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Engines and Mufflers Having problems or need advice on Engines or Mufflers?


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Old 10-23-2020, 10:06 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Winterizing

Watched the Nick Maxwell winterizing video about ATF and the bearing, but there seems to be disagreement about leaving fuel in the tank for the winter. Some people say it can break down the felt on the clunk or be bad for the fuel system in some way. Others say that keeping some fuel in there is good for the tank seals so that they don't dry out.

I guess the breaking down the clunk seems a bit suspect to me because there's always some fuel on it all the time after you fill the tank the first time and why on earth would manufacturers use a material that can be broken down by the fuel that they are intended to be submerged in.

Thoughts? Anything else besides the ATF on the bearing that I should do?
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Old 10-23-2020, 04:11 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Personally (no science involved)...
The steps necessary for prep'ing the engine for storage during the winter kind of depend on the environment it is being stored in.
Winter in WI is going to be low humidity (Oct 31 to March is 0%), so I wouldn't expect rust to be much of a problem if it is being stored in an un-heated garage or basement.
If it is being stored inside the house, humidity could be a consideration.
But, if you are using a top-tier fuel that contains >20% synthetic lube, rust inside the engine shouldn't be a problem due to the residual oil left in the engine after the last run of the year.
But, I live in NoCal and everything lives in the unheated garage all year 'round. And rust has never been a problem (I use Byron's Fuel).

But, rather than ATF, use the oil left over after you evaporate a bowl of fuel. I will take 8oz or so and let it sit for a week in a bowl and stir it once in a while to let the nitro and alcohol evaporate out. You can use a low temperature hair dryer to speed it up - but don't let it catch on fire (lol).
What's left is pure synthetic lube that is 100% compatible with all the parts in a modern OS / YS motor without having to worry about the silicon parts in the carb and 1-way check valve. I keep a bottle of it on my bench as an assembly lube for a motor rebuild.

As for the MOAS - I never keep fuel in any of the tanks between flying sessions. All of them use the Lynx MOAS or the SAB "MOAS-like" foam clunk.
The longest I've gone between flying sessions is 6 months. The MOAS never degraded and always looked fine. I have spare foam socks hanging in their packages on the wall and I can't remember the last time I had to replace one.
I also run the Align in-line T-shaped fuel filter. I've never seen any foam particles in the filter.
If there are particles of degraded foam in the fuel and they are small enough to get through that filter, they are also small enough to get through the carb.
And, if they are getting through the carb, I never seen weird residue on the glowplug or exhaust header to indicate some kind of contaminate was being burned by the motor.
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Last edited by ticedoff8; 10-23-2020 at 04:24 PM..
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Old 10-23-2020, 07:22 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I like the idea of evaporating off the nitro to get the oil.
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Old 10-27-2020, 09:38 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JWeber View Post
I like the idea of evaporating off the nitro to get the oil.
Completely agree, and have heard of this being done, but is there a cheaper way to get the needed oil?

Nitro fuel is already very expensive and there should be a simpler/more cost effective way to get the needed oil.
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Old 10-27-2020, 11:13 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JWeber View Post
Watched the Nick Maxwell winterizing video about ATF and the bearing, but there seems to be disagreement about leaving fuel in the tank for the winter. Some people say it can break down the felt on the clunk or be bad for the fuel system in some way. Others say that keeping some fuel in there is good for the tank seals so that they don't dry out.

I guess the breaking down the clunk seems a bit suspect to me because there's always some fuel on it all the time after you fill the tank the first time and why on earth would manufacturers use a material that can be broken down by the fuel that they are intended to be submerged in.

Thoughts? Anything else besides the ATF on the bearing that I should do?
I'll add my own experience on this.

During flying season I may fly my nitro helis every weekend, or may only fly once a month. I make sure to run the fuel out of the engine when I'm done for the day. At the end of the flying season, I do the Nick Maxwell ATF fluid trick. A full quart of full syn ATF fluid costs less than $10 and will last me for a very long time.

Helis are stored inside. Based on the above, my rear bearings are lasting two years before needing replacement.
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