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|03-17-2020, 10:42 AM||#1 (permalink)|
Join Date: Mar 2020
XK K110 with irangex box and fs i6x
I'm new here.. so this may be old news.. but I did some googlin' and didn't see anything that directly spoke to this topic, at least not in this kind of detail.
I see/saw some threads about fixing up a taranis using the irangex in serial mode (or any multiporotocol module I guess)... but nothing for us in the cheap-seats running flysky low-end gear.
My setup is using the irangex on a FS i6x in PPM mode (since the i6x is not openTx, and doubt it'll ever run it, serial mode is not an option).
So.. here's what I've been able to sort out: This works, after some fiddling. I am using just a stock FS i6x, normally for my planes (I'm a plane guy first, eek!).
I bought an irangex 4+ or whatever it's called on a lark to bind up to some old Blade helis (dsm2 coax stuff). That worked fine.. so I got the idea to try it on the k110 since the irangex claims to support s-fhss.
Got a k110 on 'flash sale' at banggood for.. like 62/shipped.. not horrible.
I figured this should work from reading about folks using irangex boxes on other XK products (planes).
Not gonna go into what rates and curves I'm using b/c honestly, I'm still sorting that out myself to see what I like. There are a ton of good posts here about suggestions for what curves to try.
My bigger hurdle getting this to work was to figure out wiring and what switches and assignments were needed on the i6x since, not having openTX, those posts weren't helpful to me so much... it didn't translate to my humble little FlySky box.
So, to cut to the chase.. the key bits were:
0.1) of course, goes w/out saying... start with a new/empty model config
0) in the rx setup for system, set output mode to PPM
1) still in system, set the model type to variable pitch (duh, but I didn't know at first, only ever had coax old-school stuff before).
2) in functions, reverse ch 1 and ch 4
3) in aux channels, I set ch5 to swA, ch6 shows up a 'source used' (it's on swB though.. this is the 'idle up' vs 'normal' switch).
4) assign switches: fly mode is swC (rates), Idle Mode is swB (idle-up/normal), Throttle Hold is swD.
5) gyroscope: I set this to 'off'. I dont think it matters, not that I could tell yet... my flying is horrible thus far.. the ch5 switch actually controls 6g/3d mode on the K110 and I imagine this is hard-wired in the board on the heli. I did make sure to set it off in the radio settings for both normal and 'idle-up' mode (which you get to by flipping swB while on the gyro setting screen, if you're not aware). Point being, I think the K110 is already expecting a 'signal' on this channel to be either high or low. I don't think it cares what the transmitter sends as far as percentages of gyro effect.
When you're done, go into the 'display' panel and check all your switches.. especially that ch5 (swA) one.. just make sure the graph flips sides between switch positions. If you find out during flying that the 3d vs 6g positions are not what you want, reverse that channel I guess.
Ditto for ch6, idle up.. .when you flip it to idle-up mode... you should see throttle channel display go 'up' to whatever your base-setting is for the idle-up throttle curve.
I think that's about it.. after that, things started working and I was able to get 'some' flying out of it (I can mostly hover.. and I can cut the hell out of my finger by fending the thing off when it attacked me!, lol).
Again.. still lots to experiment with as far as curves go, but these settings near as I can tell will get you set up with the switching and so on you need to control the K110. To me, that was the bigger obstacle.. just getting the switches/settings sorted out.
All of the stuff about how to bind has been covered.. but briefly again.. first time out of the box... power up K110 and then press the tiny button on the side of the receiver board. It'll go into bind mode in a sec or three. Turn on your transmitter and the irangex box and assuming you have the yellow dial on the box set to the right number .. 6 on the one I have.. and your wiring is good (see below).. it'll bind.
Gyro config on the K110.. there's a lot of really good posts/info out there on this.. read those.
Wiring: I give the following info freely and w/out warranty. If you are not good at wiring and dont know enough to be suspicious of anything you read here that may be misstated... please don't attempt this then. I didnt document as I did these mods below.. I'm going by memory.
Continue at your own risk... if something seems wrong, then seek other opinions and sources for better info. Dont fry your stuff just blindly trusting me.
To hook up an irangeX to an FS-i6x, there's some youtube vids on a channel called Drone Mesh I watched. It's not that complicated.. and you don't have to go as fancy as he did.. though if I had a 3d printer, I'd probably do what he did too.
I wound up using my simulator cable which has a short section where the trainer connector (silver 4-pin S-video looking thing) has a few inches of wire that terminates in a female 1/8" stereo jack.
Then I got a 3-channel 1/8 stereo jack + wire (you can get this off an old pair of headphones, cut off 2 or 3 feet of wire total).. has to be tip, ring, sleeve... with two black bands separating the chrome 'layers'. I'm sure you could do it with some of those 4, or 5 conductor cables too.. but why bother.. you only need the 3. I say that if only b/c my simulator cable uses a 3pin male jack to connect to this upper portion.. so I'm assuming there's a reason. The simulator port has 4 pins.
Depending on which irangex box you get, it may come with a 4-pin header... make the connections to that as the guy on the youtube channel does with the wires from the stereo jack.
Very important.. the irangex box itself has a 5-pin port in it... when you (eventually) plug the 4-pin header in.. you plug it into the top 4 ports on the irangex box... where 'top' means.. if you're looking at the irange box vertically in front of you, the antenna is facing up... the 'top' port is the highest pin-hole in that set of holes.
You need a multi-meter.. a cheap one is fine. Split and strip all 4 conductors in each of the two wires on the cut-off end of your cable (hopefully, you left a few feet of cable.. I hang the irange x box on my belt so it's not bulking up my transmitter).
The wire I was using had very fine jacketing around the conductors in each 'side' of the wire (my wire was from old headphones.. so left + right channels.. each 'main' wire has 2 conductors inside).
I had to tin the ends of these to get any conductivity for testing with the multimeter. The jacketing was very fine, and I couldn't just peel it back, so to speak. The solder burned it away and bonded to the wires inside so that I could test with the multimeter.
So then.. you have your multimeter set to some low range of resistance checking (like 200ohm scale or lower if you have it). Touch one of the meter leads to the tip on the jack and then start testing wire-ends you just prepared with tinning. When you find one that shows 0 resistance, that's continuity. Mark that sub-wire as 'tip'.
Put the meter lead on the sleeve portion of the jack (the lowest part.. near the molded plug itself where the wires come out). Test the second conductor in the wire you just found the 'tip' connection on. If this now also reads 0 ohms, you're done. This is the ground connection.
If it doesn't read 0 (or really near 0 ohms), then something is wrong in your wires.. either your tinning isn't actually working (didn't 'take'), or there's a short in the wire perhaps. You'll have to sort that out, or find another wire to to use.
The other wire + sub-leads from it are not needed. You can clip them off or tape them up or do whatever you want to tidy that up.
When you have this set up.. solder the 'tip' connection wire to the 'signal' pin on the 4-pin header.. which is the 'top' pin if holding it vertically (again, watch Drone Mesh's video for the pin assignments.. it's easier when you see it).
The ground wire then goes to the 4th pin on that header (bottom pin, vertically speaking).
The last thing to sort out, and I leave this up to you.. is power. The irangex box I got does not have internal power.. it needs 5v minimum. Some versions of this box do... if you have one that does, you're done and don't need to bother with the following stuff about 9v batteries.
Drone Mesh pulls power from the transmitter's battery power, which honestly is the cleaner way to do it. But, it requires taking the radio apart a little and soldering to it. I didn't want to do that myself if only b/c I suck at soldering and figured I'd torch my transmitter.
So, I just have a 9v battery wired to the irangex. In no way is this required.. if you have a small nimh batter pack from back in the day.. use that.. or whatever you have. It just needs to be 5V minimum ... at least, to work with the irangex box that I have (the dox with your multimodule will specify power requirements).
I did this by buying a 9v battery connection lead (you can get these at any nerd-store that sells electronic components.. or.. cut one off an old 9v powered doo-dad that's broken.. cut out as much wire as you can get with it).
Solder the positive lead (red wire on mine) to the 3rd pin on the header and solder the negative to the 4th pin (same one as you have the ground lead from the radio going to).
If your battery connector isn't using red/black wires.. then verify their polarities by connecting it to a 9V battery and testing the bare wire ends to figure out which is which.. then label the wires correctly.
Warning/Caution: What I'm suggesting here now should not be a problem AFAIK (effectively connecting ground on the 9v battery to the ground on the radio).. but if someone knows that it is a problem.. feel free to chime in.
I've been using this for a couple of weeks or so.. no issues. My thought is that since positive from 9v goes only to irangex box, then whatever power management it is doing is going to keep any voltage 'internal' to itself and not have any feedback/ground-loop issues going back to the i6x.
The possible concern here being.. I'm using 9v to power the irangex (which can be powered by up to 14v IIRC), and the radio operates at .. what .. 6 volts (4 AAs). There's a difference in potential here, no doubt.. but they're not fully connected in series or parallel.
Not an electrical engineer... this is all just experimentation. Again, if you/someone knows better.. do the 'better' thing by all means.
Now, all you gotta do is figure out how to affix the 9v to the irangex box. Tape/velcro/rubber bands work.. I leave this as an exercise to the reader
If you want to get real fancy, put a switch on the positive lead going to the 4pin header from the battery wire... so that the switch is in between the irangex box and the battery. You're just interrupting the + feed to the irangex. This will save you from letting the battery run down if you forget to disconnect it after use. Or, just be disciplined enough to unplug the 9v battery after use.
This, again, is why I say the better solution would probably be to open the radio up and pull power from it like Drone Mesh does... that way, it should be switched by the main radio switch itself (and avoids any issues using a separate battery). I didn't try it, so I can't swear to it, but it seems logical to assume that's why he did it that way.
There ya go... may be of user to 4 people ever.. but at least it's out there. Some smarter folks can now refine the process and/or point me to whoever already sorted it out better than I have attempted to do. Fully admit, I'm late to the K110 party.. this could all be super-old news.
|03-21-2020, 12:29 PM||#2 (permalink)|
Join Date: Mar 2020
tore up the motor already.. argh
Well, that sucked. I was doing some testing/tuning in the house.. did not have the canopy on.. got out of control, hit a door frame... it was not a high-impact, high-speed crash at all. But!.. it broke some of the wire-connections to the motor... the little hair-like wires that go to the stator.
Of the 4 that broke, I was actually able to solder back 3, but that 4th one would not cooperate... it broke off really 'short' and just couldn't get to it.
Already ordered a new motor.
However.. what I've been wondering is if anyone has ever tried using something like this in one of these helis:
XTI-1222 Inrunner... car motor.
It's 11K-KV and has a 1.5mm shaft.
It's twice as tall, so I'm sure it's a little heavier... but was wondering if the extra torque it must possess would help keep the headspeed more stable, for one.. and allow someone to gear up the motor to turn the disc faster still?
Maybe it would draw too much current and fry the esc?
I'm only looking at something like this as a means to attempt to avoid the issue I just had with the motor wires breaking. This inrunner motor looks fairly solid and probably low-damage risk.
Maybe my whole experience is a super-freak of an accident and it normally never happens and I'm over-thinking a 'fix'?
I do think I'm going to splat some hot-glue down into the stator windings where these wires connect to try to at least limit any potential future breakage when the replacement motor arrives.
Its just been super frustrating to have the thing basically working great with my funky FS I6X setup to have this happen from such an innocuous crash just a couple of weeks in.
This thing had previously fallen out of the sky, from 10-15 feet at least.. a dozen or more times while I was sorting out the radio setup.. outside.. into grass, but still. Most crashes were at a decent clip b/c when it gets away from me, it's usually moving pretty good.
|07-02-2020, 11:16 AM||#3 (permalink)|
Join Date: Jun 2015
that is a really freak thing, this thing is a tank, 100s of crashes and no damage, that being said, your better off practicing over grass, if I were hitting solid objects without killing the throttle first I would have a lot more damage