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Old 04-27-2020, 04:51 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Terrible flight times

hello, I am having problems with my new nano s2. I have it bound to a dx8g2, and fly in iu2 (red led on) I have 11 brand new e flight 150mah 45c batteries and haven't been able to enjoy it much because I average 30 seconds of flight time a range between 20 secs to 50 secs... ive been through the manual, and radio several times with no luck. I've charged batteries with my sigma charger as well as the little charger it came with. All batteries after flight average 4.16 to 4.19 volts after each flight and will not take more than 5 minutes of charge time to recoupe to 4.23 volts. I have bound the heli numerous times, with holding the rudder to the right and just binding through setup menu with no change. Red LED will flash about 5 seconds before heli fully shuts down signaling a low voltage cutoff but when i measure the battery voltage through my charger and my fluke multimeter I get 4.16 volts at lowest between 11 batteries. Any help will be greatly appreciated in hopes I can actually fly this heli
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Old 04-27-2020, 05:39 AM   #2 (permalink)
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it sounds like there is some binding happening maybe? check that the mechanics all operate smoothly. Especially the main gear. Its possible to have it too far up and create a pinch effect on the frame that gives some friction. I bet that would make the voltage dip significantly which would make the heli think that LVC time was at hand.
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Old 04-27-2020, 06:06 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Hi.

I have read about your problem before. It may be a board problem, where you have to bridge a resistor. There are 3 resistors on the board in parallel, so anyone will suffice.

I hope if it is your board it would be covered under warranty..
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Old 04-27-2020, 07:51 AM   #4 (permalink)
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How many flights are on it?

And I believe that would be a brushed motor???

My old nano cpx would act that way when the motor brushes burned out which I could do about once a week.
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Old 04-27-2020, 08:09 AM   #5 (permalink)
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There are several shunt resistors on the board that are used mostly for over current detection. Many of us have shorted one of them because of early shutdown issues. The are 0.05 ohms and on the edge of the board in a row.
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Old 04-27-2020, 09:21 AM   #6 (permalink)
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I can attest that the bridging of the shunt resistors is an effective fix. I was experiencing the same issues. Several posts on RCG relate to the issue. I bridged the last resistor in line closes to edge of the board. Simple and solved the problem. I did not remove the resistor just laid a stream of solder bridging the contacts. Back to normal flights now.
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Old 04-27-2020, 11:51 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
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How many flights are on it?

And I believe that would be a brushed motor???

My old nano cpx would act that way when the motor brushes burned out which I could do about once a week.
Hello, thank you for the reply there's about 30 or so very short test flights and a few hours of idle time binding and checking over the heli with another few hours of disassembly and reassembly. Yes I believe it to be a brushed motor.
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Old 04-27-2020, 11:53 AM   #8 (permalink)
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There are several shunt resistors on the board that are used mostly for over current detection. Many of us have shorted one of them because of early shutdown issues. The are 0.05 ohms and on the edge of the board in a row.
Hello, thank you for your response, I am very curious about this. I will try to attach a picture of the main board and maybe you or someone can point out where the shunt resistor is and in the mean time I will do a quick search and try to ohm the board and look for the .05 resistance
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Old 04-27-2020, 11:55 AM   #9 (permalink)
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I can attest that the bridging of the shunt resistors is an effective fix. I was experiencing the same issues. Several posts on RCG relate to the issue. I bridged the last resistor in line closes to edge of the board. Simple and solved the problem. I did not remove the resistor just laid a stream of solder bridging the contacts. Back to normal flights now.
Hello and thank you for the reply. Would you be able to show me what resistor to solder?
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Old 04-27-2020, 12:10 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Not really sure if how to post a picture so I am sharing a link in hopes you can see the board.
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Old 04-27-2020, 12:33 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Upper left corner. The ones that say R050. Jumper any one as they are all in parallel.

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Old 04-27-2020, 01:34 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Upper left corner. The ones that say R050. Jumper any one as they are all in parallel.

Thank you so much for your reply, I just soldered the board and either I didn't quite solder it well or it didn't do much, just reassembled and tried to batteries and both were about 22 seconds. I appreciate your help and gonna write myself a note and put the heli back in the box. Maybe after sometime my disappointment will fade and ill want to attempt to repair this brand new heli... Thank you again to all that attempted to get me going. Aloha!
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Old 05-01-2020, 10:05 PM   #13 (permalink)
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I just posted about the same issue. I think it's the overcurrent protection. Time to get out the soldering iron.
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Old 05-28-2020, 09:59 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Try fiddling with or replacing the battery connector cable.

That often fixes the issue that you are complaining of.
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Old 05-28-2020, 01:45 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Read the last few posts, I've had the same issues as you. The 150 mAh batteries are absolute bleh: https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...ano-S2/page128

Also I would contact HH for a replacement board. The shunt resistor issue seems to be a common issue. I did and I'm sending the heli in for diagnosis.

And they usually stand by their products so they will more than likely send a replacement board or ask you to send it for it to be fixed.
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Old 06-01-2020, 03:44 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Read the last few posts, I've had the same issues as you. The 150 mAh batteries are absolute bleh: https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...ano-S2/page128
I'll second this - I bought five stock cells with my S2 and regret it. I barely get 1-2 minutes out of them if ibefore they really start to sag (and maybe 3 to hit LVC) - they're awful.

In contrast, with aggressive sport flying it takes about 6-7 minutes to hit LVC with the 200mah Turnigy Nanotechs, with good power for the first 4 minutes or so.
That is with an upgraded BetaFPV 15000kV motor though.

The fact that you're literally getting seconds out of yours does indicate another factor is at play, but I'll bet it's being exacerbated by the shitty stock lipos.

Regarding the resistor mod - I do sometimes get random cut-offs in flight (even with a fresh battery) but it's rare thankfully - only when I've really abused the collective and headspeed has dropped a lot.
I've no soldering experience so I can live with it for now, and it's forcing me to have better collective management!
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Old 06-07-2020, 08:00 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Default battery lvc

if you look in the book it says running to lvc (low voltage cutoff) repeatedly with destroy your batteries. how to reverse the effects get a timer and pull the pack with some time to spare before the red led flickers then charge when cool. ensure the pack is not disturbed during charging. in colder weather your batteries will not discharge all the way (though this may not be your case). how to combat this cold weather problem is to hold each cell in your palm until warm and then fly. i have flown in 30 degree weather with this technique with battery times of 4+ minutes.
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Old 06-07-2020, 09:30 PM   #18 (permalink)
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if you look in the book it says running to lvc (low voltage cutoff) repeatedly with destroy your batteries. how to reverse the effects get a timer and pull the pack with some time to spare before the red led flickers then charge when cool. ensure the pack is not disturbed during charging. in colder weather your batteries will not discharge all the way (though this may not be your case). how to combat this cold weather problem is to hold each cell in your palm until warm and then fly. i have flown in 30 degree weather with this technique with battery times of 4+ minutes.
If you read the previous posts from the top you would have understood the situation better..
Yes the manual does say not to fly once the lvc led flashes... however when the lvc comes on with 4.19 volts left in the pack, that is something completely different that the manual does not cover.
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Old 06-07-2020, 11:42 PM   #19 (permalink)
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It may be a combination of 2-3 things in parallel:

- one or two of the brushed motors (probably main) is bad and consumes too much power: To be on the safe side for a test you would have to replace both (later, if successful, you can check the old tail motor again separately)

- 1.25 PicoBlade connector is not good anymore (should not be the case after 30 flight)

- First try other lipo brand with 220mah 45C where the feather of the plug goes harder into the connector and holds a bit better:
Tattu (45C) or Yuki Model Brainergy (45C).

This solved my problems on the Blade Inductrix and early LVC kicking in when I tried to use stock 150mah 25C (no, not the higher 45C and not 200mah) E-Flite lipos.
And I did not touch the 1.25 PicoBlade connector.
The Blade InductrixSwitch board works completely different (better) and does not give me those early LVC issues, even on the bad E-flite 150mah 25C lipos where the original Inductrix board just shuts off way too early or in mid flight after 1-2 minutes without any LED blinking.
20-50 seconds really is quite short.

With bigger batteries more current is available:
220-150mah = 70mah x 45C = 3,1a

If the LVC won't shut off too early and more available current might also help a bit.
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Old 06-07-2020, 11:51 PM   #20 (permalink)
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I would have suggested to open a RMA with your dealer and send your (complete) Nano to HH to have the board replaced...and hopefully they do under warranty if this is an "out-of-the-box" issue.

I consider ~30 test flights after several weeks still brand new if you did not crash it onto the concrete or walls.


But this was BEFORE I read in one of your previous posts that you have already touched the board and tried to solder to it and your mod was not successful.
With modifications like this chances are IMHO very low that HH support will even touch it and exchange it for free under warranty (RMA).
They usually comment on EVERYTHING they can see on visual inspection like if you additionally tried to protect the servo socket with Uhu glue (soft, easy removable) on the board before a bad one soldered socket comes off.

Suggestion: Never ever change the plug on the cable end or solder to a board when a heli is brand new and gives you trouble.

I hope you can find the right mod to bridge / short circuit the LVC and hopefully no black FET has burned on this board.
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