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Old 12-21-2019, 03:01 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default 800 you shall build my little Mikadawan (build pics added)

Always regretted selling my beloved 600SE a long time ago, wanting to replace it with a 800 in fact, but never got completely convinced by the XXtreme series, perhaps it just didn't feel "Mikado" enough for me, I don't know.

Drooling on the Logo 700, yes, absolutely, but the TDRs do the job just fine, so it was a long wait for a nice 800. And today it finally happened.

Got myself a kit with blades and 4535 Scorpion motor, a cool Kosmik 200, a VStabi NEO + 2 DSMX remote receivers and Futaba 272/276 servos, I should be good to go. Let's build this thing.

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Last edited by redbird300; 12-26-2019 at 03:27 PM.. Reason: added build pictures
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Old 12-26-2019, 03:14 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Some pictures of the build, in chronological order, as in the manual.





One little issue when trying to insert the small vertical shaft that holds the vertical beveled tailgear (part nr. 4523) inside the chassis: the metal upper part nr. 5022 sits partially on top and partially in the upper bearing, and should be a tight fit for the shaft. Way too tight, impossible to make it pass without a sledge hammer, so I carefully grinded the interior of the part a bit, perfect fit now.







Yep, the rear skid is backwards, intentionally. Has something to do with the way I attach the heli in my car during transport, I have a system that locks around the skids, and mounting them this way makes it easier. Pics later on.





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Old 12-26-2019, 03:24 PM   #3 (permalink)
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There's just enough room between the two gears to put the pin through the main shaft, no problem. About a (small) mm vertical play on the main gear after the complete assembly, as stated in the manual, nice.













That's it for now.
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Old 12-27-2019, 05:03 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote from the manual: "the tail gear position is set to a good starting mesh with the factory recommended shim placement".
This means a 0.1+0.2 mm shim at each side, 4 shims in total.
This didn't work for me, way too much play.
I ended up putting all 4 shims at the left side of the bevel gear, after some trail and error. This gave me the small amount of play and with just 1 position where there is no play between the gears when turning them around, as described in the manual.



I will probably lightly sand and degrease the carbon tail fin and spray it bright yellow later on.
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Old 12-28-2019, 09:13 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Very nice. I wondered when we'd see them start to ship. Look forward to the rest of it.
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Old 12-28-2019, 02:19 PM   #6 (permalink)
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The 2 mm bolts that hold the balls on the tailgrips are a little too thick to go through the balls, I needed to sand them down slightly. The bolts are exactly 2,00 mm, all other M2 bolts I have laying around are more like 1,90 mm thick, so that makes sense. No other issues.



The 10 mm long pieces of shrink tube that need to hold the 4 bearings in place on the torque tube barely do the job, some tend to slide when inserting the tube in the tail boom, even when applying grease on the rubber outer rings and in the tail boom. Better put some longer pieces of shrink tube, imho. I used some epoxy glue, better be safe than sorry.

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Old 12-28-2019, 11:06 PM   #7 (permalink)
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If it's the same shrink heat shrink that Mikado includes in the Logo 700 kit, it has heat-activated adhesive on the inside.


Once you slide the heatshrink-bearing-heatshrink in to place and heat it with a heat gun, and let it cool, the heatshrink should adhere quite well and not allow the bearing to move much at all.



Quote:
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The 10 mm long pieces of shrink tube that need to hold the 4 bearings in place on the torque tube barely do the job, some tend to slide when inserting the tube in the tail boom, even when applying grease on the rubber outer rings and in the tail boom. Better put some longer pieces of shrink tube, imho. I used some epoxy glue, better be safe than sorry.

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Old 12-29-2019, 01:30 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Understood, and it makes sense. I heated one piece of heat shrink tube, put a bearing, heated the one at the other side of the bearing, and did this four times. Afterwards, I noted that number 1, 3, 5 en 7 were well fixed, these are the ones I heated without a bearing next to them. Number 2, 4, 6 en 8 were sliding, because I was too careful not to heat the rubber rings on the bearings too much. Without a doubt, that's the reason they didn't hold well, my mistake. Especially the edge close to the bearing was not heated enough.
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Old 12-31-2019, 08:48 AM   #9 (permalink)
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The head is ready:



I didn't put the head and the tail on the heli yet, as it is easier to finish the electronics without these parts attached, especially the long tail. The Kosmik is mounted with two 3 mm screws at the bottom (I drilled two holes in the frame), velcro at the sides and one of the Mikado straps:



The master and slave wire that came with the Kosmik, and need to plug in the VBar are too short for this heli. Making some cables myself now, with thicker 0,35 mm≤ silicone wire, using the original coil. The servo connectors are crimped and also soldered afterwards with a very fine soldering iron.



Just for fun, the workbench at the moment, Christmas tree included. :-)

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Old 01-03-2020, 05:40 PM   #10 (permalink)
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The master and slave BEC cables are ready, tested and fixed to the frame.
Also having some fun with AccuRC and an old DX8 that I keep for simming, flying...guess what.





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Old 01-04-2020, 06:31 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Soldering the motor cables.

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Old 01-04-2020, 09:23 AM   #12 (permalink)
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I'm not seeing the difference in the lower frame/landing gear. Still looks the same as the 700 parts.
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Old 01-04-2020, 09:39 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Corvette & Copter Guy View Post
I'm not seeing the difference in the lower frame/landing gear. Still looks the same as the 700 parts.
It is supposed to be larger, but I don't own a 700, so I can't comment on that, sorry. I could measure the battery bay though, if you wish.
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Old 01-04-2020, 05:38 PM   #14 (permalink)
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How about:
skid tube length
distance between skid tubes
and lipo bay


Thx in advance.
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Old 01-04-2020, 10:04 PM   #15 (permalink)
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There is a video on Facebook of the 700 and 800 side by side. The lower frames look taller when next to each other. The 700 is already a pretty big 700. Iím really looking forward to these starting to ship. MikadoUSA said that itís be late December but that didnít happen.

Here is the link to FB video. No idea if itíll work.
https://www.facebook.com/1364827608/...023932397/?d=n
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Old 01-04-2020, 11:55 PM   #16 (permalink)
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It worked for me and I don't have FB. THX!!!
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Old 01-05-2020, 05:47 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Might be my OCD but after working on a Logo I was left frustrated by the total lack of thought for cable routing. You have made a great job of it under the circumstances on this build, but I think it's a shame that Mikado didnt take advantage of the benefit plastic moulded frame construction and form some conduits into the frame to take cabling.

Maybe just me?

Anyway, looking forward to seeing this big beast take shape!
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Old 01-05-2020, 09:16 AM   #18 (permalink)
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Glad to see that Mikado relocated the elevator servo. The elevator servo on the 600SX can't be in a worse location.
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Old 01-05-2020, 09:58 AM   #19 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Corvette & Copter Guy View Post
How about:
skid tube length
distance between skid tubes
and lipo bay


Thx in advance.
You're welcome.

Skid length = 38 cm.
Interior distance between skid tubes = 18,6 cm.
Lipo bay: width = 6 cm at the narrowest point, height = 8,7 cm, measured from the battery plate to the highest point of the bottom of the frame, length = 33 cm from the back of the lipo bay to the most front part of the frame (underneath my ESC), note that the battery tray sticks another 8 cm extra out of the front of the frame when fully inserted.
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Old 01-05-2020, 10:02 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grumpy_Old_Man View Post
Might be my OCD but after working on a Logo I was left frustrated by the total lack of thought for cable routing. You have made a great job of it under the circumstances on this build, but I think it's a shame that Mikado didnt take advantage of the benefit plastic moulded frame construction and form some conduits into the frame to take cabling.

Maybe just me?

Anyway, looking forward to seeing this big beast take shape!
No, I was thinking exactly the same in fact. Nothing wrong with your opinion. I really love the Mikado brand, but that doesn't mean that one can't have second thoughts about some details of their helis.
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