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Old 03-25-2021, 12:20 PM   #21 (permalink)
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I was going to start a build thread when I was further along. Do you have pics of what you did?
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Old 03-25-2021, 05:15 PM   #22 (permalink)
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I do have some pics, but only after I started re-assembly.
No "before" pics.
I'm also doing a "Hughes 300" rebuild as well.
Dave
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Old 03-25-2021, 06:07 PM   #23 (permalink)
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You know the rules....you can't say you have pics and not post them. Lol.
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Old 03-25-2021, 06:43 PM   #24 (permalink)
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In reference to OP's original question, I've use both CA and Shoo-Goo. CA works well but it cracks and smokes. Depending on how you paint the canopy, that can be a problem. I prefer Shoo-Goo. Shoo-Goo requires you really clean the surfaces to be bonded or it will loosen over time.
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Old 03-26-2021, 01:28 AM   #25 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Corvette & Copter Guy View Post
You know the rules....you can't say you have pics and not post them. Lol.

Fair enough, (though all my pics were on my phone and thats a pain to write a longer post)...

A little history,
I bought this Cobra brand new in 1987 when still in high school. I didn't start flying it until after finishing A&P school in 1989/90. It's been crashed once, but that was just a low level roll-over when I was learning. Through multiple moves, career and life the Cobra was closeted from about the mid 90's. (It's always been stored inside, I knew one day I would get back to it).

Pic 1 shows main frame. The frames had some scratches and tool marks on them so to hide those a bit I decided to "jewel" the frames with a scotchbrite disc and my drill press. Looks cool when the light shines off it.

If you look close at the bottom flange you can see a crack started and stop-drilled (actually on both sides). Pic 2 shows the alum. angles I used to make a doubler to add some strength to that area and hopefully prevent further cracking.

Pic 3 is canopy no. 2 in this birds lifetime, still in excellent condition. You can see what 25 years does to Pactra Formula-U Gloss Clearcoat (that's not the lighting, it's actually how yellow it turned). It got a complete sanding, some fiber-glass reinforcement inside, new primer, base coats and trim. Need to finish pinstriping, then clearcoat with 2K Gloss this time.

Pic 4 is Eng.(O.S. 45FSR-H), fan, clutch assy. The 45 got new bearings and cleaned up a little. It really didn't have that much run time on it and compression is still very good.The flywheel and clutch bell got polished (and some other parts too). You can see in another thread the assy. getting the dial indicator treatment. Was able to get flywheel/clutch base below .001' and tip of start shaft about .0015".

Pic 5. You have to admit, even though it's a Forty year-old design, that's a damn good lookin' rotorhead.

Pic 6. My brand new Pro-Modeler Servos and some freebies from them. Thanks to John Beech.

Pic 7 is refinished original wood servo tray and new fabricated gyro mount.

I replaced the mainshaft and start shaft bearings, all others were in good condition and got cleaned and re-lubed.

That's it for now...

Dave
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Old 03-26-2021, 08:24 AM   #26 (permalink)
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Very nice pics.
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Old 03-26-2021, 10:24 AM   #27 (permalink)
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Great photos!

I remember about the frames cracking at the 90 degree bend at the bottom.

I never had the Cobra, but I had a Falcon 707 and several Falcon 808's (same side frames as the Cobra's big brother, the Competitor). They used to crack and we would install aluminum plates-also with JB Weld.

I think I put them on the new side frames of two of them, but to prevent it.

Great thread!
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Old 03-26-2021, 05:30 PM   #28 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Great photos!

I remember about the frames cracking at the 90 degree bend at the bottom.

I never had the Cobra, but I had a Falcon 707 and several Falcon 808's (same side frames as the Cobra's big brother, the Competitor). They used to crack and we would install aluminum plates-also with JB Weld.

I think I put them on the new side frames of two of them, but to prevent it.

Great thread!

Thanks guys.
Ya, I've always felt the 90* bends were way too tight for that thickness alum. You can see the stress on the bends even when brand new.

I also have a Competitor awaiting rebuild. Recently I got a used airframe on FB Garage Sale locally. I needed a right side frame for the rebuild. After I got it home and looked closer, it turned out to be a Falcon 888. When compared to the Competitor, the Falcon actually has better options. While I think the GMP servo "layout" is better, the Falcon all metal, fully adjustable servo mount is more user friendly. The collective levers are fully ball-raced, as are the parallel metal roll/pitch levers. It also has the tail speed-up drive which runs off the main teeth on main gear, not the spiral drive. Also has the multi-piece flybar seesaw with side mounted balls on the mixer levers. Was it you Clem that said JG was trying to keep the build simpler on the Competitor?

Dave
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Old 03-26-2021, 11:47 PM   #29 (permalink)
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Dave,

Yes, I was the one who said that.

He was concerned that the "I" levers and additional linkage would be too cumbersome for the general public. He also though the Falcons were too bulky and wanted to streamline them and make them lighter (although I disagreed at the time, I think he was right about some of this, in retrospect-he was a brilliant individual).

There were multiple versions of the Falcons. The 808 was the first one to have the machined yoke with zero coning angle. It still had plastic "I" and "L" levers with brass bushings. The 808 EX had the upgraded head with the ball bearing Bell/Hilller mixing levers, and ball raced "I" and "L" levers. If I recall correctly, both had the sheet metal angle bracket for the collective which had an unpleasant tendency to break in flight as it fatigued. John Gorham removed the additional collective bellcrank in his re-design.

The "I" levers maintained the swashplate trim as the swasplate was raised and lowered. Later on, GMP offered them as an upgrade (with the inverted from the Hirobo version). That way, everything fit under the much smaller Competitor canopy.

I think that the 888 was the first one to have the tail speed up unit as a stock item. I added it to both my 808's and to my 808 EX. You could also get a machined spiral gear and matching pinion and tail speed up unit. I think these were Delrin (some were white, some black).
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Old 03-27-2021, 09:27 AM   #30 (permalink)
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The canopy is in my hands. It was already glued together. It's not cloudy so I'm guessing it was a goo type glue.
So now what's the best method for trimming the excess center material and the rest of it?
I'm still thinking of painting it from the inside with the Dura Trax stuff from Amain.
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Old 03-27-2021, 10:30 AM   #31 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Corvette & Copter Guy View Post
The canopy is in my hands. It was already glued together. It's not cloudy so I'm guessing it was a goo type glue.
So now what's the best method for trimming the excess center material and the rest of it?
I'm still thinking of painting it from the inside with the Dura Trax stuff from Amain.
Small scissors for the bulk of it and then a Dremel with sanding drum. Put a piece of 1\8 trim tape on the outside seam and use that as a guide to trim it down with dremel.
It might be difficult to paint from inside since it's already glued together, especially if you want some kind of trim design.
Keep a fair amount of edge on the backside to strenghten and use the cut scraps for doublers on rear top and bottom seams, or fiberglass.
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Old 07-28-2021, 02:22 PM   #32 (permalink)
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C&C Guy:


Just wondering if you finished your canopy. After having completed trim work a while ago, I was finally able to get some 2K clear-cote on mine on a good weather day. Also finished tail fins with some added insignia thanks to my new "Cricut" and some photoshop work fixing the GMP and Cobra decal scans from Vintage Heli's. Not bad for a rattle-can job.


Dave
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Old 07-28-2021, 02:36 PM   #33 (permalink)
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Nice pics. I haven't even touched it. Been way to busy lately.
I also don't have any fins. I was thinking of cutting some out using yellow plastic sheet.
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Old 07-28-2021, 07:13 PM   #34 (permalink)
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Thanks C&CG,
I made my fins from .080" polystyrene sheet. A little bit thinner and not quite as stiff as the old ones. I thought sure I bought that old gray plastic at Michael's or HobbyLobby, no joy, but that was 25 years ago. Hobby shop guy did suggest plexiglass, but that stuff pretty pricey these days and didn't really want to do wood either.

Dave
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