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Old 09-24-2021, 01:11 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Just brought a Trex 500XT need a tiny bit of help please

Hi, just need a tiny bit of help here please guys.

I just brought a Trex 500XT Dominator, it came with a brand new Align BL80 ESC, however, this ESC has 2 sets of receiver cables coming out of it which are kind of confusing me, im using a Spektrum AR7200BX FBL controller with the bird.

So the first set of wires is pretty self explanatory, it goes into the throttle channel on the receiver (red/white and black)

The next set of wires is split into 2 output plugs, (yellow, orange and black) I thought these were for programming, however the instructions state one goes into the RPM channel on the FBL system, ummm I dont have an RPM channel, do I just leave this disconnected ?
the 2nd wire states to plug it into the battery channel or any unoccupied channel on the receiver, I have a few to choose from, but im probably just going to stick this into the batt / bind port, will this be OK ?

They didnt give me any greese for the parts, but all the parts came pretty much assembled, I have read though to take these apart, threadlock what needs threadlocking and greese up certain parts, ive had to order some silicone greese as like I said they didnt supply any in the kit, just a very small bottle of threadlock, thankfully I have plenty of this so able to build up the mainframe, mount the motor etc for tonight.

TIA
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Old 09-24-2021, 01:21 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I have not worked with that particular ESC, but I do have a couple others with an rpm output and it is only needed if you want to use the FBL unit governor instead of the built-in gov in the ESC.

It sounds like the other connectors are for a redundant RX power connection.
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Old 09-24-2021, 01:27 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trillian View Post
I have not worked with that particular ESC, but I do have a couple others with an rpm output and it is only needed if you want to use the FBL unit governor instead of the built-in gov in the ESC.

It sounds like the other connectors are for a redundant RX power connection.
Thanks, I'll leave it disconnected then, the other plug on that same lead it says in the instructions (B) BEC output wire, plug into the battery channel or any unoccupied channel on the receiver for better BEC power supply.

Its an Align BL80A (Hobbywing) ESC. I just went for the kit with the motor and ESC, I dont need the servos or microbeast so had those removed.

Thanks again.
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Old 09-24-2021, 02:00 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Enjoy your new TREX 500, it`s a great Heli.

I use AR8010T RX and Microbeast plus FBL.

I left the yellow wire disconnected as I don`t have RPM channel.
The second connector (red/black wires) is connected to the battery port in my AR8010T.

BTW, the second connector (the upper one in the RX picture attached) is connected to the Microbeast via SRXL port. You don`t need it of course.

I added some additional pictures for clarification (I wish I had some examples whet I built it 😊, It my first Heli ever).
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Old 09-24-2021, 02:49 PM   #5 (permalink)
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The Align BL80 ESC pretty much a rebranded Hobbywing Platinum PRO V4 - 80A... and painted red and running crippled firmware.

The yellow wire would connect to the Microbeast Plus' "gov" port and then you can use the flight controller's governor instead of the BL80's governor or simple V-shaped throttle curves - if you wanted to.
The other two wires also connect to the Microbeast Plus on any open servo port or using a Y-cable. This provides addition power to the flight controller to prevent a voltage drop to the servos when under a heavy load.

A typical J-style servo connector is good for about 4Amps. As more current flows across the pins to the flight controller, their resistance will cause the voltage to drop. And at 3.3v (around that), the flight controller will "brown out".
So, if you apply maximum collective and rudder at the same time, there might be a 10A draw from the 4 servos that lasts for a few micro / milliseconds. If there is only 1 BEC lead connected to the flight controller, a few milliseconds at 3.3v is enough to cause it to brown-out and reset.
So, HW (and other ESC) have added the 2nd lead that doubles the current capability from the BEC to the flight controller
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Old 09-24-2021, 03:54 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kodkodtiltanim View Post
Enjoy your new TREX 500, it`s a great Heli.

I use AR8010T RX and Microbeast plus FBL.

I left the yellow wire disconnected as I don`t have RPM channel.
The second connector (red/black wires) is connected to the battery port in my AR8010T.

BTW, the second connector (the upper one in the RX picture attached) is connected to the Microbeast via SRXL port. You don`t need it of course.

I added some additional pictures for clarification (I wish I had some examples whet I built it 😊, It my first Heli ever).
The picts are a great help, thanks, I dont have a separate receiver, which is why I went for the Spektrum AR7200BX, its the Microbeast and Spektrum receiver built into one, less wiring . I very nearly went for the 500X belt drive, I didnt even notice they did a torque tube version until very last min, tiny bit more expensive, but I went for that instead.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ticedoff8 View Post
The Align BL80 ESC pretty much a rebranded Hobbywing Platinum PRO V4 - 80A... and painted red and running crippled firmware.

The yellow wire would connect to the Microbeast Plus' "gov" port and then you can use the flight controller's governor instead of the BL80's governor or simple V-shaped throttle curves - if you wanted to.
The other two wires also connect to the Microbeast Plus on any open servo port or using a Y-cable. This provides addition power to the flight controller to prevent a voltage drop to the servos when under a heavy load.

A typical J-style servo connector is good for about 4Amps. As more current flows across the pins to the flight controller, their resistance will cause the voltage to drop. And at 3.3v (around that), the flight controller will "brown out".
So, if you apply maximum collective and rudder at the same time, there might be a 10A draw from the 4 servos that lasts for a few micro / milliseconds. If there is only 1 BEC lead connected to the flight controller, a few milliseconds at 3.3v is enough to cause it to brown-out and reset.
So, HW (and other ESC) have added the 2nd lead that doubles the current capability from the BEC to the flight controller
Thats great thanks, so there is no harm in me plugging in the 2nd cable with the 2 wires on it to the AR7200 as well as the normal one which goes into the throttle port.
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Old 09-24-2021, 09:18 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I also have a 500XT combo with the 80 "A" ESC on the way. I am planning on using an 8010T as well. I am excited about the new build. I understand that the brown truck may have it for me tomorrow....Yours looks great and has me more excited than ever!

I am glad to see that the 5.xx.xx firmware has corrected the compatibility issues with the 8010T SXRL. With that said, I was planning on just wiring it as a conventional separate receiver. I am not sure if there is any logic to it other than I am used to wiring the BeastX that way. I am a bit older than most. I was also planning on using the added BEC output to "spread the love" to the 8010T. Any advantage to using SXRL? I am planning on using Gov Store in the ESC either way.

Would be nice to hear others thoughts and opinions on the SXRL vs. conventional receiver wiring. The one wire vs three isn't a big deal with the BeastX and 8010T stacked in the frame. Thoughts?
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Old 09-24-2021, 11:49 PM   #8 (permalink)
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set it up for telemetry.. ikon2/brain2

tons of logging as well
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Old 09-25-2021, 03:02 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tomd27858 View Post
I also have a 500XT combo with the 80 "A" ESC on the way. I am planning on using an 8010T as well. I am excited about the new build. I understand that the brown truck may have it for me tomorrow....Yours looks great and has me more excited than ever!

I am glad to see that the 5.xx.xx firmware has corrected the compatibility issues with the 8010T SXRL. With that said, I was planning on just wiring it as a conventional separate receiver. I am not sure if there is any logic to it other than I am used to wiring the BeastX that way. I am a bit older than most. I was also planning on using the added BEC output to "spread the love" to the 8010T. Any advantage to using SXRL? I am planning on using Gov Store in the ESC either way.

Would be nice to hear others thoughts and opinions on the SXRL vs. conventional receiver wiring. The one wire vs three isn't a big deal with the BeastX and 8010T stacked in the frame. Thoughts?
Just remember to install the 2nd bearing block upside down, nearly caught me out, especially if you are threadlocking along the way.
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Old 09-25-2021, 03:48 AM   #10 (permalink)
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I used AR8010T since I had it on the shelf unused. Otherwise I would go with AR7200BX as well.

It`s my first Heli, so I purchased top-combo for simplicity, which include the FBL unit. Otherwise I might go for IKON2. This also the reason I took belt drive version that is more forgiving when the tail blades scratch the grass...

Regarding FBL-RX wiring as I see it: SRXL = Less wiring = Less points of failure. Anyway, I hot glued all connectors and thread locked EVERY METAL to METAL bolt.
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Old 09-25-2021, 05:21 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kodkodtiltanim View Post
I used AR8010T since I had it on the shelf unused. Otherwise I would go with AR7200BX as well.

It`s my first Heli, so I purchased top-combo for simplicity, which include the FBL unit. Otherwise I might go for IKON2. This also the reason I took belt drive version that is more forgiving when the tail blades scratch the grass...

Regarding FBL-RX wiring as I see it: SRXL = Less wiring = Less points of failure. Anyway, I hot glued all connectors and thread locked EVERY METAL to METAL bolt.
This is where im at right now, cant sort the head or tail until my Grease turns up, but about to put the servos in and sort the wiring and FBL out.

PS, thanks for the picts, they were very helpful, they didnt leave much room for the motor wiring and the ESC wiring did they, especially with the pull to release battery tray button.







Quote:
Originally Posted by kodkodtiltanim View Post
thread locked EVERY METAL to METAL bolt.
Does that include the servo bolts ?

Last edited by Jamin280672; 09-25-2021 at 09:05 AM..
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Old 09-25-2021, 09:21 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
they didnt leave much room for the motor wiring and the ESC wiring did they, especially with the pull to release battery tray button.
Totally agree.

BTW, I was also surprised that there was no grease in the kit. Anaerobic Retainer (R48) was also missing, but it seems that the onw-way bearing was fairly installed in the main gear case so I didn`t reassembled it.

Except this and the ESC wiring space issue it seems excellent kit.
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Old 09-25-2021, 09:55 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Does that include the servo bolts ?
YES.
After centering and configuring FBL etc. of course.
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Old 09-25-2021, 10:13 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kodkodtiltanim View Post
Totally agree.

BTW, I was also surprised that there was no grease in the kit. Anaerobic Retainer (R48) was also missing, but it seems that the onw-way bearing was fairly installed in the main gear case so I didn`t reassembled it.

Except this and the ESC wiring space issue it seems excellent kit.
Yes my main gears were pre built too, so ive just fitted it seems quite free rolling, the swash plate I could barely move so had to grease all of that up, its nice and free now, the head was pre build and the tail section, but nothing was threadlocked or done up tight enough, so ive stripped the head and tail and rebuilt it.
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Old 09-25-2021, 05:58 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kodkodtiltanim View Post
YES.
After centering and configuring FBL etc. of course.
Does this look about right to you, I just have the tail gear box to sort now, the FBL is programmed for the main head, ive just got to run though it again for the tail parts, but the servo arm for the tail is mighty close to fouling on the tail drive gear box.

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Old 09-25-2021, 10:27 PM   #16 (permalink)
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This has turned out to be a great thread. Thanks for sharing and the pictures.

If the servo arm is contacting the tail case, you may have to dremel a bit off of the case so the arm will clear. For some reason, I think I read that this was something that needed to be addressed during the build.

Everything is looking good!
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Old 09-26-2021, 03:37 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tomd27858 View Post
This has turned out to be a great thread. Thanks for sharing and the pictures.

If the servo arm is contacting the tail case, you may have to dremel a bit off of the case so the arm will clear. For some reason, I think I read that this was something that needed to be addressed during the build.

Everything is looking good!
Thanks, I ended up moving the ball link to the inner most hole and cutting the link down, I get the perfect amount of travel without any binding or fouling of the tail casing now.

Shes basically done now, theres just a hole or two I want to drill here and there so I can cable tie wires to the inner frame, want to shorten the tail servo cable a bit, and just need to hot glue the connectors into the AR7200BX once im sure everything is right.






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Old 09-26-2021, 04:29 AM   #18 (permalink)
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Right shes all done and ready for her maiden flight, I thought id give just one last word of warning.

Make sure you unscrew the tail slider part highlighted in red from the black collar / bearing highlighted in yellow and add some threadlock to it, mine came undone itself just from spinning the mainblades by hand on the floor.

That black collar / bearing goes all the way through to the sliver slider highlighted in red, if it comes unscrewed in flight, you've lost the tail.

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Old 09-26-2021, 05:05 AM   #19 (permalink)
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I would recommend that you 'lose' the cable tie around the AR7200BX. Thin FC mounting tape is sufficient for the AR7200/7210BX and whilst they benefit from a relatively hard mounting, I think that you might run into vibration issues with the cable tie.
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Old 09-26-2021, 05:52 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cyclone7 View Post
I would recommend that you 'lose' the cable tie around the AR7200BX. Thin FC mounting tape is sufficient for the AR7200/7210BX and whilst they benefit from a relatively hard mounting, I think that you might run into vibration issues with the cable tie.
Thanks, its gone, I have it mounted with 3M 4011 tape under it too, hopefully it will hold.
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