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Old 03-21-2021, 11:01 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Vintage clear canopies

I'm wondering if these are like the clear lexan surface bodies that are painted from the inside. I dont remember what I used "back in the day" if it is what I need to use.

I also don't remember what glue to use to join the halves together.

Any help would be appreciated.
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Old 03-21-2021, 11:26 AM   #2 (permalink)
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My Schluter helicopters, I left a 3MM flange, and wicked CA glue into the seam. A crap ton of binder clips held everything together until the glue cured.
For paint, I used urethane based product for fuel resistance.


HW.
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Old 03-21-2021, 11:32 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Depending on your painting expertise its better to paint the inside

A lot of people back in the day used "shoe goo" glue to join the halves together
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Old 03-21-2021, 11:36 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Heliwhisperer is correct but in reality, none of the vintage canopies were actually Lexan like the RCcar guys use. They were various forms of poly such as PETG and other european vinyl derivatives, none of which are as impact resistant as actual Lexan. The method he described was probably the most widely used but there are other alternatives that resulted in a little more impact resistance [some even able to spit apart on impact allowing them to be bonded back together]. These alternative methods were: A. pre-trim and paint the halves inside, then bond then together with clear silicone glue using the fine sized nozzle or B. glue the two halves together first with polyurethane glue like ShooGoo, Goop, or any of the industrial/craft derivatives like E6000, then paint as normal on the outside. At least with either of these, there was no chance of clouding or damage from overuns of CA. Also, CA seemed to create a certain brittleness in the plastic or at least that was the perception after crashes. In any of these cases, it's very helpful to make small reinforcements from scrap material to brace the joint wherever possible.
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Old 03-21-2021, 11:47 AM   #5 (permalink)
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So its a GMP Cobra canopy and I'm doing a complete restoration. I've spent a lot of time on it already and still have much to do. It will be shelf queen for sure.
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Old 03-21-2021, 11:04 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Corvette & Copter Guy View Post
I've spent a lot of time on it already and still have much to do. It will be shelf queen for sure.
Nooooooo. They’re meant to fly, they want to fly. This one will when finished.
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Old 03-22-2021, 06:02 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I hear ya, but I have zero interest in flying nitro. I have flown them and they just don't do anything for me.
It will be flight capable other than gyro, rx pack. I do have the old Futaba servos, but would like to use newer ones but not wanting to spend a lot.
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Old 03-23-2021, 02:37 AM   #8 (permalink)
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I really wish they'd go back to HDPE (aka "milk jug plastic") canopies, with flame treatment they can be painted (that's how they get labels to adhere to milk jugs) and they are far, far more durable than fiberglass.
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Old 03-23-2021, 08:47 AM   #9 (permalink)
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I do have the old Futaba servos, but would like to use newer ones but not wanting to spend a lot.

https://www.promodeler.com

I installed standard DS130's. Digital, All metal gear train, little on the heavy side though. Plenty powerful for fly-barred.
35 bucks.
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Old 03-23-2021, 03:50 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by douflytoo View Post
https://www.promodeler.com

I installed standard DS130's. Digital, All metal gear train, little on the heavy side though. Plenty powerful for fly-barred.
35 bucks.

I would have shelled out the extra $10 for the DS140.


https://www.promodeler.com/DS140DLHV

Nice thing about Promodeler servos is they can actually be fixed, you can ship them back for repair if they get damaged in a crash and you get a good as new servo for much less than the cost of a brand new one. Even a complete motor and PCB replacement costs about half what a new servo does on their higher end stuff e.g. $109 for a new servo vs $70 to replace the motor and PCB. The price difference for a full internal swasp is less on the less expensive servos but with those you can also have only the motor or the PCB replaced due to how the motor isn't direct soldered to the board like it is with the brushless servos.
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Old 03-23-2021, 08:15 PM   #11 (permalink)
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I would have shelled out the extra $10 for the DS140.
Ha, ya the 140s are a bit faster but not needed. Considering the originals were JR 501s with only a mere (ugh!) 43 IN/OZ. of torque I think I'll be fine. Saved a little more by running DS90 on throttle.
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Old 03-24-2021, 11:38 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Darren,
I did MANY of those canopies. probably several dozen. I used CA, shoe goo, something that was like uhu-por (don't remember the name, was in the 80's), silicone. All worked fine except of course CA would cloud things and you'd have to paint on the outside. If I were to do one of those now I'd use uhu-por or if I didn't have any then shoe goo. Get lots of binder clips and leave 3mm~5mm flange when you cut it out so you can clip it together to cure.
Ah the memories, messy canopy assembly, epoxying lead into wood blades and covering/balancing, dial indicating clutch shafts,.. all of which are a bit of a lost art these days, and I'm glad they are
I learned on a GMP Cobra. futaba 7FGHI, enya SS50H, gmp gyro (it made noise and you thought it was doing something but any affect was probably just in your mind).
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Old 03-24-2021, 11:48 AM   #13 (permalink)
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A few items to tend to if you ever do plan to fly it.

if you have the bearings for the frames instead of the bushings (for collective lever), best to jbweld them in. Also jbweld the components together for that collective arm, or at least red locktite (not the bolts but the plates and posts they attach to).

Make sure the clutch shaft is dial indicated straight,.. like within a thousandth, or it will shake like a dog sh!!tting razor blades.

Make extra wooden disks to support the drivewire tube in the tailboom and LIBERALLY grease the drive wire when you insert it.

Most importantly,.. DO NOT use a modern gyro. You need a non-aggressive rate gyro for the tail like an old 154, along with a slow servo, not a modern tail servo . Otherwise the drivewire will snap easily. No, the tail won't hold very well but they never did with the wire driveshaft.
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Old 03-24-2021, 12:02 PM   #14 (permalink)
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gwright,

Your advice is excellent!

JB Weld (the 24 hour stuff)-especially on the collective levers to the transverse shaft and collective lever bushings!
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Old 03-24-2021, 12:27 PM   #15 (permalink)
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At work now and I think I know what parts your talking about. It does have bearings on the main frames. Maybe bushings on the levers. Its been a while since I've worked on it.

I just happen to find a NEW canopy on ebay. So now I have more incentive to get back on it.
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Old 03-24-2021, 10:39 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Corvette & Copter Guy View Post
I just happen to find a NEW canopy on ebay. So now I have more incentive to get back on it.
Was wondering who was gonna shell-out 75 bucks for that canopy!

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Old 03-24-2021, 10:49 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Ah Clem View Post
gwright,

Your advice is excellent!

JB Weld (the 24 hour stuff)-especially on the collective levers to the transverse shaft and collective lever bushings!
Just wondering why JB Weld? The collective levers are keyed to the transverse shaft. Will they still work loose?

Sorry C&CG to hijack your canopy thread, but this has turned into a full GMP Cobra discussion since we seem to both be working on one.

Dave
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Old 03-24-2021, 11:56 PM   #18 (permalink)
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"Just wondering why JB Weld? The collective levers are keyed to the transverse shaft. Will they still work loose?"

Great question!

The answer is yes-they work loose fairly rapidly (the keyways wear).

The first thing to go is the bushings in the sheet aluminum mounts. They wallow out the holes in the aluminum and the collective gets sloppy.
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Old 03-25-2021, 03:25 AM   #19 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by douflytoo View Post
Just wondering why JB Weld? The collective levers are keyed to the transverse shaft. Will they still work loose?

Sorry C&CG to hijack your canopy thread, but this has turned into a full GMP Cobra discussion since we seem to both be working on one.

Dave
All good. I'm looking forward to many posts. Might help others who have one on the shelf also. Im still looking for a fan shroud. I can use mine, but it sure won't be as pretty as the rest of the restoration.
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Old 03-25-2021, 09:27 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ah Clem View Post
"Just wondering why JB Weld? The collective levers are keyed to the transverse shaft. Will they still work loose?"

Great question!

The answer is yes-they work loose fairly rapidly (the keyways wear).

The first thing to go is the bushings in the sheet aluminum mounts. They wallow out the holes in the aluminum and the collective gets sloppy.
Already have ball bearings for shaft epoxied to main frames. Will have to JB the levers. Aww crud...disassembly!
Also running .078" drive wire for tail.

C&CG, maybe should retitle thread so others might jump in?

Thanks guys,
Dave
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