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250 Class Electric Helicopters 250 Class Electric Helicopters manufactured by Align, Tarot, SYMA, Airhog, Chaos, HK and similar.


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Old 09-17-2019, 05:20 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default New 300x ele servo rod way too short

Here we go again ! How can they miss this !!
All the cyclic servo rods the same length .
It shows in manual to set the three rods same length .
The ele servo is about 5mm lower than front servos so obviously to set the servo arms up at 90 the rear rod needs to be longer or the joints fall off the rod !!

Unless you sub trim the elevator servo miles off 90 degrees it not work out as the ball joints will fall off the rods .
Also from the factory both my front left / right hand thread joints have been put on upside down .
Hope I’m not gonner have to get hold of a longer rear elevator rod my self !!
Hmm another heli off Align put to one side 😞
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Old 09-17-2019, 07:26 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Can you use the recommended length for the elevator and shorten up the pitch and aileron links ?


HW.
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Old 09-17-2019, 07:45 PM   #3 (permalink)
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You can't make the ELE rod longer?
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Old 10-03-2019, 02:11 AM   #4 (permalink)
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5mm no the links will come off the rod in flight
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Old 10-08-2019, 03:18 AM   #5 (permalink)
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I give up waiting for a response from Align !!!
I set the elevator rod approx 2mm longer than standard with the new beefed up links .
Then fitted new links also in front rods and set them the correct way up not like Align did and fit them upside down .
I just wound the front ones down then with the flight controller locked at zero to level the swash off .
The links just about bottom out then on front for it to be level and all servo arms set at 90.
Not much adjustment was needed on blade grip arms to set both blades at zero .
But the manual is wrong because it’s impossible for the three rods to be the same length when the elevator servo is sitting way lower in frames .
Also the elevator rod needs to be longer and the front rods shorter .
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Old 10-09-2019, 07:36 AM   #6 (permalink)
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I would be getting a 3 rod from another manufacturer like say Oxy 3 and see if that would work
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Old 10-24-2019, 07:28 AM   #7 (permalink)
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After making mod listed above to swash rods I can not get my swash to travel level thru the entire pitch range. I am getting a lot of back ele with negative pitch. It was doing this prior to me adjusting the linkage rods. Am I missing a setup step to remove this issue in the GRS setup? Endpoints don't appear to make any difference to the grs on the bench. Is the GRS bad or is it the geometry.

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Old 12-07-2019, 12:53 PM   #8 (permalink)
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I'm in the process of setting up my 300, and I'm at the same blockade. Anyone have a simple cure?
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Old 12-08-2019, 11:34 AM   #9 (permalink)
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I set my 300x up to the book (Beast X), did not adjust any link rods........flies perfectly. What I noticed was while sitting on the skids the swash 90* to the main shaft, but if I raised the front end up (with a bubble level on the boom), seeing level, the swash now dips from negative elevator making it "an unlevel swash". These things are mad by the thousands, this cannot be a mistake on ALIGN's part, so many are flying them including rtf without a mention. Anyway, glad I'm moving forward and tuning it for 3D. Btw, its a nice helicopter, impressive 3S power.
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Old 02-20-2020, 07:11 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Has anyone found an aftermarket or different brand link that fits?

Can't believe Align didn't notice the swash can't be levelled with 90 servo arms. the ele servo is 2.5mm lower than the Ail/pit servos, so the link should be 2.5mm longer, e.g. 20.5mm.

EDIT: I've ordered some M1.4 threaded rod to make a 20.5mm link. How annoying.

Last edited by xJoe; 02-21-2020 at 06:01 AM..
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Old 02-21-2020, 06:00 AM   #11 (permalink)
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I emailed Align support yesterday and told them the linkage rod was 2.5mm too short and that it should be 20.5mm for the elevator.

Here is the reply from Align:

Quote:
Queena Zeng - ALIGN <[email protected]>
Fri 2020-02-21 6:26 AM
Hi Joe,

Thanks for your e-mail and support.

Basically, there is no problem for the length of likage rod of servo because the length is adjustable based on pilot needs or when tracking is off while flight. Please refer to the manual as below image and try again.
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Old 04-21-2020, 03:17 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Yes, I found the same problem. How perplexing! Not the sort of thing one expects from Align. At least my Ail pushrods were the right way up!
I wound the Elev ball links out as far as I could without risking them coming off, repositioned the servo arm on the spline and shortened the front two Ail links slightly.
I just can't understand why the Elev servo is mounted lower in the frame than the other two servos. Mystifying!
Flying it with a Spirit 2 FBL. Switched to Spirit 2 Gov, but wondering what head speed to use? Currently using 3800 RPM but seems too wafly.
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Old 05-04-2020, 10:48 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tonyd View Post
Flying it with a Spirit 2 FBL.

Run the BEC test. Mine fails.Be careful with the Align servos and ESC, it appears to be under-rated for the servos.
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Old 06-27-2020, 09:38 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Surely this can't be true, but do you think align intends for the heli to be tipped forward in hover? IE sit it on the skids and then level the swash, which would obviously cause the rear of the swash to sit lower. This seems like a REAL far-out-there thought as the swash would not be at 90 degrees to main shaft. There must be something we are missing here.

I would give 'em a C- on the entire head assembly. difficult to get pitch to zero. Impossible to level swash. Feathering shaft bends if you break wind. DFC linkage screws are not very strong and will bend. Does look nice, but a lack of planning somewhere. I'd like to see, by default, that the linkages are all adjusted in the center of their travel, with everything very close to desired settings (level swash, zero pitch when servo is at 90, etc...
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Old 06-28-2020, 12:49 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Does nobody have a RTF version to compare how it is set up in the factory, surely they just assemble a kit, no difference in any parts?
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Old 06-28-2020, 11:37 PM   #16 (permalink)
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300x swash setup thread has some useful info on this topic. To summarize, I was having trouble getting 90 at mid stick. Also the elevator arm thing...

What worked for me was to cut, with a Dremel, the dfc links as well as the aileron and pitch links. I cut 3mm from the ail and pitch links and around 2.5mm from the dfc links. This lowered the swash by around 3mm and allowed me to get 90 at mid stick. I also had to move 2 holes in on the servo arms. Then adjusted arms for level swash and 90 mid stick. The result, for me, was a perfectly level swash, 90 at mid stick and a pitch range of about 12.5-12.5.

Your mileage may vary.

Jay.
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Old 06-29-2020, 12:09 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Mine WAS RTF. The linkage problem is there. In addition, two of three swash links were installed upside down. Not a big deal if you notice, but a silly mistake by the factory.

Jayrat... about your changes.

The DFC link I think I understand, I had thought about that as well. I assume your change is just a snip off the link end, 3mm long? Does that leave enough internal threads or did you also trim the end of the link rod that screws into that?

For the link rods, you said 3mm. I presume 1.5mm from each end? I'm not sure I follow since I already have the front two links all the way tight. Am I not following what you mean??

BTW, on a slightly different topic. I had written about the tail rotor servo running what to me felt unusually hot. Was flying this afternoon, just pulled up into a 2' hover and the thing makes a mad dash left. Managed to level and land without hurting anything. Assumed a ball link had popped off. Nope, servos were going crazy (all 3 on the swash). powered off and on, same effect. Decided to check everything without the gyros getting so involved so I turned gain down to zero. Powered up. all quiet. Tried the cyclic servos and all was well. Ditto for throttle (same servos obviously). But when I touched the rudder things went ape. Powered off, back on, same thing. Unplugged rudder servo and all was well (obviously not flyable, but not jittering either). I found another to replace it with at local hobby store. Back to normal flight.

I presume the thing was burning so much power it was browning out everything. When I touched the rudder control, sometimes it would quiet down, and I could see the s.bus receiver start blinking and go solid, like it had just been powered up. Not sure if Align has any warranty on this stuff, I contacted amain since that's where I bought it.

Be interesting to see if this one runs hot. If so, I might start hunting new servos period.
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Old 06-29-2020, 12:56 AM   #18 (permalink)
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Yep. 2.5mm off one end of the dfc linkage rod. I just removed the plastic ball end and ground a few threads off of the linkage rod. All the while making sure to leave enough threads to grab the ball link end securely.

The swash links I did as you mentioned. Removed both ball link ends and ground about 1.5mm from each side of the linkage rod. This way I was able to tighten the ball link ends a little more. The end result is a shorter link. If you tighten too much without cutting down the rod, the end of the rod pierces the link end and interferes with the ball. I used a cut off wheel and a Dremel.

Removing a bit of the ball link ends to shorten the links will not work. I did try. The rod end will still bottom out in the link end before reaching the length required.

Jay.

Last edited by jayrat; 06-29-2020 at 09:27 PM..
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Old 06-29-2020, 11:12 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Thanks. On my to-do list for tomorrow or Wednesday...
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