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Old 01-05-2020, 11:41 AM   #21 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grumpy_Old_Man View Post
Might be my OCD but after working on a Logo I was left frustrated by the total lack of thought for cable routing. You have made a great job of it under the circumstances on this build, but I think it's a shame that Mikado didnt take advantage of the benefit plastic moulded frame construction and form some conduits into the frame to take cabling.

Maybe just me?

Anyway, looking forward to seeing this big beast take shape!
Really, It's one to two cables from the esc. And you can drill holes in the frame to route them cleanly if you choose. Very easy.

I find my logos the easiest to wire, but you will see the esc wires when taking the easy way like I do.

If you crash often like me you'd appreciate easy to get to wires that aren't a routing labyrinth nightmare to undo and redo.

700 has a nice little shelf above the main gear. I use hot glue.

500 to 690 is just what it is.
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Old 01-05-2020, 01:19 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grumpy_Old_Man View Post
Might be my OCD but after working on a Logo I was left frustrated by the total lack of thought for cable routing. You have made a great job of it under the circumstances on this build, but I think it's a shame that Mikado didnt take advantage of the benefit plastic moulded frame construction and form some conduits into the frame to take cabling.

Maybe just me?

Anyway, looking forward to seeing this big beast take shape!

I'm very OCD and on my 700 I drilled holes everywhere to route the wires inside. That included 2 ground wires drilled and tapped into the motor mount. I also wish Mikado took the opportunity to have wire runs but I just done ever see that happening.
Because of this, wiring my models take longer than the build. In the end they always look great and I get compliments all the time.
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Old 01-07-2020, 02:12 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Most of the wiring is done by now.

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Old 01-07-2020, 04:05 PM   #24 (permalink)
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I'm very OCD and on my 700 I drilled holes everywhere to route the wires inside. That included 2 ground wires drilled and tapped into the motor mount. I also wish Mikado took the opportunity to have wire runs but I just done ever see that happening.
Because of this, wiring my models take longer than the build. In the end they always look great and I get compliments all the time.
I have some pictures of a 700 with Savox cyclic and an other with MKS 575 maybe one of yours but not take time to do the same. I see an other on with antistatic inside.
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Old 01-07-2020, 10:29 PM   #25 (permalink)
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A little extra work during assembly to run the wires inside, it is easily done especially if you have built them before. Your 800 is looking good
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Old 01-11-2020, 09:26 AM   #26 (permalink)
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Head and tail mounted, getting ready to test the balance.



This thing takes heavy packs if needed. Even two heavy 980 grams test batteries balanced just fine, without protruding at the back of the battery plate, which means there is +5 centimeters to move the packs backwards in the battery tray if you'd wish, as the battery plate doesn't come close to the back of the battery bay. I even needed to advance the packs slightly to get a perfect balance.

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Old 01-12-2020, 08:37 AM   #27 (permalink)
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Figuring out the connectors and necessary cable lengths, soldering and finishing the XT150 batteryconnectors.



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Old 01-12-2020, 08:47 AM   #28 (permalink)
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Had to modify the shelves in the garage slightly, it's higher than a 700, to give it a place next to his brothers in crime.





The wooden board at the left on the wall fits snugly in the car, and the two 700s are fixed to it when it's in the car. There's room for the 800 left, need to attach an extra tail support and skid clamps to the board for the 800.

Only the setup is left to do now.
Thanks for watching and happy flying to you all.
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Old 01-12-2020, 08:55 AM   #29 (permalink)
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Nice work!

Very curious in your AUW with and w/o battery?
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Old 01-12-2020, 09:15 AM   #30 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Nice work!

Very curious in your AUW with and w/o battery?
Good idea, I took at a digital kitchen scale and got these values, give or take a few grams:

canopy = 370 grams
main blades = 530 grams
heli without canopy, main blades or packs = 3600 grams

Making for a total of 4500 grams, as said, without the (rather heavy) 7S/5000 packs and battery plate.

Add 1860 grams for those, and the total RTF weight = 6360 grams.
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Old 01-14-2020, 08:59 PM   #31 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redbird300 View Post
Good idea, I took at a digital kitchen scale and got these values, give or take a few grams:

canopy = 370 grams
main blades = 530 grams
heli without canopy, main blades or packs = 3600 grams

Making for a total of 4500 grams, as said, without the (rather heavy) 7S/5000 packs and battery plate.

Add 1860 grams for those, and the total RTF weight = 6360 grams.
Very interesting and thanks for weighing!

My 700XX from 2012 is running a 4535 on 760mm and 14S 5000.

Weight w/o batteries is 4400g
+ 2x TP 7S 5000 = 1830g
AUW = 6230g or 13.74lb

I still find it to fly a bit "heavy", but way better than when on 710mm!

Curious of your flight impressions and ENJOY!
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Old 01-26-2020, 08:17 PM   #32 (permalink)
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Is running this on 12S with 4525 520kV a good idea?
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Old 01-28-2020, 12:48 AM   #33 (permalink)
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shes a beast. You know you can run all wires from the front underneath the motor cage safely to the rear and no drilling required and easy access if you need to get to the wiring.
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Old 02-04-2020, 01:13 PM   #34 (permalink)
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Is running this on 12S with 4525 520kV a good idea?
That depends on your intentions. If you plan to sport fly with the occasional flip and light circuits, etc, then yes a 4525 could work, but would still feel very underpowered and boggy, especially on 12S.

But the short answer is no, its not a good idea. The 800 Logo is a massive machine. It dwarfs my 700s and even my 770. I run mine with a 4540 on 16S at 2000rpm and, even with all the FBL settings maxed out, it still feels like it can't get out of its own way.

The new Logo is 500g lighter which will certainly help, but you really should be going with a 4530 at absolute minimum with this machine if you plan to do anything beyond sport flying. 4535 would be ideal.

If I were to build one again, i'd be going with either a Kosmik 250A or a Scorpion 300A ESC, and 14S 4400s to keep it as light as possible. For motor, the Xnova 50xx Tareq edition would give the torque needed with the wider/fatter stator and provide huge peak power.
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Old 02-14-2020, 01:30 PM   #35 (permalink)
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2000 rpm on an 800?
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Old 02-14-2020, 05:15 PM   #36 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by prototype3a View Post
2000 rpm on an 800?


It can be done. Dahl stress tested the old 800 up to 2150rpm but he bent the blade bolts and puffed the packs in only a few flights. You needed a custom pinion for that rpm as seen in the video below, but it is possible.


Logo Xxtreme can smack... (4 min 59 sec)



Thinking it through, I knew I wanted to achieve at least 2000rpm, but not sacrifice pack longevity and a cool / efficient running system so 16S was the obvious choice and that's what I did. This allowed me to run a 16T pinion for a whopping 10.9 gear ratio which is very snappy / torquey.


However, 16S is expensive and charger options are limited. For the new machine, i'd definitely go 14S given its a bit lighter.
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