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250 Class Electric Helicopters 250 Class Electric Helicopters manufactured by Align, Tarot, SYMA, Airhog, Chaos, HK and similar.


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Old 07-12-2020, 07:26 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Align 300x, why no good?

Soo, I see a bunch of posts about the issues the new 300x has but really havnt seen any good post. You guys dont like it?

I got mine a couple of days ago. Pulled it out of the box and looked it over. Neat little bird. I was looking for a small bird to fly in the back yard or the lot next door. My mini ikon2 hasnt showed up yet so I threw a normal ikon2 in there. Yes,it just fits. I plugged a srlx rx in and started setting up. Yup, I have the same size links for the swash when one is suppose to be longer. I just tighten the front 2 links a bit and lengthen the back one some. my arms are close to level with a level swash at zero but not dead on. This bird is so small and the resolution on the servos is notchy at best so I dont notice anything weird in flight. It rolls,loops and piroflips consistently and clean in all directions.

My main shaft didnt have any up/down play when I got it but now I have a few flights on it I noticed it has a good amount of slop. I had to laugh when I saw the screw threads in the bottom of the main shaft. Well, the screw was a little loose so I took it out, wiped off the washer and the end of the shaft and screwed it back on. I have a tiny bit of up/down but thats perfectly acceptable. I guess if you have too much play then you could file the bottom of the main shaft a little at a time till you end up with the gap you want. My shaft does not easily slide up and down in the main bearings but Im not bothering to lossen up the frame and square it up to see what the issue is.

The last couple times Ive played with a gov on an electric (i fly mostly nitro) ive had tail wags so i just run a flat throttle curve. I did try a v curve but could hear the head speeding up on full collective punch outs so im flat now. The only thing I did to the speedo is calibrate it to the tx. What ever it was set to from the factory is what im flying.

I have 2 glacier 30c 1300 3cell packs ive had for over 5 yrs. They only had maybe 10 cycles on them when I stopped flying planes and they have been sitting since. One is still good but the other lost a cell. My ikon says 70 throttle is 3600, 75 is 3800ish and 80 is rt at 4000 head speed. I like 3800 for general flying and soft 3d. I use about 750mah in 3:30 mins. The drive train is a little warm and servos are cold afterward. Im runing some where around 12 degs collective and 10 cyclic. With 4000 on the head tic tocs are a lot cleaner and collective stops are similar to a 3cell 325 machine. If you want to smack this heli then you probly want 85 throttle witch should be around 4200rpm. It really sings at 4000 and 12 degs thow. Good stops and great speed threw maneuvers. Going to fly that speed today to see how it likes it. Probly should find a bigger spot to fly before I turn it up. lol.

So far im liking it. Good size,power,stablitly. Its a bit over weight I think but that does add to the stability when hovering around in the back yard. My 250 moves around alot more then the 300 when im doing orientation work
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Old 07-12-2020, 01:11 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I just got a flight in at 4300 rpm (85 throttle) and 11 degs, now thats fun. Tic tocs on command with out issue, still pretty groovy, not twitchy. Floats better in piroflips. The drive train didnt feel any warmer then it did after the last flight so still in the sweet spot.

I have stunt 1 setup for back yard orientation work, 3800 rpm (75 thr) and 12 degs, nice and smooth, quiet, good run time, still has enough power to flip over and do inverted stuff, shallow funnels and easy piroflips.

stunt2 is 4300 rpm (85 thr) and 11 degs. tic tocs, rainbows, true funnels, etc. The disk is a lot more responsive to collective and has a pretty good chunk more speed also so, this is only used on bigger flying spots.

I ordered some packs, hopfully they get here before I kill this one by cycling it to much in a day.

Maybe later I will try a 90 throttle curve and see what happens.
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Old 07-12-2020, 10:18 PM   #3 (permalink)
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One quick note. There are spacers you can use. If you remove the main shaft, you will find, in order, a flange welded to the shaft that limits the depth it will seat. A thin (0.1mm I think) spacer. Then the upper and lower bearings that are mounted in the frame. Right below that is a 1.0mm spacer followed by the gear set. Then the washer and screw you mentioned.

Mine has zero play in that configuration. But you could add a spacer or two on top to remove all slop if you have any. I can't feel anything at all on mine pulling up and pushing down.

BTW I think it is great. Has a couple of linkage warts, but otherwise seems really solid to me overall.
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Old 11-02-2020, 04:32 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Deadpony View Post
Soo, I see a bunch of posts about the issues the new 300x has but really havnt seen any good post. You guys dont like it?

I got mine a couple of days ago. Pulled it out of the box and looked it over. Neat little bird. I was looking for a small bird to fly in the back yard or the lot next door. My mini ikon2 hasnt showed up yet so I threw a normal ikon2 in there. Yes,it just fits. I plugged a srlx rx in and started setting up. Yup, I have the same size links for the swash when one is suppose to be longer. I just tighten the front 2 links a bit and lengthen the back one some. my arms are close to level with a level swash at zero but not dead on. This bird is so small and the resolution on the servos is notchy at best so I dont notice anything weird in flight. It rolls,loops and piroflips consistently and clean in all directions.

My main shaft didnt have any up/down play when I got it but now I have a few flights on it I noticed it has a good amount of slop. I had to laugh when I saw the screw threads in the bottom of the main shaft. Well, the screw was a little loose so I took it out, wiped off the washer and the end of the shaft and screwed it back on. I have a tiny bit of up/down but thats perfectly acceptable. I guess if you have too much play then you could file the bottom of the main shaft a little at a time till you end up with the gap you want. My shaft does not easily slide up and down in the main bearings but Im not bothering to lossen up the frame and square it up to see what the issue is.

The last couple times Ive played with a gov on an electric (i fly mostly nitro) ive had tail wags so i just run a flat throttle curve. I did try a v curve but could hear the head speeding up on full collective punch outs so im flat now. The only thing I did to the speedo is calibrate it to the tx. What ever it was set to from the factory is what im flying.

I have 2 glacier 30c 1300 3cell packs ive had for over 5 yrs. They only had maybe 10 cycles on them when I stopped flying planes and they have been sitting since. One is still good but the other lost a cell. My ikon says 70 throttle is 3600, 75 is 3800ish and 80 is rt at 4000 head speed. I like 3800 for general flying and soft 3d. I use about 750mah in 3:30 mins. The drive train is a little warm and servos are cold afterward. Im runing some where around 12 degs collective and 10 cyclic. With 4000 on the head tic tocs are a lot cleaner and collective stops are similar to a 3cell 325 machine. If you want to smack this heli then you probly want 85 throttle witch should be around 4200rpm. It really sings at 4000 and 12 degs thow. Good stops and great speed threw maneuvers. Going to fly that speed today to see how it likes it. Probly should find a bigger spot to fly before I turn it up. lol.

So far im liking it. Good size,power,stablitly. Its a bit over weight I think but that does add to the stability when hovering around in the back yard. My 250 moves around alot more then the 300 when im doing orientation work

I like the Ikon 2 installed because I think the MiniGRS the heli came with is just a piece of c*ap. I am also planning to use Ikon2 but want to ask a question on fitting. Looking at the picture the Ikon2 is pretty much jammed in the compartment and I always thought that it should be just supported by the foam tape to allow compensation for the vibration. Since it is touching the walls..., does it fly well? Does the Ikon2 respond properly? I am flying only 55% of throttle (cca. 2780rpm) lower rpm then preset (65%) on A10. I noticed, even though my blades are perfectly balanced the heli tends to shake a bit at lower rpms. At 65% of throttle the shaking almost disappears, but it is too quick for me, I just bought it recently.
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Old 11-03-2020, 02:44 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arnika View Post
I like the Ikon 2 installed because I think the MiniGRS the heli came with is just a piece of c*ap. I am also planning to use Ikon2 but want to ask a question on fitting. Looking at the picture the Ikon2 is pretty much jammed in the compartment and I always thought that it should be just supported by the foam tape to allow compensation for the vibration. Since it is touching the walls..., does it fly well? Does the Ikon2 respond properly? I am flying only 55% of throttle (cca. 2780rpm) lower rpm then preset (65%) on A10. I noticed, even though my blades are perfectly balanced the heli tends to shake a bit at lower rpms. At 65% of throttle the shaking almost disappears, but it is too quick for me, I just bought it recently.
The ikon2 clears the frame rails. Looks like its touching but its not.

Align helis come with really hard dampers in the head. If your to slow of a head speed for the damper you get a head shake. If you want to run that low then get some softer dampers and you will be fine.
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Old 11-03-2020, 04:20 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Interesting. I will see if I can find different rubber dampers other than those normally in stock. But still, everything is perfectly centered and balanced so it shouldn't shake (vibrate). What makes the vibrations? Air flow around the heli?
Thanks a lot.
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