode and it hovers level but when I move the pitch up or down, it randomly jumps up or slams into the ground. Not everytime, just sometimes, did it several times in a minute. This was done indoors, so no wind, and I could hear a major change in headspeed happening.

Now of course phone wait times for heli support are over an hour and they take days to even respond to an email. I’ve been buying their stuff for a decade but I’m pretty much done with them. I really like some of their planes, but their support just sucks in my opinion, it’s like Walmart, you can return it but don’t bother asking for any help setting it up or diagnosing a problem.

Ok done ranting, except thanks for discontinuing all parts for the 130x and being out of stock on other parts all the time horizon

Peace
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Old 10-15-2019, 09:31 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Wow, directly in 3D mode after bind.
I guess this must have been "fun" in the living room with the wrong (-100%) throttle cut / hold programming.


Quote:
Originally Posted by infamousnation View Post
no flybars allowed
Looks like HH has read YOUR footer and decided to discontinue all their flybar parts for my Blade 4503D paddle heli :-)

I still have it....have the aluminium flybar seesaw holder set as the tuning alu variant.
I am fine for 2-3 crashes but after that I run out of feathering shafts main shafts and other flybar parts.

For sure I do not even have to say that the full head is too costly to consider a direct FBL 450X parts swap.


I could get a ALZRC X360 - including main blades and canopy - for a good kit price.


My plastic Blade 450 main frame is still corrupted a bit because of the front left landing leg; maybe it would have been good to use a separate bottom plate, like I have seen it on a Trex 450 model from an acquaintance.

One of the pitch compensator / washout control arms is not level / as high as the other one which affects blade tracking and zero pitch, very weird.
Not sure if they can bend in a crash; plastic material looks quite stiff and not bent.
But the replacement cost for the 4503D (not the FBL variant) alone is 24EUR and the 450X uses a different number.

More and more Blade spare parts seem to becoming unavailable at the LHS wall and prices have increased since 2012 steadily when I compare 2015 or 2016 and for discontinued models....maybe it really is time next year to swap to ALZRC as "priority direct mail" from China (DHL) does not take longer than 7 days?!

I have no interest to have to pay for a main frame 20EUR, the canopy another 24EUR...maybe I find here in Germany a used replacement head.

At the least the old ESC (no governor) works...just need to find a way how to mount a new midi servo on the 450 tail boom
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Old 10-16-2019, 01:50 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Yeah it took me a bit to figure out how to stop it, I had to put it in a different flight mode, at first I’m thinking how the heck do I stop this thing.

What I think is really dumb is the esc will arm and spool up if the throttle is set to 100 or 0. (In redlight mode) It should only arm if it’s 0. The fact that the controller ignores the throttle signal unless it is very negative makes it even worse.

I had the same thing happen with a striker I bought from them years ago. I put a Hitec rx in and as soon as it bound the motor took off full power, and that’s a powerful motor, it destroyed the model and scared the crap out of me.
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Old 10-16-2019, 02:07 AM   #4 (permalink)
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It’s also worth noting the manual says use throttle hold 0, just like every other electric. It doesn’t say anything about you gotta go 20% lower in red light mode or whatever. So you follow their directions and find yourself in a dangerous situation and I’m sure they have been getting emails everyday for 10 years from people having the exact same problems.
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Old 10-17-2019, 12:36 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
I had previously been interested in the 230s but after emailing back and forth with support for a week and having them flat out tell me they don’t know how flight modes are activated, I decided to take a pass.
Really? Well thats pretty easy!
AR636 FBL will change Flight Modes depending of the value of channel 5. (GEAR).
At -100 it will be 3D mode.
At 0 it will be intermediate mode.
At +100 it will be stability mode.
At +150 it will change into rescue .

Rescue is made made by the mixer in your Radio. All the rest is made by the Flight mode switch.
Same is valid for Blade 130S, 150S, 250cfx...all AR636 and AR6335 FBL if SAFE Option is available for that Modell.
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Old 10-17-2019, 12:47 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I didn't have trouble getting TH to work on mine but I saw a post about programming throttle cut and throttle hold to the same switch before I tried to fly it the first time.
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Old 10-17-2019, 12:49 PM   #7 (permalink)
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TH seems to work just fine on my DX9, even in Stunt2, but I always program a throttle cut to -130% just to have it.
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Old 10-17-2019, 04:53 PM   #8 (permalink)
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The nano is actually great, it was having some issue with the JR tx I was using it with. Tried it with a dx6 and did a calibration and everything works well, piro comp is very good. Did not invert so not sure about that but for the money it’s good. I still think having a manual that tells the wrong TH setting is really bad and and esc that will arm at just about anything is worse.
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